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Just bought a Pop 103e, 1957
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GARAGE HERMIT



Joined: 20 Mar 2017
Posts: 186
Location: stockton upon tees, cleveland,

PostPosted: Mon Apr 03, 2017 6:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

classicars, thank's for the pic and link's,

how is the rubber held onto the door,?
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alastairq



Joined: 14 Oct 2016
Posts: 1107
Location: East Yorkshire

PostPosted: Tue Apr 04, 2017 12:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My 175/80x16 wheels on the Dellow have a slightly larger diameter than the 5.00x16 or 4.50x17 crossply fitted wheels.

I have to get up to 6.50crossplies to get anywhere near diameter of the radials.

The advantage of 15 inch wheels is the broader choice of cheaper tyres.

If 175x16 Kingpin taxi tyres can be found, they have an even thicker tread depth.

Be aware, the taxi tyres have many more plies than ordinary car tyres, so are a bit stiff of sidewall.

I run mine with around 18psi, rears. Ordinary Avon crossplies up front, 16 psi.
Not so good on grass, better on rock or mud!
But then, the Dellow sticks to the road like the proverbial!!Smile
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GARAGE HERMIT



Joined: 20 Mar 2017
Posts: 186
Location: stockton upon tees, cleveland,

PostPosted: Tue Apr 04, 2017 1:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes, the taxi tyre's are stiffer, they have a load index of 98, where as most car tyre's LI is around 90/91,

the bigger RR of the taxi tyre's is just what i wanted, with a mildly tuned engine it will be able to pull what is in effect a taller top gear, less rev's for the same road speed, and a bit more top end, hopefully,

yes, the 15" tyre's will give you more choice, and cheaper than the taxi one's, but i dont think i'll be doing that many mile's, so the taxi one's will be fine for me cost wise,

dont think i'll be driving much on rock's and mud though, well not deliberately anyway, so i think the grip will be fine,

thank's for the information, alastairq,
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alastairq



Joined: 14 Oct 2016
Posts: 1107
Location: East Yorkshire

PostPosted: Tue Apr 04, 2017 1:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The advantage of the Ford Pop [and its ilk] over today's [modern] motors is, the ability to cope with grass verges, potholes, rough roads, and farm tracks with relative impunity.

With a ground clearance any Land Rover might be envious of [why do we think Ford Pop running gear was so popular for trials enthusiasts of old? Not just because it was cheap, easily available...but it was strong, well made, and good ground clearances].....and a torque tube back axle [which has the strange ability to make a rear wheel dig in deeper...through the mud?]....

The Pop ain't no tarmac queen,. for sure.

I recommend finding/buying 3 x 16 inch pop wheels from the Ford Prefect.

[You'll want a spare??]

Then carry a `17 inch plus a 16 inch spare?

You might want to check wheelarch clearances with the taxi tyres?

I recommend the Michelin taxis....rather than cheaper alternatives...not for the name, I assure you..I don't 'do' that sort of boswellox!

Try to find some Kingpin taxis too, for even taller tyres to give an option [would need another set of 16 inchers??]

[Don't forget the tubes, either.]
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GARAGE HERMIT



Joined: 20 Mar 2017
Posts: 186
Location: stockton upon tees, cleveland,

PostPosted: Fri Apr 14, 2017 8:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wondering if anyone in the northeast/yorkshire area has a set of prefect 16" wheel's for sale, ??

i'll be buying some aquaplane bit's shortly, head/su carb's/ exhaust & inlet manifold's, etc, would i need a water-pump with upping the power a bit, or would the std system be ok, ??
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Paul fairall



Joined: 17 Nov 2016
Posts: 431
Location: North west Kent

PostPosted: Fri Apr 14, 2017 10:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This was discussed in my thread as I plan to do the same. I have the exhaust manifold and twin su's, also a fast road camshaft. I will get the inlet manifold soon. Opinion was a water pump would not be necessary.
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ka



Joined: 03 Dec 2007
Posts: 600
Location: Orkney.

PostPosted: Sun Apr 16, 2017 7:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't forget the adjustable cam followers/tappets!
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KA

Better three than four.
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Paul fairall



Joined: 17 Nov 2016
Posts: 431
Location: North west Kent

PostPosted: Sun Apr 16, 2017 8:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ka wrote:
Don't forget the adjustable cam followers/tappets!

Who are the adjustable tappets for, me or garage hermit
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alastairq



Joined: 14 Oct 2016
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Location: East Yorkshire

PostPosted: Sun Apr 16, 2017 9:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paul fairall wrote:
ka wrote:
Don't forget the adjustable cam followers/tappets!

Who are the adjustable tappets for, me or garage hermit




Either?

If running a 10 HP engine, the normal tappets are solid, ie, non-adjustable. There are adjustable replacements available [SmallFordSpares?] , I hope they are better at fitting and adjusting than mine were [purchased nearly 15 years ago now]...?

If running 100E engine, they are adjustable as standard.
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GARAGE HERMIT



Joined: 20 Mar 2017
Posts: 186
Location: stockton upon tees, cleveland,

PostPosted: Sun Apr 16, 2017 1:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

paul, where did you buy the camshaft from,?

alastairq, are the adjustable tappet's really needed, ?
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alastairq



Joined: 14 Oct 2016
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Location: East Yorkshire

PostPosted: Sun Apr 16, 2017 2:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GARAGE HERMIT wrote:
paul, where did you buy the camshaft from,?

alastairq, are the adjustable tappet's really needed, ?





Hi, no they're not.

Check the gaps as they are now. Adjustment is either by grinding the valve head deeper into the seat, or by grinding a wee bit off the valve stem.

In all honesty, it is rare that the gaps need any adjustment.

The original cam followers are also a lot stronger than replacement adjustable types.

Adjustable come into their own largely if valve seats have been played with, or new[?] valves inserted?

For me, the main cause for concern with an 8/10 hp engine when rebuilding, especially, is the condition of the split valve guides? These are not easy to obtain , ''as-new''....and cost a lot anyway. In the past I have purchased boxes of used ones, trying to make up a decent 8 pairs!!

The 100E doesn't have that issue.

Of course, one could always source a vernier valve stem grinding tool?

Last one I used had something to do with Massey Ferguson!! It was a huge combination tool, including a vernier grinder as above....but filled the boot of a Maestro [to give some idea of size] and had a rubber electrical lead.

Mind, it could also grind a 3 angle valve head....

For a road car, I would not bother.
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Paul fairall



Joined: 17 Nov 2016
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Location: North west Kent

PostPosted: Sun Apr 16, 2017 7:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GARAGE HERMIT wrote:
paul, where did you buy the camshaft from,?

alastairq, are the adjustable tappet's really needed, ?
i bought the cam from Bob Froch while I was at his place buying some other parts. It's unused and Bob told me it doesn't have more lift but a longer opening. Small ford spares sell cam shafts.
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ka



Joined: 03 Dec 2007
Posts: 600
Location: Orkney.

PostPosted: Mon Apr 17, 2017 8:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My camshaft came from Small Fords. I can only comment on the one I obtained. To the best of my knowledge, no one is casting new cams for the 10hp/100e, so all available cams are re-profiled standard cams, unless you have obtained an original from the 50's/60's.
The 10hp, and the 100e cams are visually different, easily identified by the number of dowels in the driven end, and some of the later 100e cams have hardened shrunk-on bearings.
Most of the cams from the 60's came in two types, both designed to increase performance. One had a higher lift inlet, the other had higher lift inlet and exhaust, (H90/H91). There must have been others around, (there is reference made to them in the Cooper tuning bible; CP 65/190, CP75/191, CP 80/192).To modify a standard cam into a fast road cam, and when I measured the cam I had the profiles used are the same as the original cams from the 60's, the standard cams are re-ground on the reverse side, giving a higher lift, and necessitating a set of adjustable tappets on the 10hp (it is possible the standard followers on the 100e may have enough adjustment in them to absorb the gap, and no, they are not readily interchangeable between 10hp and 100e).
If you have a cam with longer duration opening and the same lift, then it is either circa 1960, built-up with weld, or a re-ground standard cam, if the latter then you probably need adjustable tappets. If it is re-ground, then the signs of grinding show on the reverse side to the lobe, where the profile is in line with the camshaft, or ground into it.
To gain a few extra horses with the standard cam, then time it up as the 100e using an offset dowel and standard tappets.
100e tappets can be made to fit the 10hp, but that is another story.
Best of luck.
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GARAGE HERMIT



Joined: 20 Mar 2017
Posts: 186
Location: stockton upon tees, cleveland,

PostPosted: Mon Apr 17, 2017 2:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

KA,
sound's like a lot of faffing about, for a few more bhp, not a road i'll be going down,
but good information all the same, ta,

another little question, the new aquaplane head's, are they std compression or bumped up a little bit, like fitting an 8hp head to a 10hp motor,?
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alastairq



Joined: 14 Oct 2016
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Location: East Yorkshire

PostPosted: Mon Apr 17, 2017 8:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GARAGE HERMIT wrote:
KA,
sound's like a lot of faffing about, for a few more bhp, not a road i'll be going down,
but good information all the same, ta,

another little question, the new aquaplane head's, are they std compression or bumped up a little bit, like fitting an 8hp head to a 10hp motor,?


Compression is raised....not quite sure how much, off top of me head.

I think more than fitting the 8 hp head will give....

Fitting the 8hp head is probably cheapest option, Aquaplane stuff ain't cheap these days.
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