Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[roverdriver]

One of our cars is a 1982 Aussie spec. Rover SE. That is a SD1 with fuel injection.

Recently I had a problem with the total failure of the distributor rotor. I have no idea how long the rotor has been in my car, it was there when I bought the vehicle about nine years ago.

My local motor parts dealer found that a Bosch GL 195C was what I needed, so I bough one and fitted it. Engine ran perfectly again.

Yesterday on my regular monthly trip to Melbourne (200 mile round trip) the engine started to miss fire. Firstly it would not idle, then as I progressed, the problem became worse, the engine would cut out for a second or so, then fire up again with a nice loud explosion from the exhaust.

We struggled on and got home. This morning I swapped the 400-mile-old rotor for a known good second hand one and once again perfect running.

My parts supplier is now endeavouring to obtain another brand of rotor for me. In a week, my wife and I are off on a jaunt of about 2,500 miles in the SE and I would like to have a good spare with me.

Has anyone else had problems with Mr (or is it Herr) Bosch's products? This one was packaged in Australia, but the card states 'Made in United Kingdom'. It could be that I have been unlucky and bought the only dodgy one of the batch, but I think a different brand might bring peace of mind.
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Dane- roverdriver but not a Viking.

[ukdave2002]

Hi

Its a common problem with Lucas rotor arms as well although they usually last more than 400 miles!!, the symptoms I have experienced (on my side valve Morris) were;
when the engine was cold no problems, as the engine heats up you begin to get misfires, if you try and start it hot; no chance!!

Took me ages to find the fault, I was convinced the problem was fuel related as it occurred when I first started using unleaded and it had all the symptoms of fuel vaporisation. I only found it after acquiring a Crypton analyser, and then the problem showed up straight away! Talking to a mechanic some time later it was apparently a very common problem, reinforcing the fact that the distributor cap and rotor arms are service items .

I don’t know what ignition system your Rover has ? but the CD systems were starting to get popular about that time, with the higher voltages things like plug leads, dizzy cap and rotor arms have to be in tip top condition otherwise the slightest insulation breakdown will cause a misfire, could it be that the rotor arm although looking physically the same was not the correct one? Or maybe you wee just unlucky !

Cheers Dave

[Nic Jarman]

For Lucas rotor arms try these people,
www.theelectricalpartscompanyltd.com
They claim they have the original Lucas paterns.
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1936 Morris 8 Series 1
1973 MGB roadster
1977 MG Midget 1500
Dax Rush

[roverdriver]

Thanks for the comments and suggestion. With what my supplier can find, plus my known good second hand one, and a set of crossed fingers, I hope the long jaunt will work out. It is obviously something that I need to find a proper cure for, so will contact the Link you gave me, Nic, unless I can find some NOS ones, as suggested on another forum.
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Dane- roverdriver but not a Viking.

[Jim.Walker]

This thread set me musing.
In over 50 years of motoring both at work and in my own vehicles on which I did most of the maintenance I have never had a rotor arm fail. Most of the vehicles had Lucas ignition.

Now I have a problem with very dry hands and usually have great difficulty with plastic bags and cellophane paper because I cannot let go of the things (static).

Could it be that sweaty or oily hands leave deposits on rotor arms which induce them to track? Just a thought.

Incidentally the roadside check of a rotor arm is to remove the distributor cap, leave the rotor arm in-situ, hold the coil lead about 3mm away from the rotor conductor strip and flick the points (ignition on). If you get a spark it is faulty.
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Quote from my late Dad:- You only need a woman and a car and you have all the problems you
are ever likely to want". Computers had not been invented then!

[rubythursday]

The rotor arm has a resistor built into it for radio supression, it is this that fails. Solder a piece of wire accross it and you will have no furher problems.

[Nic Jarman]

I think what most of the rotor arm failures we are talking (typing) about are the Chinees made arms that have a rivet that shorts out.
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1936 Morris 8 Series 1
1973 MGB roadster
1977 MG Midget 1500
Dax Rush

[Jim.Walker]

No one here has mentioned the air-gap between rotor blade and the distributor segments. The electricity has to jump that gap and should the gap become too great because of rotor tip erosion or segment erosion the rotor arm may fail. The gap resistance can be tested on a Crypton analyser or such, but for mere mortals visual inspection is the only way. Any sign of excess erosion on either part, replace it.
UKDAVE2002 blames voltage increases with capacitor discharge systems. Although such systems are capable of developing higher voltages, NO ignition system can deliver a voltage higher than necessary to break down all the resistances in the circuit. Even old fashioned coil/contact breaker systems are capable of voltages up to 30,000 volts, but rarely run at more than 20,000 volts unless plug gaps are too wide etc. and that voltage falls dramatically as soon as the plug gap is ionised (sparking).
_________________
Quote from my late Dad:- You only need a woman and a car and you have all the problems you
are ever likely to want". Computers had not been invented then!

[roverdriver]

My supplier located some Champion brand rotors. They are marked 'Made in Italy'. The 'Bosch' one that failed had no markings at all.
I fitted a Champion one, carrying another Champion as well as a known-good old one as spares. My wife and I have just completed a little jaunt of 4,933 K's from Southern Victoria, to North of Brisbane and back. The spares remained un-touched along with all my other 'just in case' spare parts. I'll write about our trip shortly.
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Dane- roverdriver but not a Viking.

[Jonv8]

[Phil Lincoln]

In the Uk ,there are many rotors being sold as genuine Lucas parts when they are Chinese imports.My Rover 95 had one which disintegrated on return from passing its MOT after ten years off the road.
Try The Distributor Doctor ( he has a web site ).He is having rotor arms made to original quality.
I have one on the car and another in the boot ,just in case.
Regards to all ,
Phil

[Jim.Walker]

I'll endorse the Distributor Doctor recommendation. He seems to have new ignition parts that do not seem to be available elsewhere any longer.
_________________
Quote from my late Dad:- You only need a woman and a car and you have all the problems you
are ever likely to want". Computers had not been invented then!