Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

Ray White · Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6302 Location: Derby

In the cold light of day, the answer to the problem became obvious. I hadn't noticed that the new pump doesn't have a grease point. The bearings are sealed which obviates the need for the thick felt sealing washer and when fitted without it the pulleys lined up just fine!!

Rootes75 · Posted: Sun Mar 15, 2020 2:12 pm Post subject:

Not a good morning with the rebuild of our 55 Minx engine. I managed to snap a gudgeon pin circlip and we dont have any spare!

We then couldnt find the valve grinding tool either, a pretty much wasted morning.
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Various Rootes Vehicles.

Ray White · Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6302 Location: Derby

I struggled to remove a couple of taper pins from the clutch shaft in the old (broken) bell housing and ended up drilling them out. I had hoped to re use the shaft but it is too badly worn so I have ordered a new one.

New clutch forks are not currently available so I shall re use the original but I have ordered a new clutch release bearing. The clutch cover has been balanced and a new clutch plate came with the 5 speed gearbox conversion.

Another job was to remove the pilot bush from the end of the crankshaft. I followed a long established method of firstly making a cut in the brass bush with a hack saw blade then filling the hole with engine oil and whacking a close fitting length of bar into the hole. The hydraulic effect easily removed the bush.

I then turned up a brass drift to be a close fit in the new bush and gently tapped it into place.

I also took the opportunity of offering up the new bell housing to the engine. Just as well I did because it wouldn't fit on the dowels and I had to carefully relieve the holes with a round file. Eventually, after several attempts, the new bell housing went on and (in my opinion) looks good.!

I am a Dremmel fan and I have lost count the times I reach for it. The little brass by pass elbow (which I intend to use for a heater take off) came up a treat. Shame to paint it!

Here, the new 5 speed gearbox is waiting to be united with the bell housing and engine. Peter Gamble of Hi Gear Engineering makes a lovely job of rebuilding Ford Type 9 gearboxes. Everything inside is brand new. Mine even has a higher (modified) first gear and revering light switch.!

Not cheap but should pay dividends in terms of performance when mated to the higher rear axle and increased power output. At least that's the hope.

ukdave2002 · Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4104 Location: South Cheshire

I intend to fit a type 5 to my MGA using the Hi Gear kit, I have a couple of type 5's but not looked in them yet....

Dave

Clactonguy · Joined: 20 Mar 2018 Posts: 104 Location: clacton on sea

well not much doing it seems .though have started car and do give it a quick run around to keep things working etc . handbrake still an issue but seems rover P6 have a rep in that area. Though I am assured most are. fully Ok so it's just mine having issues ..oh well 2day will get car out and just warm engine and try handbrake a few times. tempting as it is to try a bazooka or flame thrower to solve issues . Shocked

MikeEdwards · Joined: 25 May 2011 Posts: 2467 Location: South Cheshire

I've put the door back on my Audi this afternoon, so I can make sure the sill lines up when I fit it. It'll have to come off again for some more cleaning and de-rusting, but it's OK for now. The sill isn't bad, just needs trimming down and a few little adjustments.

I also popped out to a local trim shop to get a bit more headlining material, as it looks like I'll have time to work on the inside of the Firenza.

Ray White · Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6302 Location: Derby

Here is a dilemma. The clutch release bearing carrier is located on it's 5/8" shaft by a Woodruff key but there is nothing to prevent it from drifting from side to side within the limitations of the carbon thrust bearing and shaft.

A previous owner must have had problems in this area because they had fitted a peg which I found troublesome to remove. The hole is visible in the photo.

Whether it is the right thing to do or not I have chosen not to drill this new shaft (it may be too hard anyway) and have drifted the fork along a bit, applied a little Loctite, then drifted the fork back again. I also applied some glue to the hole.

norustplease · Joined: 11 Apr 2011 Posts: 779 Location: Lancashire

This project deserves its own thread.
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1953 Citroen Traction
1964 Volvo PV544
1957 Austin A55 Mk 1
Boring Tucson SUV

Ray White · Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6302 Location: Derby

Penman · Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4755 Location: Swindon, Wilts.

Hi
Here is the main thread for Ray's car
https://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk/forum/phpbb/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=21060
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Bristols should always come in pairs.

Any 2 from:-
Straight 6
V8 V10

Rick · Site Admin Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 22437 Location: UK

alastairq · Joined: 14 Oct 2016 Posts: 1950 Location: East Yorkshire

I always look at it....I get prompts in my email.
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Dellow Mk2, 1951 built, reg 1952.
Fiat 126 BIS
Cannon special [1996 registered. Built in 1950's]
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Ford Pop chassis, Ashley 1172 bodyshell, in pieces.

ukdave2002 · Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4104 Location: South Cheshire

Ray White · Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6302 Location: Derby

As far as the taper pin is concerned, the original one didn't go right through the shaft so I had to drill it out to remove the assembly.

I bought some new taper pins but only used one - on the clutch lever. The new pins are made of plasticine...

Future posts will be on the MG thread.

peter scott · Joined: 18 Dec 2007 Posts: 7117 Location: Edinburgh

Replaced the battery in the Mondeo today. It was still able to start the car but was the original Ford equipment with a label stating "First Charge April 2004."
Can't really complain at that.

Peter
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http://www.nostalgiatech.co.uk
1939 SS Jaguar 2 1/2 litre saloon