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WL3 ignition light
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Austin100



Joined: 06 Nov 2018
Posts: 44
Location: Denton

PostPosted: Fri Mar 01, 2019 8:27 pm    Post subject: WL3 ignition light Reply with quote

Hi
The car is a 1946 10gs1 I think the type of indicator lamp is commonly used.
I am trying to remove the wl3 ignition indicator lamp assembly from the dash it won't come out!
I have disconnected the wires and removed the chrome bezel and bulb but I cannot see how it comes out.
Does it screw in half or does the large spring have to come out from the back.
There most probably is a simple explanation 😤
Thanks
Peter


Last edited by Austin100 on Fri Mar 01, 2019 9:05 pm; edited 1 time in total
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47Jag



Joined: 26 Jun 2008
Posts: 1480
Location: Bothwell, Scotland

PostPosted: Fri Mar 01, 2019 9:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Peter,

From (dodgy) memory these are secured from behind with a spring and (I think) a locking ring.

I’ve just had a thought and checked EBay and that’s the way it is. Do a search on Lucas WL3 lamp. There are a few with multiple pictures

Art
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Austin100



Joined: 06 Nov 2018
Posts: 44
Location: Denton

PostPosted: Fri Mar 01, 2019 9:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks art
I had looked at those pictures but couldn't see anything although now you say it there must be something locking it in. It's looks like on closer inspection of the pictures the spring sits against a metal ring that most probably will turn and therefore come off.
It's awkward under the dash especially if it's not been off for 70 years.
Thanks
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Austin100



Joined: 06 Nov 2018
Posts: 44
Location: Denton

PostPosted: Fri Mar 01, 2019 9:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Art
On even closer inspection of those pictures it looks like a circlip of some type needs to be removed.
Peter
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ukdave2002



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4104
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Fri Mar 01, 2019 9:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Be careful when removing the lamp, the WL3's have a fine coil that can easily be damaged.

Dave
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Austin100



Joined: 06 Nov 2018
Posts: 44
Location: Denton

PostPosted: Sat Mar 02, 2019 12:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Dave
But I think that is the problem the fine wires seem to be broken ie I can see them sticking out.
When I remove it I will check but I think it is knackered !!!
Peter
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47Jag



Joined: 26 Jun 2008
Posts: 1480
Location: Bothwell, Scotland

PostPosted: Sat Mar 02, 2019 12:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Peter,

Yes the ring only moves a little bit to clear the lugs. It then is pulled into the car-side of the dash with the wires getting guided through the spring and lock ring (assuming there is sufficient free length) with care. As Dave says there is a fine resistor wired around the body which can be easily broken.

Why do you want/need to remove it anyway? Is the lamp dead and you have changed the bulb? If so this could be because the resistor wire is already broken in which case the resistor can be shorted out and a 12 volt MES bulb used.

Art
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Austin100



Joined: 06 Nov 2018
Posts: 44
Location: Denton

PostPosted: Sat Mar 02, 2019 6:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Art
I have managed to get it out and the fine wires look like "Ken Dodds" hair all over the place!!
I have tested the main wires with a new bulb 12v and I am getting power.
I was going to buy one off eBay at about £30 but you suggest shorting existing unit but with a 12v bulb is that correct.
Peter
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47Jag



Joined: 26 Jun 2008
Posts: 1480
Location: Bothwell, Scotland

PostPosted: Sat Mar 02, 2019 8:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Peter,

Yes, I reckon if you short out the resistor and use a 12 volt bulb you should be back in business. I think the reason Lucas used the resistor was that the warning lamp could be used in 6 & 12 volt systems. I could be wrong but that’s my theory.

Art
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Bitumen Boy



Joined: 26 Jan 2012
Posts: 1735
Location: Above the snow line in old Monmouthshire

PostPosted: Sat Mar 02, 2019 9:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

47Jag wrote:
Peter,

Yes, I reckon if you short out the resistor and use a 12 volt bulb you should be back in business. I think the reason Lucas used the resistor was that the warning lamp could be used in 6 & 12 volt systems. I could be wrong but that’s my theory.

Art


I'm sure I read somewhere that small 12v bulbs simply weren't available back then, and the resistance coil was the workaround.
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ukdave2002



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4104
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Sun Mar 03, 2019 10:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The reason for the resistance is to improve the service life of the the bulb as the warning lamp obviously won't fail in a safe mode.

The 6v warning lamps use a 2.5v bulb, back in the 30's these were readily available as were commonly used in torches, and have the advantage that being low voltage the filaments are really robust. The resistance limits the voltage to the bulb, when bulbs are operated at 5% less than there designed voltage the life expectancy doubles 10% less it quadruples etc.

The normal approach to getting round a broken coil is to short it out and fit a higher voltage bulb, so for a 6v system use a 9v bulb.

We stock the repro units they retail at £16.20 this includes vat:
http://morrisregisterspares.co.uk/?product=wl300-lucas-style-wl3-ignition-warning-lamp-6v

Dave
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Austin100



Joined: 06 Nov 2018
Posts: 44
Location: Denton

PostPosted: Sun Mar 03, 2019 12:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

To all
I have done what was suggested ie shorting it and it now works fine.
Just got to get the thing back in place from behind the dash, seems like you needs four hands ie holding in place compressing the spring and getting that c shaped clip back!!!
Thanks for the advice.
Peter
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47Jag



Joined: 26 Jun 2008
Posts: 1480
Location: Bothwell, Scotland

PostPosted: Sun Mar 03, 2019 2:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dontcha love it when a plan comes together?

Art
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Austin100



Joined: 06 Nov 2018
Posts: 44
Location: Denton

PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2019 5:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the wl3 back and it works just great.
A tip for anybody putting one back in with the dash in place, the large spring that holds it against the dash compress by hand fully and tie with a couple bits of cotton before assembly, then place the wl3 body in the dash and assembly spring and retaining washer from the rear of the dash and then put u shaped clip on and push into place. Then cut the cotton with a blade and the spring tightens as it should.
This eliminates having to compress spring and try to get the u shaped clip in at the same time in limited space 😀😀
Peter
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