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HOW NOT TO WIRE
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Nic Jarman



Joined: 05 Oct 2008
Posts: 1031
Location: Stoke by Clare, Suffolk

PostPosted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 9:37 pm    Post subject: HOW NOT TO WIRE Reply with quote

I would think by now I would be imune to bad wiring but it still gets to me. This is absolutely how not to make an earth point. After running out of black wire just put some brown wire in there, no confussion then! Find a screw that is passivate coated as this is non-conductive and don't clear the paint from the chassis. Get a stetson and some spurs out, jump on a horse and shout "ride 'em cowboy, ye-ha".

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1936 Morris 8 Series 1
1973 MGB roadster
1977 MG Midget 1500
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Fluffle-Valve



Joined: 30 Dec 2009
Posts: 521
Location: At my computer in a bungalow in Duston, Northampton.

PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 12:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pah, terrible... Rolling Eyes
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Series 3 1972 LWB Truck Cab Pick Up. My daily drive.
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Brian M



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 783
Location: Leigh-on-Sea, Essex

PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 8:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK Nic - agree with your point but what is the 10 pin multi plug doing there?
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Brian
1970 Volvo Amazon and 1978 Safari 15-4 Caravan
Classic Safari Forum: www.classicsafaris.co.uk
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Riley Blue



Joined: 18 Jun 2008
Posts: 1750
Location: Derbyshire

PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 8:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know exactly what you mean, I just removed a couple of non-matching reversing lamps a previous owner had fitted to my Riley and refitted the front fog and driving lamps - never seen so many bodged connections before (wires twisted together and wrapped in insulating tape), horrific really when all it needed to do it properly was a handful of bullet connectors.
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Nic Jarman



Joined: 05 Oct 2008
Posts: 1031
Location: Stoke by Clare, Suffolk

PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 10:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brian don't ask, alright it is supposed to connect the indicators and the coolant temp sensor but the wiring is a mess and it is disconnected so I can point to point the loom.
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1977 MG Midget 1500
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PAUL BEAUMONT



Joined: 27 Nov 2007
Posts: 1281
Location: Barnsley S. Yorks

PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 1:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like it might have had an illicit relationship with a Ford!!!! Embarassed
Paul
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Nic Jarman



Joined: 05 Oct 2008
Posts: 1031
Location: Stoke by Clare, Suffolk

PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 1:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The engine is from a 1988 Sierra 2ltr EFI pinto with fast road cam and ported/polished head. It should be faster than a Morris Bullnose.
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1977 MG Midget 1500
Dax Rush
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Brian M



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 783
Location: Leigh-on-Sea, Essex

PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 1:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nic Jarman wrote:
.........it is supposed to connect the indicators and the coolant temp sensor........


No wonder you are having problems - why would you want to do that?

So the hazards flash as you boil over?

Or so the temp guage clicks in time with the indicators?

Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy
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Brian
1970 Volvo Amazon and 1978 Safari 15-4 Caravan
Classic Safari Forum: www.classicsafaris.co.uk
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ukdave2002



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4100
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Sat Sep 11, 2010 7:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

And can I also see one of those horrible "DIY store" blue insulated crimps in the bottom RH corner?
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Nic Jarman



Joined: 05 Oct 2008
Posts: 1031
Location: Stoke by Clare, Suffolk

PostPosted: Sun Sep 12, 2010 4:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dave, I had a look at the crimps and they are OK quality, also he has used a propper crimp tool. Shocked
Good crimps from RSonline.
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captain bobo



Joined: 02 Feb 2012
Posts: 43
Location: South West Cambs

PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's a picture from my 1937 Daimler 15 when I bought it. The RJF20 regulator / cut out / fusebox regulation function had failed so the owner had wired in an RB106 regulator / cutout in parallel: all four wires the same colour brown as you can see.

I temporarily labelled the wires with duck tape as you can also see. The brown wire extensions (some of which carry 18 amps) had been extended by twisting the bare ends together!

I linked the wires properly and eventually managed to find a working RJF20.


Best wishes, Dave B
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Posts: 7113
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 12:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qudpRXZE3Yo&NR=1&feature=endscreen

Laughing
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Fluffle-Valve



Joined: 30 Dec 2009
Posts: 521
Location: At my computer in a bungalow in Duston, Northampton.

PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 2:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

peter scott wrote:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qudpRXZE3Yo&NR=1&feature=endscreen

Laughing

Barb Wire... Brilliant... Very Happy
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D4B



Joined: 28 Dec 2010
Posts: 2083
Location: Hampshire UK

PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 9:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

peter scott wrote:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qudpRXZE3Yo&NR=1&feature=endscreen

Laughing
Laughing Laughing Laughing
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62rebel



Joined: 03 Dec 2007
Posts: 343
Location: Charleston, South Carolina

PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 4:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

when i worked for VW/Audi; our techs often had to make up "overlays" to bypass troublesome circuits on vehicles they were working on. often, these overlays remained in service on the vehicle......
we have ONE COLOUR of wire. the techs would run ONE WIRE AT A TIME... until the "repair" was completed......
God help the NEXT tech to work on that vehicle.

this is a current practice, as well; not ancient history. beware of the Audi/VW with electrical issues........... you're warned.
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