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'26 Dodge Brothers Ignition Switch.
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6286
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Sat Jan 27, 2018 7:24 pm    Post subject: '26 Dodge Brothers Ignition Switch. Reply with quote

This is the Clum ignition/lights switch from my '26 DB touring. While everything works there are some problems in use which need attention. Despite acquiring a correct key in better condition than the original, there is still a tendency for it to work loose and even fall out. The biggest problem, however, is that the ignition can cut out on occasions and I then have to wiggle the key or turn it off and back on again to restore the current. I checked before removal that all the terminals were tight. There were no frayed wires or anything obviously wrong.

Having become exasperated with the increasing frequency of the intermittent "cutting out" I have removed the offending article and hope to restore it at least to a more reliable condition.

I understand that Myers Early Dodge in the States sell used ignition switches but not refurbished ones so I hope to be able to do something with mine. There are some reproduction Ford T ignition parts that I gather may fit the Clum unit and any assistance at all with these would be appreciated.

Photo1 shows the face of the switch - an original feature that I am very keen to retain (if possible)

Photo 2 shows the rear of the switch with the screw type terminals and coiled wire for the "dimmed" headlight setting. I notice there are some small clips and also some tabs which I presume have to be carefully bent back?

Photo 3 shows the side view and what looks like a heavy duty insulation block into which the terminals are pressed.

Photo. 4, 5 and 6 shows further dismantling. It is a wonder that it worked at all! I have lifted the little tags and separated the two parts giving me access to the barrel but as expected it has disintegrated.

Any help would be appreciated.








Last edited by Ray White on Sat Jan 27, 2018 10:42 pm; edited 1 time in total
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alastairq



Joined: 14 Oct 2016
Posts: 1950
Location: East Yorkshire

PostPosted: Sat Jan 27, 2018 9:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Best of luck!

I have often wondered how best to deal with the green coloured deposits.....and what causes them....and how to stop it happening?

For the sake of reliability [as distinct from authenticy....an issue which time has come to ignore with any old car?] I might be inclined to have the ignition circuit itself to a separate, more modern device under the dash somewhere?

My British car was rewired [re-circuited, more likely?] whilst on its sojourn in the USofA....so has a US-made circuit board under the dash...with various circuits built-in..all one has to do is connect up which lights one wants to flash, etc....thus, the ignition switch, a Ford item...has had its functions modified to suit US rules...the switch control the headlights, dip & main...many is the time I have dipped the headlights, only to turn off the ignition at the same time! At 50 mph, in the pitch dark, language is interesting, as is the fumbling.
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47Jag



Joined: 26 Jun 2008
Posts: 1480
Location: Bothwell, Scotland

PostPosted: Sun Jan 28, 2018 12:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ray,

The green deposit that Alistair refers to looks like copper oxide which is the same stuff that form on battery terminals. The treatment for that would be baking soda. So, I suggest you try a paste of baking soda and apply it to the contacts. The centre ‘post’, is that I guide pin? What I’m thinking is if that could be removed you could file or sand the surface down to expose a bit more of the contacts or a twirl of a twist drill to undercut the plastic and at the same time ‘dress’ the contacts. I assuming by the corrosion the car is negative earth. To get another 80+ years from the refurbished switch you could change it to positive earth, then the body will corrode instead Laughing

Art
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6286
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Sun Jan 28, 2018 1:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello Art. Thanks for the tip about baking soda. The car is positive earth and the insulation block is made from a kind of fibre board. I don't think it would be easy to remove the central guide pin but I can try cleaning up the brass contacts. I also considered replacing the steel screws with brass ones and where they share contact points perhaps the ends of the screws could make an improved contact.?

When I removed the barrel it fell in half and is beyond sensible repair so I am enquiring with a supplier in the States if a replacement (with key) is available. If I have no luck with a replacement I am considering utilising another small switch already on the dash as an alternative ignition switch; leaving the original for lights only as they seem to have reasonably good contacts.

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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
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Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Sun Jan 28, 2018 10:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Leaving aside the lock issue the contacts look as if they would work well if cleaned and didn't have the screws protruding into the brass ring contact.

Peter
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6286
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Sun Jan 28, 2018 11:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

peter scott wrote:
Leaving aside the lock issue the contacts look as if they would work well if cleaned and didn't have the screws protruding into the brass ring contact.

Peter


That photo is a bit confusing, Peter. I have wound the screws right in to keep them safe. I am contemplating using a redundant switch that is already on the dash for the ignition leaving the original as a light switch only as there seems to be no problems with the lights.
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kevin2306



Joined: 01 Jul 2013
Posts: 1359
Location: nr Llangollen, north wales

PostPosted: Mon Jan 29, 2018 2:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

what about using an ultrasonic cleaner? mine is superb on all sorts of bits and pieces.

Kevin
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6286
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Mon Jan 29, 2018 9:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just lightly burnished the contacts with some fine sandpaper; I don't possess an ultra sonic cleaner. What I noticed that might have contributed to the "cutting out" is one of the ignition contacts is higher than the other. These contacts are simple knurled brass threaded pegs inserted into the insulation board. I was able to tap the lower one through a little more so that it was level with the other one. This will enable the spring loading to equalise and hopefully make the ignition current more reliable.
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alastairq



Joined: 14 Oct 2016
Posts: 1950
Location: East Yorkshire

PostPosted: Tue Jan 30, 2018 4:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What about a wee drizzle of superglue on the errant contact, to help prevent it being pushed out of alignment again?
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6286
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Tue Jan 30, 2018 6:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

alastairq wrote:
What about a wee drizzle of superglue on the errant contact, to help prevent it being pushed out of alignment again?


I think that is a good idea. I have some super glue I will give it a go. Thanks.

I have some Loctite 638 winging it's way to me but I don't think it likes exposure to air.
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Rick
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Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 22429
Location: UK

PostPosted: Fri May 04, 2018 8:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How's it going with the ignition switch Ray? Is yours the same as mine, ie combined with the light switch? I bypassed my ignition switch a while ago while I was having fun and games getting mine to run (I think it was the mag overheating that caused my issues) but I've not yet returned to key operation. The light switch part of mine has developed a fault now, must be the 90+ yr old connections inside these old switches I think.

RJ
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6286
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2018 8:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Rick. The ignition switch is now fixed. The main problem was one of the brass terminals had become loose in the insulation. I fixed it with super glue!

I also repainted it from black with white figures to white to black figures. Getting the.figures right was tricky.

There are two “Clum” ignition switches (at least) with combined ignition and lighting. The “dim” feature is controlled by an exposed resistance coil on the back. Considering how congested with wiring this area is, I am not happy that it is safe. The coil gets extremely hot!

P.S. I still can’t use my MacBook because of Norton. I am on my wife’s iPad which is nearly as fiddly as my phone! No photos. Mad
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Rick
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Joined: 27 Apr 2005
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PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2018 9:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is an old photo of my switch, yes I've wondered about that coil on the reverse myself.



RJ
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