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1927 Morris Cowley Flatnose
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badhuis



Joined: 20 Aug 2008
Posts: 1050
Location: Netherlands

PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2018 9:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have just spend an hour reading the complete topic from the first page onwards, enjoyed this a lot. Good clear pictures to accompany the story. What fantastic skills you have.
Would you mind photographing your car a bit more for us to see? Outside, interior, dash? What kind of power does the engine gives? What hp is it rated?
Thank you for sharing your experiences.
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a car stops being fun when it becomes an investment
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Posts: 6043
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2018 10:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seconded!

Peter Very Happy
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1939 SS Jaguar 2 litre saloon
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 2923
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2018 10:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have also read the entire thread and can only say how impressed I am.

My late Dad was a tool maker when he was younger and was a talented development engineer. He built the first machine for making PTFE tape and was largely responsible for spring loaded rubber lip seals that we take for granted these days. Like Miken, he too could make just about anything (although he wasn't into steam engines).

I should have followed in his footsteps and become an engineer but it never happened. This is why I tended to rely on the old man to do any machining for me and now regret not learning to do more myself. I bought a 3 1/2" centre height flat bed Drummond lathe which has come in useful but I still can't get the hang of thread cutting. No excuses. A small milling machine would be good too.

I can't read too much about the Morris and look forward to seeing some photos of the car.
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Miken



Joined: 24 Dec 2012
Posts: 250

PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2018 9:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the comments. Now having written that long story my car has promptly blown its head gasket after 2800 miles .This is most disappointing.
When I rebuilt the engine I fitted new head studs and nuts, I had the block and head joint faces machined. I have just checked them with a ground steel straight edge and my thinnest feeler gauge and the faces are definitely true to better than .0015". I tightened the nuts down several times over the miles, so im not sure what ive done wrong. I was using a torque wrench set to 35 ft/lb's.
Just took my 2 magnetos to the "Magneto guys" and the very nice man there showed me how he re-magnetises them and then let me watch him as he tested them on his old 1950's era testing machine. He declared that one was "quite good" and the other was "very Good"
I suspect that my recent starting troubles were not magneto related and the fuel soaked plugs were actually water soaked from the leaky gasket. Apparently water doesn't burn anywhere near as well as petrol.
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 2923
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2018 10:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I hope this helps. It may not be entirely relevant in as much as you are dealing with an ancient cast iron head and block. Also it doesn't say if the figures are for dry or lubricated threads.


image hosting over 5mb

Have you had the head and block crack tested?
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Miken



Joined: 24 Dec 2012
Posts: 250

PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2018 12:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ray White wrote:
I hope this helps. It may not be entirely relevant in as much as you are dealing with an ancient cast iron head and block. Also it doesn't say if the figures are for dry or lubricated threads.


image hosting over 5mb

Have you had the head and block crack tested?

Thank you Ray,
It looks like my 35 ft/lb was maybe a bit on the low side for a M12x1.5 dia stud.
No I haven't had them crack tested.
MN
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 2923
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2018 1:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As I say, tightening down an old cast-iron head like this is risky. When I tightened the Dodge head one of the studs pulled out. The last thing you want is a stripped thread in the block. The most I would take a half inch head stud or bolt to is 50 ft lbs.. probably 40 would be enough. I doubt your problem is not being tight enough - unless you forgot to nip them up after running the engine for a while.

I had a call from the machine shop when they found a deep crack in a cylinder! It needed to be lined and machined to size.


Last edited by Ray White on Fri Jun 29, 2018 2:14 pm; edited 1 time in total
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ukdave2002



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 3412
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2018 1:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unless otherwise stated torque specs are for dry treads, a lubricated thread could require up to 50% less torque depending on the lubrication, so a real risk that studs will shear if torquing lubricated threads to dry specs.

Dave
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 2923
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2018 2:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes Dave. Thank you. I failed to explain that properly. I hope I haven't given some bad advice.
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Miken



Joined: 24 Dec 2012
Posts: 250

PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2018 4:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think I'm all sorted now. I've ordered a new gasket from the owners club. They recommend 55ft/lb torque.
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bjacko



Joined: 28 Oct 2013
Posts: 118
Location: Melbourne Australia

PostPosted: Sat Jun 30, 2018 5:52 am    Post subject: Head Tightening Reply with quote

After machining the head and block make sure you have enough thread above the block or you can be thread bound instead of tightening down the head. Remember the gasket will compress too.
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Miken



Joined: 24 Dec 2012
Posts: 250

PostPosted: Sat Jun 30, 2018 7:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, I've checked and it's ok
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Miken



Joined: 24 Dec 2012
Posts: 250

PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2018 7:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This has been a disappointing end to my first year on the road with my Morris.
With the head removed it revealed severe pitting in the combustion area of the cylinder block that has damaged the valve seats in the 2 centre cylinders. This was caused by watere entering the combustion chambers.
I have had to remove and completely dismantle the engine and send the block to have new valve seats fitted. Before doing so I carried out a hydraulic pressure test of the block and head.
If interested, here is how I did the pressure test. I made some blanking plates up from some 100mmm x 50mm x 6mm alloy angle. Bolted the plates down onto silicone mastic, filled with water and looked for leaks. I didn't find any. I wasn't sure how much to pump them up to, so I took the block and head up to 50 psi which was a bit frightening .


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Miken



Joined: 24 Dec 2012
Posts: 250

PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2018 7:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

New valve seats fitted. This entailed a complete dismantling of the engine and the cylinder block sending away for a few weeks.
It all went straight back together again with a new Head gasket.
I did another hydraulic pressure test of the water jacket with it all together and all seems well.
With the engine out and being worked on, I was poking around under the car and decided that there is a lot of wear on a lot of the various chassis components. I have decide to remove the body from the chassis to have the chassis shotblasted and painted.
I dont have much room at home so to make it easier to move the body about I found a pallet and added some casters.




Last edited by Miken on Sun Sep 16, 2018 7:35 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Miken



Joined: 24 Dec 2012
Posts: 250

PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2018 7:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The holes in the leaf spring shackles are all worn oval, so I made up some steel bushes, bored the holes oversize and parallel on a vertical mill and silver soldered the new bushes in place.





filing the keyway


Last edited by Miken on Sun Sep 16, 2018 7:37 pm; edited 2 times in total
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