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What did you do to your car today?
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badhuis



Joined: 20 Aug 2008
Posts: 1390
Location: Netherlands

PostPosted: Sat Nov 30, 2019 6:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vulgalour wrote:
Unfortunately, the paper gasket also serves as a vital shim, without it the camshaft binds against the end plate, this in turn caused the cambelt to skip several teeth and, since the O series is an interference engine, all the of the valves met all of the pistons. It appears this coming together only happened the once, so it is repairable, and I may even have relevant parts to fix it in my spare head.


Sorry to hear that! What a stupid design....
Please keep us informed about the repair, good luck with it.
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badhuis



Joined: 20 Aug 2008
Posts: 1390
Location: Netherlands

PostPosted: Sat Nov 30, 2019 7:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My Jensen was hard to start sometimes - not always. I inserted a fuel filter just before the carburetor and found out that, after a nights rest, it did not fill up with petrol. The fuel in the carb presumably is drained/evaporated overnight and the mechanical pump has a problem (sometimes) with bringing up the fuel.
I bought a cheap electric fuel pump. That was something I always had in the back of mind, using an electric pump to prime the carburettor. This will be done before the starter motor has even turned. No extra starting revolutions needed just to prime the carburetor using the mechanical pump.

Tested the electric pump (by blowing through it) that if there is (fuel) pressure to it it will still flow - I thought it maybe would block the flow when the pump is not working. So I installed it today between the mechanical fuel pump and the filter. Temporary switch (with a control lamp built in) put on the little shelf beneath the drivers dash.
It seems to work well but I only started the car and ran it for a few minutes. Need to run it longer to see if the mechanical pump will still work after the initial electric pump is stopped. Also I am not sure if instead of putting the electric pump in series (after the mechanical pump) is the best way. Maybe better to put it parallel to the mechanical pump? We will see, probably tomorrow.


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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6282
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2019 1:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vulgalour wrote:





Unfortunately, the paper gasket also serves as a vital shim, without it the camshaft binds against the end plate, this in turn caused the cambelt to skip several teeth...


Are you sure about that?

Forgive my scepticism but I have never heard of such a bizarre design before.
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Vulgalour



Joined: 08 May 2018
Posts: 473
Location: Kent

PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2019 2:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was skeptical too, because it seems far fetched. To confirm the theory, I fitted the end plate with and without the paper gasket and attempted to turn the camshaft by hand. Without the gasket, the camshaft will not move unless you use considerable force like a breaker bar or the starter motor. With the gasket fitted, the camshaft turns normally.

If I hadn't had the car running before removing the gasket I likely wouldn't have found the problem so easily, but since I did have the car running and the only change was that paper gasket, it ended up being easy to track down.

I'm told the Triumph Stag has a similar interference issue with the water pump, though of course that doesn't result in you bending all the valves when you don't install the gasket.
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alastairq



Joined: 14 Oct 2016
Posts: 1950
Location: East Yorkshire

PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2019 3:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seems the use of a paper gasket to provide end float isn't as rare as one would believe. The Ford Pop/Prefect/Anglia/Thames rear axle splits in the middle...[as does the 100E Ford] one side [right side] houses the pinion housing, the left side the crown wheel...a paper gasket [or two] which can be had in various thicknesses, provides the clearance....also for the diff bearings...and goes between the two axle casing halves [or 3, for the bigger [Fordson?] Thames.]

Same goes for the speedo drive housing on the torque tube.
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V8 Nutter



Joined: 27 Aug 2012
Posts: 587

PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2019 3:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fuel draining down when the car has been stood for a few days is a common problem on many American V8's. I have always ignored it just let the starter whirl and pump the throttle. I know a few people who have fitted an electric pump in line, they usually fit it close to the tank. It does not seem to cause any problems.

The O series Leyland head was an awful design, surpassed only by the Rover 2.3/2.6 which was the only engine I came across where the cam could seize by leaving a cold engine ticking over.

When I worked in the engine shop we had O series heads in all the year round, with burnt out or bent valves. In the winter it was mostly the six cylinder Rovers with seized cams, broken rockers and bent valves
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Rootes75



Joined: 30 Apr 2013
Posts: 3785
Location: The Somerset Levels

PostPosted: Mon Dec 02, 2019 10:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Spent more time getting the Karrier ready for people to view her. Typical timewasters though, I had put people off because the first guy who was really interested was travelling down Saturday, typical though he didnt turn up. The others who I had put off are now not bothered about coming down.
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6282
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Mon Dec 02, 2019 10:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Having assembled the pinion with taper bearings and new lip seal into the housing with a light touch preload, I turned my attention to the crown wheel. I opened up the differential case and inspected the star and planet wheels to establish how much wear there was.

Fortunately, although there some was evidence of the 4 planet gears wearing into the housing the rubbing was slight and the general condition was acceptable. Often there is cracking of the housing emanating from the oil holes but I found no cracks.

I mounted the crown wheel with 8 new 5/16" BSF HT bolts with all metal 'aerotight' locking nuts; torqued to 30ft lbs. (This saved lining up holes with castle nuts).

The assembly was then checked on the lathe for run out. Using a dial gauge +/- 0.01 mm is acceptable.

One problem I had was getting the 2 1/16" adjusting nuts onto the housing. One side was particularly tight. This is apparently due to distortion.

I also made a mistake when pressing on the new taper roller bearings because I pressed them right home which meant they wouldn't fit in the casing and had to be pulled back a bit.

I am now waiting for a bespoke steel template to come from Roger Furneaux so I can set it up correctly.
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BigJohn



Joined: 01 Jan 2011
Posts: 954
Location: Wem, Shropshire

PostPosted: Wed Dec 04, 2019 8:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fitted a big valve head to the Escort 1360, now I have a dilemma as to which carb set up to fit 28/36, 32/32, 32/36.
It's a good job the crossflow is easy to work on and swapping Webers is a quick job.
I don't want to use a 40DCOE as I like the servo where it is and 40's foul it.
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6282
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Wed Dec 04, 2019 9:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Today I turned my attention to refitting the rebuilt shock absorbers. Unfortunately they have been given a finishing coat of mat black paint which has no adhesion. You could scrape it off with a finger nail! This meant scraping off all traces of paint before cleaning and giving them a couple of coats of Hammerite smooth black. It took up time I could have much better used elsewhere.

I was quite surprised to find that although the Girling Luvax lever arm shock absorbers were obviously designed to be attached with substantial 7/16" bolts - the front ones are - the chassis mounted brackets for the rear ones only have 3/8" holes!! It would not be possible to open up the holes as they are too close to the edge of the brackets. In the end I had to fit 3/8" bolts and nuts and either like it or lump it.
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BigJohn



Joined: 01 Jan 2011
Posts: 954
Location: Wem, Shropshire

PostPosted: Thu Dec 05, 2019 7:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fitted a 32/32 weber to my new cylinder head, as I connected the throttle cable the brass adjuster decided to break as I wound the locknuts up by hand. Poo! New cable with a steel adjuster ordered from Burton's.
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Mog



Joined: 30 Dec 2007
Posts: 661
Location: Sydney

PostPosted: Fri Dec 06, 2019 7:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lot of mechanical petrol pumps have non return valves fitted . They should be looked at to make sure they are sealing properly . I could not understand why the petrol kept draining back to the tank on a Commer truck . Somebody had put the non return valve in the wrong way around ! It ran alright but every night the petrol drained back .
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MikeEdwards



Joined: 25 May 2011
Posts: 2463
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Fri Dec 06, 2019 10:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

^ If it was in the wrong way around, doesn't that suggest that it's not really working all that well, if it would let fuel through that way? Or do non-return valves only work based on very low pressure, and will give up if the fuel is pumped through? I bought one for my car, and I'm sure when I gave it the "blow" test (it wasn't marked for flow direction) nothing came through the "wrong" way.

I welded the top step onto my project yesterday, or at least the back half of it. I'm making it in two pieces so I can use the surviving original part as a position guide. Now the new bit is in, I can remove the front half and line it up to that. Started removing the front wing, too, for access.
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Rootes75



Joined: 30 Apr 2013
Posts: 3785
Location: The Somerset Levels

PostPosted: Sun Dec 08, 2019 2:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Had a guy drive 5 hours down to us to look at the Karrier this morning, he is quite keen but has not tackled anything before. We had her driving out round the yard, does make you think about selling or not selling.
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Mog



Joined: 30 Dec 2007
Posts: 661
Location: Sydney

PostPosted: Mon Dec 09, 2019 11:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

From what I remember the ball and seat was in a small , round brass cage . It could be put in upside down if you did not notice . The petrol would still flow through but drain back to the tank when stopped for a period of time . In hot Aussie weather the carby would dry out also . So, for any chance of it starting the petrol had to be hand pumped first .

This was a ball and seat . I agree if yours is a flap type non return valve it would not work the wrong way .
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