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Fitting relays.
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MVPeters



Joined: 28 Aug 2008
Posts: 822
Location: Northern MA, USA

PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2020 6:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ray White wrote:
Mike you say run a heavy wire from the battery to all four relays. There is no wiring in the car at all at present but I have bought an expensive new wiring loom. Is this insufficient?

I had also forgotten the wiper motor. Originally this would have been operated by the switch on the unit itself but I will have it operated from a switch on the new dash. When I decided to move the ignition warning lamp I had a space available and that seemed like a sensible idea.


Not at all! Since it's all new, you may not even really need relays. If it's an exact repro of an original TC loom, I imagine there will be some minor mods needed anyway. In any event, it will be much easier to deal with modern wiring than old, brittle stuff.
No relay needed for the wiper.
I forget - are you fitting an alternator?
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6282
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2020 7:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes a 45 amp Stealth Dynamater is fitted on the car and I have a CSI electronic distributor and Bosch blue coil.
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MVPeters



Joined: 28 Aug 2008
Posts: 822
Location: Northern MA, USA

PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2020 1:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I imagine they all come with their own wiring diagrams. The alternator in particular could be quite tricky & not something you want to take any chances with.
When you get to the point of installing the new loom, I think it would be wise to enlist the help of an auto electrician before actually connecting it.
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ukdave2002



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4100
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2020 8:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ray getting back to the original reason for fitting a relay; "protecting switch's", which is a really good idea as contacts on these older switches can get hotter than is desirable.

As you are fitting a new loom, all of that wiring will be fine, you simply need fit the relay's between the loom and the switch (both electrically and physically), no need to add any new cables apart from the short bits of cable between the switch and relay, and an earth connection to each relay. The relays can be hidden out of sight behind the dash.

Dave
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6282
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2020 9:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ukdave2002 wrote:
Ray getting back to the original reason for fitting a relay; "protecting switch's", which is a really good idea as contacts on these older switches can get hotter than is desirable.

As you are fitting a new loom, all of that wiring will be fine, you simply need fit the relay's between the loom and the switch (both electrically and physically), no need to add any new cables apart from the short bits of cable between the switch and relay, and an earth connection to each relay. The relays can be hidden out of sight behind the dash.

Dave



I have been thinking about the old switches and right or wrong I have bought a new headlight/ignition switch.

I will still fit a relay to it if for no other reason than the quality of Lucas equipment cannot be relied on these days.

I will still be using the old horn button that is strangely mounted on the dash rather than on the steering wheel.

Actually, I have chosen to move it off the central metal instrument panel to a location on the far right of the dash because, to me, if I ever needed to use the horn I would automatically use my right hand rather than my left.

It also frees up a hole for one of my extra gauges so I don't have to make another hole in the wooden dash.
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alastairq



Joined: 14 Oct 2016
Posts: 1950
Location: East Yorkshire

PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2020 12:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I will still be using the old horn button that is strangely mounted on the dash rather than on the steering wheel.


Possibly because of difficulties with contacts, shorts, and disintegrating plastic parts on the steering wheel horn pushes? [If TC's had such things, of course?]
Or, if the steering wheel had in fact been swapped for one without a horn push system?

A dah mounted button is by far the best solution for a horn..nothing to aggravate the owner with?
My '67 Mustang came to me fitted with a Grant steering wheel [spawn-of-the-devil]...thoroughly disliked by enthusiasts, for their tendency of their horn mechanism to catch fire. Nowt worse than a fire right above one[s crotch, eh?
Also, the horn push[cover, plastic, with appropriate logo] could have a tendency to fly off onto the floor...
I am no fan of Grant wheels either...finding their 3 bolt [small ones at that!] fixing to the Grant hub to not be frightfully encouraging?
But I cannot afford the 250-odd quids for a decent Motolita kit...so I have eventually fettled the horn so it doesn't go off continuously at 3 o'clock in morning, for no apparent reason.
I think I've got the better of the beast for now?????

Usual fix by enthusiasts, is a horn switch somewhere underneath the dash.

Mustang dashboards not being conducive to the fitment of odd switches here or there, either.

Best of luck, keep the horn dash-wise.
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6282
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2020 2:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you so much Alastair. I really value the input from this forum.

Yes, I will be using the original bakelite horn push but instead of it being mounted on the central painted brass instrument panel ( where they always are on a TC) it will be still on the dash but over to the right hand side for reasons I have already given.

I am also moving the centrally mounted jack plugs and replacing them with a new (different) ignition/light switch. The jack plugs (I have bought a new set) can go elsewhere.

I am sure to get a lot of flack from TC purists but this is MY car and besides I am not doing anything that a future owner (when I am no longer around) couldn't return to "correct" as they so wish.
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