Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.
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Miken
Joined: 24 Dec 2012 Posts: 544
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Posted: Fri Jun 29, 2018 9:51 am Post subject: Head nuts |
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What would be a suitable torque setting for the cylinder head nuts on a vintage 4 cylinder side valve engine with everything in good condition, new studs/nuts and flat faces?
Nuts/studs are M12 x1.5 .
Thanks
Mike |
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Kleftiwallah
Joined: 27 Oct 2016 Posts: 222 Location: North Wiltshire
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Posted: Sat Aug 11, 2018 9:57 am Post subject: |
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This is absolutely no use to at all but...
A very old instructor (he started his career on steam wagons! Answered a similar question put forward by myself on torque loading in general.
He said " Tighten it until it shears then back it off a flat"!
I should just 'feel for it' and than re-tighten later on after a few miles but how did you get metric nuts on a vintage engine?
Cheers, Tony. _________________ It may work in practice, but not necessarily in theory! |
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Keith D
Joined: 16 Oct 2008 Posts: 1128 Location: Upper Swan, Western Australia
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Posted: Sat Aug 11, 2018 3:36 pm Post subject: |
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Morris Cowleys and Oxfords (vintage years bullnose and flatnose models) used Hotchkiss engines from the French company. When William Morris bought them out in about 1919, he made his bolts with the metric threads but made them using imperial hex rod.
Keith _________________ 1926 Chrysler 60 tourer
1932 Austin Seven RN long wheelbase box sedan
1950 Austin A40 tourer
1999 BMW Z3
Its weird being the same age as old people.
You are either part of the problem or part of the solution |
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Kleftiwallah
Joined: 27 Oct 2016 Posts: 222 Location: North Wiltshire
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Posted: Sun Aug 12, 2018 11:02 am Post subject: |
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Many thanks for the technical info' Keith D.
Cheers, Tony. _________________ It may work in practice, but not necessarily in theory! |
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Kleftiwallah
Joined: 27 Oct 2016 Posts: 222 Location: North Wiltshire
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Posted: Sun Aug 12, 2018 2:51 pm Post subject: |
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Good afternoon Miken,
I may be able to help. I've just been searching through the 'bumf' in the shed for some information not related and came across a booklet entitled "Nut tightening torque data" by Britool for Automobiles, Engines, Tracxtors and Sparking plugs.
Ifg you could tell me what vintage engine it is, I'll see if it's covered.
Cheers, Tony. _________________ It may work in practice, but not necessarily in theory! |
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Miken
Joined: 24 Dec 2012 Posts: 544
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Posted: Wed Aug 15, 2018 5:19 am Post subject: |
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All sorted now. The bullnose Morris club who supply the gaskets , nuts and studs recommend 65 ft/lb.
Thanks, Mike |
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Kleftiwallah
Joined: 27 Oct 2016 Posts: 222 Location: North Wiltshire
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Posted: Wed Aug 15, 2018 10:42 am Post subject: |
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Nice to hear you have sussed it.
Cheers, Tony. _________________ It may work in practice, but not necessarily in theory! |
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roverdriver
Joined: 18 Oct 2008 Posts: 1210 Location: 100 miles from Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
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Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2018 7:27 am Post subject: |
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In the days before the universal ownership of torsion wrenches, it was generally assumed that the standard spanner was design to give the correct tension on a nut if just reasonable pressure was applied. I know that means that a strong person would apply more than an average person, but the spanner itself was the key. Small diameter bolts has small nuts and a small, short length spanner. As the bolt/nut size increases, so to does the length of the shaft of the spanner. This is no accident, it was carefully designed that way. The longer the shaft, the greater the pressure that can be applied at the nut. Often car tool kits had a specially designed spanner for those nuts that needed extra torque, so the kit had a special spanner for the job. Model T and A Fords had a special head stud spanner, and I believe other makes in the same period also worked the same way. _________________ Dane- roverdriver but not a Viking. |
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