Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[BigJohn]

I only use about 5-8psi in an Eezibleed. The can be incredibly messy if they leak under pressure.

[alastairq]

Eezibleeds?

How much pressure was being used?

I have found 3 or 4 lbs/sq inch enough to bleed a Skoda with 4 pot calipers...from a spare wheel.
Having a helper is not always a good idea....got my last ex-wife [need you ask??] to do that....spent ages wondering why no fluid was coming through.....finally noticed the clutch cable moving........!

[Ray White]

This afternoon I took off the rear light and GB plate followed by the supporting bracket. The assembly had become slightly bent when I reversed into something and has been bugging me for a while. Fortunately, I was able to acquire another square blank number plate in black (12" x 8.5"). The oval GB plate is a rare large old type and looks great mounted on the square plate so it is nicely in balance with the square number plate on the other side. I have used dome headed nuts to finish it off. The only difficulty was getting to the bracket bolts on the chassis cross member.

Recently I have been playing with paint on the front of the ignition switch. I have changed it from black to white with black lettering. It's more difficult than it would seem.

[BigJohn]

Got to know my new toy, I needed an auto that my wife would drive as she finds the Escort too lairy, so I now have a 1993 Mk1 Golf Cabriolet auto in the garage. Strange having a classic, some might say it's too new for that title, I have to tax.

[MikeEdwards]

Swapped the nearside top suspension bushes. Found that a reasonably big part of one of them had come away, which won't be helping the handling. It's really close to the exhaust manifold, so now I need to have a look at the engine mounting in case that has sagged. Other than that, really easy job to do as I made a point of putting some grease along the top bolt when it went back on in 1997.

[Kleftiwallah]

I'm in the proccess of fitting the steering column brace. Whilst in training (one of Trenchards Brats) we had what was humerously called "Murder boxes". An ally box with access only at each end about 3" long and inside were various turnbuckles and wire lockable teasers. Without sight and only working by feel we had to wirelock the various turnbuckles etc.

Very much like that, with one hand in from the engine compartment and the other from the "Cockpit" it's a bit of a struggle. But then, if it was easy there would be no sense of achievment would there?? ?

Cheers, Tony.
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It may work in practice, but not necessarily in theory!

[MikeEdwards]

Swapped the engine mounting that I referred to earlier. It had sagged quite significantly, and wasn't far away from the rubber separating from the metal on one side.

[badhuis]

Regarding engine mounts. On the Jensen Owners Club forum there were two posts about this recently. One was that someone renewed the mountings with a new type, and as a result got his bonnet dented.

The other post is about the horror of modern dynamics....

[Keith D]

I finally (after about six months) looked into the Chrysler's engine missing under load at about 55 km/hour (30+ mph). It turned out to be an incorrect float height. I changed the float chamber top, float and needle and now things are fine. She was shutting fuel off a fraction too early in the float chamber and consequently starving the engine when I put my foot down.

Keith.
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1926 Chrysler 60 tourer
1932 Austin Seven RN long wheelbase box sedan
1950 Austin A40 tourer
1999 BMW Z3
Its weird being the same age as old people.
You are either part of the problem or part of the solution

[Rick]

[MikeEdwards]

Took mine out for a quick run today, in the nice sunshine. It was getting low on fuel so I added a bit, and the drive seems to have done it good. I've now removed the heater box, as I've been intending to swap the heater matrix for some time. Every time I put the heat on, the windows steam up, indicating a bit of damp somewhere, so it's high time it got fixed.

[badhuis]

Put a much lower pressure on the Eezibleed, this worked.
The Jaguar 420 has two brake reservoirs, one for the rear and one for the front brakes. They have a cap which contains a float which turns on a switch when the fluid level is low. The switches worked but the corks do not float anymore. I opened up one and replaced it with a wine bottle cork I just had opened yesterday evening. Tested and it works now. The other one has to wait a few days

Replaced the electric column switch which put earth to the reverse light when the selector is at R, and 12V to the starter motor relay when in P or N.
Well, that's what it should do. The switch was broken and I took it out months ago, temporarily connecting the starter motor wires together (so that it would start regardless of the selection handle).
Opened the switch, a good old mechanical Lucas switch to find out the plastic lever was broken. Tried to repair it using superglue but it broke off again. Fifties and sixties car parts: it usually is the "new" material (plastic) which breaks/giveup after years. Finally after weeks I found another second hand switch for reasonable money - it came form the USA. New ones are available but for stupid money (> 150 UKP)
Opened this one up as well and the plastic lever is a little different but still good. However on the backplate the copper part for the reverse light was worn away - this means it will not switch the reverse light. The hinge pin for the lever is mounted too fragile for me to try to replace from the other switch - I could end up with two non-working switches. So I now have a part-working switch - only for the starter motor. I can live with that but would have preferred a better switch of course (am still looking).
Next problem is I lost the little pin that goes from the switch lever to the lever on the selector. This is simple to make, however I have to try to see what the exact length is needed. The adjustment is pretty awful to do as there is so little room under the dashboard. So, only half finished for now
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a car stops being fun when it becomes an investment

[Rootes75]

I spent a couple of hours making rear wing stay templates for my Commer. I am fabricating the templates from Aluminium as its easier to bend cold.
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Various Rootes Vehicles.

[consul 57]

replaced the speedo consol and added the missing window trim join covers on my mk2 57 consul highline.
a much neater job than the broken and badly repaired old one!

[47Jag]

I finally got the exhaust system finished on my old Jag. I got wind of a guy in the JDC who had 4 x NOS silencers for sale. That was the easy bit. Figuring out where and how it was mounted was another voyage of discovery but thanks to the patient help and photos from Peter Scott it now has a factory exhaust.

All I had before was the remains of two front pipes which I welded into a Siamese pipe. You'll love this next bit. My wife's BMW Mini had failed its first MOT at five years old but only was only because the outer casing was rusted through. I kept this and made a matching flange to fit to the front pipe. And Bob's yer father's brother, a makeshift exhaust system so that i could drive/move the car around without alarming the neighbours.

Art