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Where am I going wrong?
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MVPeters



Joined: 28 Aug 2008
Posts: 822
Location: Northern MA, USA

PostPosted: Sat Aug 08, 2020 12:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chin up. Ray, you're almost there!

re the switches - if you haven't sent them back yet, they may be OK.
I think the nut on the shaft is not meant to be disturbed, if you slacken it, you should be able to rotate the shaft to re-align the contacts inside. Then lock it in place.
Use a separate nut or 2 to install the switch to the bulkhead.

re the battery - oddly enough there was a very similar thread on a MINI forum that I follow. The battery had plenty of voltage bits but no oomph - oomphs were added & all is now well. You should be able to charge that battery enough to get the motor spinning & once it is, it doesn't take as much current (oomph) to keep it turning over.
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Mike - MVPeters at comcast.net
2002 MINI Cooper 'S'
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6286
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Sat Aug 08, 2020 10:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

To be honest I didn't realise the nut should not be disturbed. I had planned on re purposing the "mousetrap" to mount the switch. I can't secure the switch flush with the mousetrap without removing the nut and fitting it on the inside.




That's a bug88r.

I will have the battery on charge to see what happens. I really didn't want to shell out on a new one until the car was more or less completed.

Things are not the same when you have your income slashed.
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Peter_L



Joined: 10 Apr 2008
Posts: 2680
Location: New Brunswick. Canada.

PostPosted: Sat Aug 08, 2020 12:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You don't need to switch the high current to the starter. Find a switch that you can adapt aesthetically with the "Mousetrap". Wire the motor direct to the battery and use the switch to activate the solenoid.

Switch examples via Google "Momentary Pull Switches"

This looks nice https://brillman.com/product/momentary-pull-switch/
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6286
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Sat Aug 08, 2020 1:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Peter_L wrote:
You don't need to switch the high current to the starter. Find a switch that you can adapt aesthetically with the "Mousetrap". Wire the motor direct to the battery and use the switch to activate the solenoid.

Switch examples via Google "Momentary Pull Switches"

This looks nice https://brillman.com/product/momentary-pull-switch/


Yes, they look nice but I have spent ages sourcing ivory coloured knobs and switches to match on the instrument panel. Also, this type of cable pull starter switch has been fine on thousands of MG TDs so a TC upgrade shouldn't be a problem. Octagon Club spares people have not had one returned before so this must just be a bad batch..... ether that or I am fitting it incorrectly. Embarassed
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6286
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Sat Aug 08, 2020 1:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Incidentally here is a close up shot of the main cable
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alastairq



Joined: 14 Oct 2016
Posts: 1950
Location: East Yorkshire

PostPosted: Sat Aug 08, 2020 2:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Golly gosh...I had a pull switch for my Cannon Special...knobless....it got the sawn-off end of a wooden handled screwdriver, drilled and 'screwed' on...rather smart with its red stripes..
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Dellow Mk2, 1951 built, reg 1952.
Fiat 126 BIS
Cannon special [1996 registered. Built in 1950's]
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Ford Pop chassis, Ashley 1172 bodyshell, in pieces.
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6286
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Sat Aug 08, 2020 2:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

alastairq wrote:
Golly gosh...I had a pull switch for my Cannon Special...knobless....it got the sawn-off end of a wooden handled screwdriver, drilled and 'screwed' on...rather smart with its red stripes..


I'm sure it worked perfectly well whatever it's appearance .

My TC will need to go and look a bit special or it will have all been in vain.
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