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47p2



Joined: 24 Nov 2007
Posts: 2009
Location: Glasgow

PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2008 5:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great work Peter and very informative.
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Posts: 7113
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2008 5:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks John, I think the designer of your engine was less stuck in the past. Would I be right in thinking you can actually still buy a replacement thermostat for the P2?

Peter
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47p2



Joined: 24 Nov 2007
Posts: 2009
Location: Glasgow

PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2008 5:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The replacement thermostat for the P2 is a standard thermostat which is modified.
A piece of copper tube is soldered to the bottom of the stat which allows the water movement to flow around as it should.


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Last edited by 47p2 on Fri Oct 31, 2008 6:47 pm; edited 1 time in total
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47Jag



Joined: 26 Jun 2008
Posts: 1480
Location: Bothwell, Scotland

PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2008 6:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Peter,

I think your concerns about head distortion only apply to the 3 1/2 litre engine. Your 2 1/2 is an altogether better engineered unit with an extra row of studs down the center of the block which effectively give a six point clamp as opposed to the four point of the 3 1/2 litre. One of Ed Nantes modifications is to put a 3 1/2 crank in a 2 1/2 block giving a 3 litre capacity.
I made a timing indicator plate that bolts onto the timing cover and put a notch in the pulley to align with the TDC. There are a couple of degree wheel prints available on the net so that you can download. I'll send you a picture in a PM.

Art
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Posts: 7113
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2008 7:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yup! The familiar issue of getting the bypass to close off.

Peter
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Posts: 7113
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2008 7:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

47Jag wrote:
Peter,
I think your concerns about head distortion only apply to the 3 1/2 litre engine.
Art


Hi Art,

No, the tests that led to the Corrujoint gasket took place in 1937 on a 2 1/2 litre engine. Not on account of head distortion but rather with distortion of the bores by virtue of the uneven pulling on the block face. I know the 3 1/2 has further problems due to dropping the third row of studs but that is to do with gasket failure rather than bore distortion.

Peter
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Posts: 7113
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2008 6:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Had a go at repairing a broken alloy pulley with HTS2000. You need to clean the thing carefully and make a little mould out of sheet steel to contain the molten HTS. It's pretty amazing stuff but I don't think I got the pulley evenly enough heated, probably because I sat it on a couple of bricks from the garden that were damp and didn't get fully dried out. The result was that there was good adhesion along half the repair but I could see that the other half had movement when I was shaping it. Might have another go but have acquired another alloy pulley that only needed a little flange straightening.


Centring the chain case on the pulley scroll with shims is a bit more fiddley than the same job on the other end the crankshaft because you are working under the pulley flange.



This alloy pulley is the correct one but with the longer section of the crankshaft with the Woodruff keys in it I still needed a spacer between the pulley and the dog nut. There is such a part (no. 7) in the parts list although I don't have one so I've made up a spacer. Unfortunately this spacer doesn't reach the Woodruff key, which is below pulley level so there's no means of locking the dog nut. Maybe spacer 7 has a little spiggot that locates in the pulley.



Having got the chain case sealed up I can now seal up the sump so a final clean up of the inside and the surge plate and I've replaced the rather grotty oil pump strainer. The thick cardboard gasket is yet another success thanks to Art's ball pein technique.

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Last edited by peter scott on Thu Jul 06, 2017 8:06 am; edited 2 times in total
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pigtin



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 1879
Location: Herne Bay

PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2008 10:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Like that lathe in the background, a real piece of equipment, puts my Chinese copy to shame. Wink
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Posts: 7113
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2008 11:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

But I'm sure your Chinese machine will be a lot more capable. My old thing is very basic. It has a lead screw but no reduction gearing. I only have a 3 jaw chuck. I inherited from my father who bought it from a bagpipe maker
who was only interested in wood turning with hand tools. Crying or Very sad

Peter

p.s. I confess that my vertical drill is a Chinese machine bought very cheaply but it's absolutely excellent.
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pigtin



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 1879
Location: Herne Bay

PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2008 11:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Suppose my Chinese lathe/mill was ok after I finished building it for them. I bought it to do one job on the special and that was to cut some special threads to attach the adapted ends to my trackrod. Surprising what else I found for it to do. It's paid for itself ten times over. Wink
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
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Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Sat Nov 01, 2008 5:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Having got the sump and chain case closed off I thought it was about time to clean the outside of the engine. Stage 1 chipping and scraping most of the old black paint and undercoat off the block.


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Last edited by peter scott on Thu Jul 06, 2017 8:09 am; edited 1 time in total
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47Jag



Joined: 26 Jun 2008
Posts: 1480
Location: Bothwell, Scotland

PostPosted: Sat Nov 01, 2008 5:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Peter,



Here's the picture of the timing marker I made.

Art
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
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Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Sat Nov 01, 2008 6:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Art, I do agree that looks very neat.

Peter
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Posts: 7113
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Sun Nov 02, 2008 5:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

With the outside of the engine now reasonably clean my next job was to remove the rocker shaft and clean up the top deck of the head.


This also required the side cover to come off to check that nothing had got down the push rod tubes and for general inspection of the tappets. Near the start of this thread I mentioned that someone had drilled a 3/4" hole (now plugged) in the side cover and I couldn't think why they'd done it. Well having looked inside they have glued a baffle plate behind the hole so I guess it must have been some additional crankcase breather. The baffle looks like it must have been cut from a Benares brass tray as it has part of a pattern on it.


Otherwise the tappet area looks very nice and clean.


The tappets themselves still have their case hardening more less intact and there is no significant ridge on the stems.

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Last edited by peter scott on Thu Jul 06, 2017 8:12 am; edited 1 time in total
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Posts: 7113
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2008 6:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I had another go at the broken pulley today. When I tried it before I wasn't applying enough heat to the pulley. This time I did and the result is very strong. I can hit the repaired area sideways with a hammer and there is no sign of cracking. The HTS2000 is really excellent stuff (I've no connection with the company). The only thing I would be more cautious of in future is that it is significantly harder than the alloy of this pulley so you need to be careful when shaping the repair to avoid damage to the softer surrounding material.

As you may have guessed I was not cautious enough and made a bit of a dog's breakfast of it. But it does show that it can be a very practical repair.

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