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Talbot woes
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Nic Jarman



Joined: 05 Oct 2008
Posts: 1031
Location: Stoke by Clare, Suffolk

PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 11:16 pm    Post subject: Talbot woes Reply with quote

The Talbot has developed a clattering noise recently that is very noticable at 2000+ revs. I had suspected the clutch and disconnecting the clutch would confirm this. Either the engine has to come out or the transmission and as I want to run the engine then it will have to be the transmission. As it has a torque tube the rear axle will have to go back to drop the gearbox. Might as well check the rear brakes while I am there.
Make puller tool.

As I do not want to damage the back plates by accident I will remove them.

Yep, quite a size and the shoes will need relining. The fronts are even bigger.

The axle was removed from its mounts and slid back far enough to slide the propshaft from the gearbox. The brake splitter/actuator unit has to be removed from the back of the gearbox first.

Once the propshaft and torque tube are out of the way the gearbox and clutch come off fairly easily.

I ran the engine and the clattering was still present. Oh dear this now sounds expensive. Top end off next.
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
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Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 9:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Nic,

Whilst sympathetic to your need to get things sorted it's really good to see the innards of the Talbot. Great stuff.

Thirty years ago I had a Sunbeam Alpine that developed a little clatter from the vicinity of the bellhousing. Having come across other cars where the fingers of the diaphram spring had broken off I convinced myself that this noise fitted well with that cause.

I took the engine out and replaced the clutch but no missing fingers were found and when I restarted the engine the noise was still there.

The exhaust system had two down pipes that joined in a Y piece adjacent to the bellhousing and the little separator plate in the Y piece had become detatched! Rolling Eyes

Peter
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Nic Jarman



Joined: 05 Oct 2008
Posts: 1031
Location: Stoke by Clare, Suffolk

PostPosted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 12:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can anyone spot the mistake?

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dclf1947



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 107
Location: Laoag City, Philippines

PostPosted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 1:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the actual pull lever on the wrong side of the brake lever? Does not seem to have much movement?
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
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Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 2:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe I'm just seconding dclf's post but the lever should have the release to the front and not to the rear as at present.

Peter.
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Nic Jarman



Joined: 05 Oct 2008
Posts: 1031
Location: Stoke by Clare, Suffolk

PostPosted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 6:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The whole brake lever has been fitted the wrong way. It cranks towards the body and traps my hand when releasing the brake. It must have been like this for a long time, possibly when it was rebuilt in 1977!
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Nic Jarman



Joined: 05 Oct 2008
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Location: Stoke by Clare, Suffolk

PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 10:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Off with the head.

So be it.

There is a bit of rotary movement in piston No 6.
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Nic Jarman



Joined: 05 Oct 2008
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Location: Stoke by Clare, Suffolk

PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2009 11:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I have been Morris fettling for a while but I had to get going on the Talbot again so this evening I thought I would make a start on removing the engine, just a recky to see how difficult it is going to be. One thing led to another and before I knew it I was comitted to removing the engine. I should have taken off the lights bar but the hoist can lift the engine over it. As the car belongs to my partner Pat, she gave me a hand and between us the engine is out and on the floor. This is a big old lump and stripping it will take some planning. Watch this space.

The clutch bell housing is part of the sump.
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mikeC



Joined: 31 Jul 2009
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Location: Market Warsop, Nottinghamshire

PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 1:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Nic,
I have only just found this thread - sorry to learn of your problems. The rattle could be from the timing gears: my father had problems with his on a couple of occasions. If it's any consolation, the approved method of removing the engine is by removing the back axle first!
My father thought he could do it without removing the axle, and he could.... by completely dismantling the engine in situ, and removing the block, leaving the crank and flywheel still there attached to the clutch and gearbox. The second time, he removed the back axle Very Happy
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Nic Jarman



Joined: 05 Oct 2008
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Location: Stoke by Clare, Suffolk

PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 1:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Mike, I removed the rear axle first because I thought the noise was clutch related, OK I hoped it was. It is a journey of discovery on a car of this vintage. I was looking at the gear on the end of the camshaft last night, it is huge.
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Nic Jarman



Joined: 05 Oct 2008
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Location: Stoke by Clare, Suffolk

PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 11:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am struggling to understand this. The big end on cylinder 6 is OK. The little end has quite a lot of movement in it. How can this be? It should be firmly clamped in place and the gudgeon pin rotates in the piston. I also found that the plug at the end of the oil pump was very loose - you can see it in the picture. If it had fallen off this may have caused a catastophic failure. I have found a few other things that I am not happy about and this was rebuilt by a specialist, I will be having a word with him.

Have a close up

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mikeC



Joined: 31 Jul 2009
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Location: Market Warsop, Nottinghamshire

PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 5:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nic Jarman wrote:
I am struggling to understand this. The big end on cylinder 6 is OK. The little end has quite a lot of movement in it. How can this be? It should be firmly clamped in place and the gudgeon pin rotates in the piston.


Nic,
the gudgeon pin should be an interference fit in the con-rod, with the pinch bolt merely there to stop the pin spinning. We found that many 14/45 & 65 con rods had been cut to provide a slot (like an Austin Seven con rod) so that the pinch bolt then tightened the little end to clamp the gugeon pin. It would be worth checking to see what your con rod is like (and check the others, too).
It sounds like the rebuild has been a bit of a bodge Sad
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Nic Jarman



Joined: 05 Oct 2008
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Location: Stoke by Clare, Suffolk

PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 2:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Archers of Dunmow have found a conrod and I will be getting it this coming week. I am picking up the brake shoes and clutch that have been relined on monday. So the Talbot should be back on the road by Xmas.
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Nic Jarman



Joined: 05 Oct 2008
Posts: 1031
Location: Stoke by Clare, Suffolk

PostPosted: Thu May 13, 2010 4:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Morris is running way over time so the Talbot has slipped into its slot. The conrod was fitted but it felt just a bit too tight so I used a stanley blade to gently scrap it and that did the trick.

The head is the next job and a decoke while it is off. It seemed that the valves had been replaced but to my horror one of the old and badly burned exhaust valves had been refitted! Fortunately Archers still carry them in stock and for £16.40 it's the cheapest bit of that car. The inlet valves have quite a lot of carbon build up but the inlets are pretty clear. The car has been running extreemly rich so that will have to be delt with.

The sump has been cleaned so I will be able to pop the engine back together.

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47p2



Joined: 24 Nov 2007
Posts: 2009
Location: Glasgow

PostPosted: Thu May 13, 2010 5:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good to see it all coming together again
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