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Just bought a Pop 103e, 1957
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GARAGE HERMIT



Joined: 20 Mar 2017
Posts: 186
Location: stockton upon tees, cleveland,

PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2017 1:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rick wrote:
Apologies if I missed this, I'm just curious what the intended outcome after all these intriguing mods is - is it to make a "fast road" Pop using period-ish parts around the original engine? Or is it an exercise in seeing how far tuning of an E93A engine can realistically be taken with a road car?

What plans do you have regarding the rest of the running gear?

Genuinely interested!

RJ Smile


as i mentioned when i started this thread, wanted a pop for a very long time, after buying it, i found out about the period tuning gear, special's etc, and as i like messing about with engine's, modifying thing's, so, seeing as i can no longer ride motorcycle's, which i also modified, the pop went under the knife, i'd like to think the mod's i've done will pep the engine up a bit, the only mod i have'nt done to the engine is a cam, maybe in the future, the only change's to the running gear has been the fitting of 16" prefect wheel's with 175 radial tyre's, i am going to fabricate a panhard rod for the rear, plus i've a anti-roll bar i might fit, i've binned the std damper's, and have a woodhead shock set-up, front & rear, that i'll fit, i think the only other thing to mod the running gear would be to alter the diff ratio's, unless anyone can suggest more chassis mod's,?
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Paul fairall



Joined: 17 Nov 2016
Posts: 431
Location: North west Kent

PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2017 8:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you would like a fast road cam I have a new never used one you could buy.
Message me if interested.
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alastairq



Joined: 14 Oct 2016
Posts: 1168
Location: East Yorkshire

PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2017 9:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Front axle panhard rod? Goes from the spring mounting pad.

Or do you have a split front axle already?

A bit late now, I think, but...a supercharger is probably the easiest method of gaining more useful power [especially torque] from a sidevalve.

Around the WW2 period, and after, the most common supercharger offered by makers who used Ford sidevalve running gear, would probably have been the vane-type. [Shorrocks, for example?}.
These are known to be good at pumping air[& fuel] from very low revs....thinning out a bit as revs climb.
For more power/torque higher up the rev range [BHP?}...then a Roots-type blower is better...[not as good from tickover as a Shorrock, but pumps better as the revs rise].
A Shorrock type also needs an oil feed from the engine [external]...which gets burnt up, so oil consumption and exhaust smoke will increase.
Roots blowers have their own lubrication systems...peculiar to make.

Examples of modern Roots blowers I have seen on Ford sidevalves are [Eaton??] those found on moderns such as MINIs and Mercs.
Another good source of modern blowers is Japan, whose scrap yards often sell via ebay...Aisin is one good make....these are normally fitted to the small-engined {KAI?] cars such as Subarus...and can be had in sizes ranging from 350 [Cu Ft/Min?] to 500 and above...the small one suitable for engines up to around 700cc or so, the next size up best for Sidevalve Fords.]

The advantage of blowing the sidevalve engine in a Ford saloon is, the blower, and its attendant carb [1 1/2 inch SU is good enough]..., can be mounted out of the way on the right side of the engine, if needs be. Running the induction tube over the top to the manifold is OK.

We're not talking mega horsepower here....if the bottom end is good enough for twin carbs & a cam, then it's ok for blowing.

In my view, a simple blower with a relatively low pressure, is as good as twin carbs & a cam. Cost-wise, about the same...except it gives better torque from tickover..something a more 'racy' cam doesn't do [as I have found out].
Compression ratio can be standard ....as can the head. Best not to use an 8 hp head on the 10hp engine in this instance.
The blower method overcomes the one drawback of the sidevalve...it's inability to breathe via its induction.
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GARAGE HERMIT



Joined: 20 Mar 2017
Posts: 186
Location: stockton upon tees, cleveland,

PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2017 9:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

alastairq wrote:
Front axle panhard rod? Goes from the spring mounting pad.

Or do you have a split front axle already?

.


i have a bowden IFS set up, so no need for a panhard rod up front,
thank's for the info on the blower's, interesting stuff,
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GARAGE HERMIT



Joined: 20 Mar 2017
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Location: stockton upon tees, cleveland,

PostPosted: Thu Oct 12, 2017 9:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well, that was a very messy job,
took the rear leaf spring off, dont think it had been off since the car was built, spilt the leave's and used a grinder to remove the step's that were worn at the tip's of the leave's, wire brushed the rust and old hard grease off, then greased them up again, i denso taped them too,





made a spring spreader too,






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GARAGE HERMIT



Joined: 20 Mar 2017
Posts: 186
Location: stockton upon tees, cleveland,

PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2017 6:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

started on the panhard rod, i'm using spherical bearing's, the other end will be adjustable,





decided to buy a rear wheel bearing kit from FSOC, as mine are shot, managed to get the outer bearing out of the hub, took a big hammer, they're in tight,

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GARAGE HERMIT



Joined: 20 Mar 2017
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Location: stockton upon tees, cleveland,

PostPosted: Wed Nov 01, 2017 9:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

fitted the FSOC rear wheel bearing kit to both wheel's, everything went ok, warmed the brake hub up with my paint stripper gun, the bearing dropped straight in,
same with the inner sleeve on the brake plate,
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GARAGE HERMIT



Joined: 20 Mar 2017
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Location: stockton upon tees, cleveland,

PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2017 10:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

been reading up on rear suspension, and seen a WATT'S LINK, supposed to be better than a panhard rod setup, so i might go with the Watt's, found out a PT cruiser has one, they're about 60 on ebay, i'd be inverting it though, ie- the central piviot arm would be chassis mounted and the rod end's would be fastened to the axle, i'd have to fiddle about with the length of the arm's a bit to fit the pop though, we'll see,


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alanb



Joined: 10 Sep 2012
Posts: 350
Location: Berkshire.

PostPosted: Thu Nov 16, 2017 1:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How will that work then?
The yoke needs to be vertical and the bars horizontal and parallel when the axel is at mid travel.
Interesting to see how it's going to be fitted.
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GARAGE HERMIT



Joined: 20 Mar 2017
Posts: 186
Location: stockton upon tees, cleveland,

PostPosted: Thu Nov 16, 2017 2:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

alanb wrote:
How will that work then?
The yoke needs to be vertical and the bars horizontal and parallel when the axel is at mid travel.
Interesting to see how it's going to be fitted.


turn's out you can mount the Watt's above/below/in front and behind the diff,







but i'm thinking of mounting the piviot crank arm on a bracket off the central chassis leaf spring hanger/clamp, and the end's of tha arm's onto bracket's welded onto the axel, as in this pic, (but not as flash as this one) instead of welding the piviot point onto the diff housing,



i know you dont really need all this gear, i just like messing about with the pop, it's just my hobby,
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alanb



Joined: 10 Sep 2012
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Location: Berkshire.

PostPosted: Thu Nov 16, 2017 4:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I see now how it can be done, I can't envisage the pop ever cornering so fast that you'd really need it but I suppose the challenge is in the fitting.
I do remember back in the late 50s early 60s seeing the Bellamy pops racing at Silverstone.
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GARAGE HERMIT



Joined: 20 Mar 2017
Posts: 186
Location: stockton upon tees, cleveland,

PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2017 12:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

did you notice the leaf spring's on this car, they're fiberglass, never heard of f/g being used for car spring's,

Rolling Eyes
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GARAGE HERMIT



Joined: 20 Mar 2017
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Location: stockton upon tees, cleveland,

PostPosted: Mon Nov 27, 2017 8:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bought this distributor, it's off a E93a royal navy generator set, not that i need it, it just look's snazzy, to me anyway,


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Last edited by GARAGE HERMIT on Thu Sep 20, 2018 1:50 pm; edited 1 time in total
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GARAGE HERMIT



Joined: 20 Mar 2017
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Location: stockton upon tees, cleveland,

PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2018 8:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

weather slowed my progress quite a bit (no garage) but managed to fit the woodhead shock rear bracket's, what a mess on, searched for a long time to find shock's that were the right length, nearest i could find were mini front one's, then had to find the right size rubber eye bushing's, one's from a motorcycle fitted, then had to fit spacer's to the top mount's as the top and bottom bracket's didn't line up, nearly an inch out of line, then had to weld the front part of the bottom bracket's to the wishbone's as the clamp arrangement fouled the shock, starting on the front shock mounting soon, that's going to be a faf on too, as i'll have to make lower mounting bracket's for the shock as i've a Bowden IFS set up the Woodhead bracket's wont fit,

here's a few pic's of the rear set-up,








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alastairq



Joined: 14 Oct 2016
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 11:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks to be a neat job..well done!

The searching you've had to do highlights the issue of older tuning mods using what was, back then, modern kit, but which is now, equally as ancient, and hard to find, kit?
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