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dalbuie



Joined: 24 Dec 2007
Posts: 408
Location: Gullane

PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 10:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Might be a few weeks yet, still awaiting a big package from the USA.

I'll definitely play it safe and get the rad and coolant connected before and running up to temp.
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47p2



Joined: 24 Nov 2007
Posts: 2009
Location: Glasgow

PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 10:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For testing purposes I would certainly connect the radiator, but fill it with clean water and no coolant. Once you are sure everything is fine then drain the water out. Do not leave plain water in for longer than you need or it will cause internal corrosion
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47Jag



Joined: 26 Jun 2008
Posts: 1480
Location: Bothwell, Scotland

PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 10:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Peter and I have had words on this subject before. I wouldn't risk it.

Art
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dalbuie



Joined: 24 Dec 2007
Posts: 408
Location: Gullane

PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 10:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Probably fine if you're very confident and have done it before without any problems.

I think I'd be pretty nervous. Maybe I'll try and persuade Peter to stand beside the engine and monitor the temp Smile
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Posts: 7113
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 9:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

peter scott wrote:
A good guideline is if you can still keep your hand on the head.


Hi D.

I'm happy to lend a hand. Laughing

P.
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Posts: 7113
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 7:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I decided to go with the flow and install the cooling system before starting the engine.

Only two little snags appeared. The first was a slight weep from the bypass hose. No great problem. The second is a pain. There's a slight leak from the rocker oil feed pipe. I think it must have a small nick in it but maybe I can solder it. You can see the little puddle below the back corner of the sump. The string and cardboard around the dynamo is an attempt to glue the two halves of the the brass data label back on and the crock clip lead is the connection from the thermo switch to the starting carb. My old water manifold had it next to the carb but it's a longer stretch with this one.


I made a little video of the first start-up but didn't really have enough light so the shots in the interior of the car are a bit unclear. If it all sounds a bit noisey it's because there is no passenger side floor or gearbox cover. You can see direct into the engine.
http://uk.video.yahoo.com/watch/3949879/10729002
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Last edited by peter scott on Thu Jul 06, 2017 9:49 am; edited 2 times in total
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47p2



Joined: 24 Nov 2007
Posts: 2009
Location: Glasgow

PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice one Peter, you must be well pleased

Good decision on filling the radiator Very Happy
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peppiB



Joined: 30 Jun 2008
Posts: 686
Location: Newcastle upon Tyne

PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 8:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is one of the most satisfying sounds of any engine rebuild/replacement

Agree with filling the radiator - too much work involved to spoil it with overheating!
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Posts: 7113
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 8:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks John, I'm quite glad to get her mobile again as I've just sold my 1937 chassis, engine and axles and the guy is coming to collect on Monday and most of it is locked in by the presence of the '39 car. If I hadn't got her running there would have been a bit of pushing to do. OK going out of my garage but it's uphill to get back in. Evil or Very Mad

Peter
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Greeney in France



Joined: 06 Mar 2008
Posts: 1173
Location: Limousin area of France

PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 9:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well done Peter, that's a great video too
I still have a place in my heart for the SS and Jaguar range
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Ray the rocker



Joined: 01 Aug 2008
Posts: 187
Location: south wales

PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 10:44 pm    Post subject: engine rebuild Reply with quote

that picture of the finished rebuild ---i`m impressed.
video footage a little jumpy---just like your heartbeat on the initial startup.
any mechanic will tell you the same applies to them!!
did i tighten that pulley nut ! is the ignition timing right! what`s that ticking noise! ahh--that sounds better! the trials of reconditioning.
bet you can`t wait to road test!! good job --well done....

Cheers --ray the rocker.....
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Posts: 7113
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 10:52 pm    Post subject: Re: engine rebuild Reply with quote

Ray the rocker wrote:

bet you can`t wait to road test!! good job --well done....



Thanks to you all for your supporting posts.

You bet Ray! Very Happy
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pigtin



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 1879
Location: Herne Bay

PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 11:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for sharing this with us Peter, makes me want to go and pick up my spanners again. Very Happy
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Posts: 7113
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 12:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Don, I hope you do.

Peter Very Happy
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Posts: 7113
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 4:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fixed the bypass hose leak and took a look at the rocker oil feed pipe. Sure enough, it had a nice little split in it which was too small for me to see without a watch glass. Sad

A blob of solder seems to have fixed it. The two ends don't move relative to each other, well I hope they don't, being between block and head so it should survive OK.

Took her for a 20 mile hack along the bypass and she ran very smoothly.
Performance is down a little on the old engine but I've done nothing to adjust the ignition timing or mixture since the initial guestimates. Then again it might be due to this engine giving away 200cc to the oldie which was bored out to 60 thou.

Disappointingly the oil pressure is also worse than in the old engine. I know the bearings are good but other factors could be that I didn't put any gasket on the bottom plate of the oil pump. I did take a look at the pressure relief valve when assembling things and it looked fine. I've yet to check the rocker shaft flows. One other difference is that I had fitted a larger capacity oil pump in the old engine so I might be taking the sump off again and swapping pumps. Sad

After returning from the run the engine looks water tight and the sides and upper works look oil tight as do the dreaded sump bolts that screw into those alloy bridge pieces.

The only slight leakage is from the bottom of the timing chain cover.

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Last edited by peter scott on Thu Jul 06, 2017 9:50 am; edited 2 times in total
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