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Just bought a Pop 103e, 1957
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Paul fairall



Joined: 17 Nov 2016
Posts: 429
Location: North west Kent

PostPosted: Fri Aug 18, 2017 6:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mmm I'll have to look into that, may be some twin su's and manifolds for sale if that is the case. Life is busy enough without drilling new holes in the sump and welding tubes in.
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GARAGE HERMIT



Joined: 20 Mar 2017
Posts: 186
Location: stockton upon tees, cleveland,

PostPosted: Sat Sep 09, 2017 11:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

few more thing's done, fitted the SU's, old style HT lead's, radiator fan, breather catch can (cocktail shaker), dismanteled the front leaf spring's and refurbed, refurbed both front brake hub actuator's, one had no rubber shroud on, and the other side was torn, gave the brake light switch a good clean and made a gasket for it, started sorting the brake linkage's out, they are all out of adjustment and dry as a bone, the compression tube was seized solid, took two day's soaking in penetrating fluid, and a hammer and drift to free it off,, still a lot to do, but think the list is down to only four page's, lol,














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Last edited by GARAGE HERMIT on Thu Sep 20, 2018 1:09 pm; edited 6 times in total
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GARAGE HERMIT



Joined: 20 Mar 2017
Posts: 186
Location: stockton upon tees, cleveland,

PostPosted: Sat Sep 09, 2017 11:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote




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Rick
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Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 22446
Location: UK

PostPosted: Sun Sep 10, 2017 8:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the update. Is the dynamo bracket one you made or are these available? I was looking at my old Superhead the other day, and I assumed that "back in the day" you had to buy a bracket to fit the dynamo on, hanging off the side of the engine perhaps.

RJ
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Paul fairall



Joined: 17 Nov 2016
Posts: 429
Location: North west Kent

PostPosted: Sun Sep 10, 2017 9:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Coming along nicely, did you move the dipstick. I was talking to someone about it and he suggested cutting a square of metal around the dipstick so as not to disturb the brazing and weld it in the other side of the sump and then weld a pkayeplayed over the hokey or butt weld a piece in.
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GARAGE HERMIT



Joined: 20 Mar 2017
Posts: 186
Location: stockton upon tees, cleveland,

PostPosted: Sun Sep 10, 2017 2:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rick wrote:
Thanks for the update. Is the dynamo bracket one you made or are these available? I was looking at my old Superhead the other day, and I assumed that "back in the day" you had to buy a bracket to fit the dynamo on, hanging off the side of the engine perhaps.

RJ


RJ,

i made the dynamo bracket's myself, a bit of a faf on, but they worked out fine, i could have taken the easy option and bought the SFS kit (£90.), but i had the bit's of 1/4" flat bar in the garage, and i like making stuff, so i did,

free image cdn


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GARAGE HERMIT



Joined: 20 Mar 2017
Posts: 186
Location: stockton upon tees, cleveland,

PostPosted: Sun Sep 10, 2017 2:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paul fairall wrote:
Coming along nicely, did you move the dipstick. I was talking to someone about it and he suggested cutting a square of metal around the dipstick so as not to disturb the brazing and weld it in the other side of the sump and then weld a pkayeplayed over the hokey or butt weld a piece in.


sorry paul, you've lost me with the "weld a pkayeplayed over the hokey or butt weld a piece in."

not moved the dipstick yet, still trying to think of another way to do it, maybe a sight tube, we'll see,
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Paul fairall



Joined: 17 Nov 2016
Posts: 429
Location: North west Kent

PostPosted: Mon Sep 11, 2017 6:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GARAGE HERMIT wrote:
Paul fairall wrote:
Coming along nicely, did you move the dipstick. I was talking to someone about it and he suggested cutting a square of metal around the dipstick so as not to disturb the brazing and weld it in the other side of the sump and then weld a pkayeplayed over the hokey or butt weld a piece in.


sorry paul, you've lost me with the "weld a pkayeplayed over the hokey or butt weld a piece in."

not moved the dipstick yet, still trying to think of another way to do it, maybe a sight tube, we'll see,
whats wrong with you, don't you understand predictive jibberish? Cut a square around the dipstick to avoid welding near the brazed in dipstick tube. It should be weld a plate over the hole where the dipstick was before. Weld the dipstick tube with its square of sump plate on the other side of the sump.
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alastairq



Joined: 14 Oct 2016
Posts: 1953
Location: East Yorkshire

PostPosted: Mon Sep 11, 2017 6:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Huge photos..nearly banged my head! Smile
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GARAGE HERMIT



Joined: 20 Mar 2017
Posts: 186
Location: stockton upon tees, cleveland,

PostPosted: Mon Sep 11, 2017 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

alastairq wrote:
Huge photos..nearly banged my head! Smile


yes, sorry, i'll have to try and reduce them, before posting, Embarassed
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Rick
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Location: UK

PostPosted: Mon Sep 11, 2017 7:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GARAGE HERMIT wrote:
alastairq wrote:
Huge photos..nearly banged my head! Smile


yes, sorry, i'll have to try and reduce them, before posting, Embarassed


Don't worry about it - I'll take any photos over no photos, more the merrier etc etc Smile

RJ
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GARAGE HERMIT



Joined: 20 Mar 2017
Posts: 186
Location: stockton upon tees, cleveland,

PostPosted: Mon Sep 11, 2017 7:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paul fairall wrote:
whats wrong with you, don't you understand predictive jibberish? Cut a square around the dipstick to avoid welding near the brazed in dipstick tube. It should be weld a plate over the hole where the dipstick was before. Weld the dipstick tube with its square of sump plate on the other side of the sump.


the original dipstick hole in the block is 3/8" unf, just screw an allen bolt in to blank it off, or, what i did was cut the D/S tube down to about an inch, then thread the I.D. of it and put an 8mm bolt in,
you'd be putting more heat into the sump welding a plate on, instead of just welding the dipstick tube on, jmpo,

ps, i think, you think the D/S is on the sump pan, original position is threded into the block,
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Paul fairall



Joined: 17 Nov 2016
Posts: 429
Location: North west Kent

PostPosted: Tue Sep 12, 2017 2:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GARAGE HERMIT wrote:
Paul fairall wrote:
whats wrong with you, don't you understand predictive jibberish? Cut a square around the dipstick to avoid welding near the brazed in dipstick tube. It should be weld a plate over the hole where the dipstick was before. Weld the dipstick tube with its square of sump plate on the other side of the sump.


the original dipstick hole in the block is 3/8" unf, just screw an allen bolt in to blank it off, or, what i did was cut the D/S tube down to about an inch, then thread the I.D. of it and put an 8mm bolt in,
you'd be putting more heat into the sump welding a plate on, instead of just welding the dipstick tube on, jmpo,

ps, i think, you think the D/S is on the sump pan, original position is threded into the block,
have to admit I haven't looked into it yet.
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GARAGE HERMIT



Joined: 20 Mar 2017
Posts: 186
Location: stockton upon tees, cleveland,

PostPosted: Sat Sep 16, 2017 7:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

instead of a dip-stick, i'm going to use a level gauge,



sump drain plug with two 1/4" x 1/2" magnet's areldite'd in, not that they needed to be glued in, just belt and braces,


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Richard H



Joined: 03 Apr 2009
Posts: 2148
Location: Lincolnshire, UK

PostPosted: Sun Sep 17, 2017 9:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That looks seriously lovely. Top work so far.
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