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Good Quality Ignition Lead sets
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DHS2Dave



Joined: 05 May 2016
Posts: 8

PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2018 10:57 am    Post subject: Good Quality Ignition Lead sets Reply with quote

Hello,
Has anyone got any recommendations for a decent set of ignition leads for a Ford 1172 Sidevalve engine?

The ones I got last year from the Small Ford Centre are not great and pop off, or are loose in the distrubutor cap. I have fiddled with the copper prongs as some websites suggest to solve the problem, and are still loose.

I have a long standing problem of the engine dying after ten minutes or so and I am working my way through probable causes.

So, any suggestions of decent leads suppliers. The E93A dizzy cap are push in leads.

Since this is my first post, a little about the car. It is is a 1952 Special, called a DHS2, built by a gent named David Small, who owned a Jowett Dealership in Basingstoke. The car raced at Silverstone on a few occasions and did rather well. Being a Ford Special, it is a hand built steel chassis, two seater with Jowett raditator grill and instruments. Three speed box and Ford rear axle. The body is hand built aluminium.

The link below is a typical article from its racing days in 1953. There is a good deal of history on the net of the car, with race times and finish positions etc. I would post a photo, but since the demise of photobucket as a facility it makes it rather hard.

https://www.motorsportmagazine.com/archive/article/july-1953/40/eight-clubs-silverstone-meeting


Thanks
Dave
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ukdave2002



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4100
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2018 4:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have they got the correct fittings on the ends that push in? there should be some physical resistance when you fit them caused by the clip or ferrule.

Dave
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alastairq



Joined: 14 Oct 2016
Posts: 1950
Location: East Yorkshire

PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2018 4:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.gsparkplug.com/ignition

Rubber caps should hold the lead in situ as well as spreading the brass contacts. I have found the rubber caps have a better seal if WD40 is not used...

But then, I also have a set of Nology Hotwire plug leads, all the way from the US of A! as well as my usual NGK items..
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Rick
Site Admin


Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 22429
Location: UK

PostPosted: Fri May 04, 2018 8:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you made any progress with the engine cutting out? It sounds temperature related, which could be electrical (coil, condenser etc) or possibly fuel vapourising, which was a common problem with Pops etc back in the day (although the installation in your car as opposed to in a Pop may mean that vapourising isn't an issue).

Welcome to the forum too.

RJ
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DHS2Dave



Joined: 05 May 2016
Posts: 8

PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2018 9:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="Rick"]Have you made any progress with the engine cutting out? It sounds temperature related, which could be electrical (coil, condenser etc) or possibly fuel vapourising, which was a common problem with Pops etc back in the day (although the installation in your car as opposed to in a Pop may mean that vapourising isn't an issue).

Welcome to the forum too.

RJ[/quote

Hi Rick,

Yes and no, we ran it for about 40mins idling/standing outside the shed on Saturday last and it ran fine, restarted easily and no failure. We did a qiick spin up the lane and back.0.5 miles and again idled okay. No cutouts.

I am inclined to think the SUs may be running too rich due to a stuck choke due to getting no use and modern fuels. I have no evidence for this beyond the engine revs/fumes,, but next time it fails I am thinking of taking the plugs out to see if it is a bit wet/flooded.

I want to do a step wise range of things with elecs first, making my own leads. I have found out how poor ready made leads are.

The car does not get enough attention really as I have a couple of other bigger projects, steam related, but this year i am determined to crack my unreliabilty problems.

Cheers
Dave
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