Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.
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badhuis
Joined: 20 Aug 2008 Posts: 1390 Location: Netherlands
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Posted: Sun Nov 29, 2020 7:22 pm Post subject: |
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Yes - saw that and edited it. _________________ a car stops being fun when it becomes an investment |
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Rick Site Admin
Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 22438 Location: UK
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Rootes75
Joined: 30 Apr 2013 Posts: 3804 Location: The Somerset Levels
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Posted: Sun Dec 06, 2020 2:17 pm Post subject: |
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Started the Commer again as it was nice weather out, she started very well and sat ticking over on choke for about 10 mins. We tried her again a little while later and found the starter stuck, this has happened 4 or 5 times now.
Each time we have to remove the starter to free it. This time with the starter out we checked the starter ring teeth, a check then crank her over a little ion the handle and check again etc. I can say now that the ring teeth are in awful condition, in one place over about 3 inches the teeth were reduced to just sharp spikes. No wonder the starter is having problems.
So decision made, replace the starter ring. A big job yes but essential in her starting correctly.
It will be another call to Speedy Spares. _________________ Various Rootes Vehicles. |
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MikeEdwards
Joined: 25 May 2011 Posts: 2467 Location: South Cheshire
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Posted: Sun Dec 06, 2020 7:31 pm Post subject: |
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As my records show I haven't run it since April, I thought I'd run the Sportshatch today. It started after a bit of persuasion, but there were a couple of fuel leaks from pipe unions which disappeared after tightening the clips. It also seems to be leaking a little where the pump joins the engine block, so I'll have to look at that as, if fuel is getting there, it will be going into the oil. |
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norustplease
Joined: 11 Apr 2011 Posts: 779 Location: Lancashire
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Posted: Thu Dec 10, 2020 11:11 pm Post subject: |
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Found a patch of oil on the drive under the 2CV after a brisk drive recently, so spent the afternoon trying to work out whether this is an actual leak, possibly from the crankcase to cylinder head oil feed union, or just the aftermath of a recent oil change where things backed up somewhat and overflowed the filler into the depths of the engine bay when pouring. The front of the engine was still fairly well oiled!
Hard to tell, so I dismantled the fan assembly and cleaned the front of the engine off. I will revisit when it has dried off tomorrow or Saturday, and run the engine to see what happens! _________________ 1953 Citroen Traction
1964 Volvo PV544
1957 Austin A55 Mk 1
Boring Tucson SUV |
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Rootes75
Joined: 30 Apr 2013 Posts: 3804 Location: The Somerset Levels
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Posted: Sun Dec 13, 2020 5:18 pm Post subject: |
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Started to tackle removing the gearbox and bellhousing from the Commer today.
It took two hours to simply remove 6 fixing bolts around the bellhousing. This was mainly due to access and two of them simply not budging. Needless to say its all still in place and we go again at it next weekend! _________________ Various Rootes Vehicles. |
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Rick Site Admin
Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 22438 Location: UK
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Posted: Sun Dec 13, 2020 5:42 pm Post subject: |
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norustplease wrote: | Found a patch of oil on the drive under the 2CV after a brisk drive recently, so spent the afternoon trying to work out whether this is an actual leak, possibly from the crankcase to cylinder head oil feed union, or just the aftermath of a recent oil change where things backed up somewhat and overflowed the filler into the depths of the engine bay when pouring. The front of the engine was still fairly well oiled!
Hard to tell, so I dismantled the fan assembly and cleaned the front of the engine off. I will revisit when it has dried off tomorrow or Saturday, and run the engine to see what happens! |
Aren't they prone to leaking around/from the oil pressure switch? Just a vague recollection.
RJ _________________ Rick - Admin
Home:https://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk
Videos:https://www.youtube.com/user/oldclassiccarRJ/videos
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norustplease
Joined: 11 Apr 2011 Posts: 779 Location: Lancashire
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Posted: Fri Dec 18, 2020 10:41 pm Post subject: |
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Yes, prone to leaking from all sorts of places, pressure switch, pushrod tubes and the oil feed from the crankcase to the cylinder heads which is an external pipe connected by banjo joints at each end....and also the front crank seal. Because it is air cooled, the fan blasts it all backwards across the bottom of the engine and it then drips off anywhere and it is the very devil to locate its origin.
Most do leak from somewhere, I was worried that the cylinder head oil feed pipe that I had replaced a few months ago, had sprung a leak at one of the joints.
However, I cleaned everywhere and then let it run whilst I went and made a cup of tea and it was still as clean as a whistle when I got back, so I concluded that it was the oil that I had spilled at a recent oil change that had finally run down and dripped off the sump fins. _________________ 1953 Citroen Traction
1964 Volvo PV544
1957 Austin A55 Mk 1
Boring Tucson SUV
Last edited by norustplease on Tue Dec 22, 2020 10:31 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Rootes75
Joined: 30 Apr 2013 Posts: 3804 Location: The Somerset Levels
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Posted: Sun Dec 20, 2020 11:20 pm Post subject: |
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Continued work on the Commer this morning. Still working on getting the gearbox out to replace the starter ring.
Was on my own today, usually Father joins me on a Sunday morning. I managed to remove the propshaft without damage to myself or the layrub couplings. _________________ Various Rootes Vehicles. |
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petelang
Joined: 21 May 2009 Posts: 442 Location: Nottingham
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Posted: Mon Dec 21, 2020 1:09 am Post subject: |
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I had been trying to separate a crankshaft from my old Armstrong Siddeley fifteen engine from its flywheel. Many attempts over the past six months, including using a ridiculous amount of calor gas in a burner to warm up the flywheel , then hanging the shift vertically and giving the flywheel a serious amount of clouting with a large lump hammer and blocks of timber. Nothing shifted it so I just stuck it in the corner of the garage again by the door.
Last week the engine builder asked me to send down the spare crank so I had to dig it out again.
Would you believe, I picked up the crank which was stood up vertical with the flywheel on the floor, and it just fell off!
Well, one problem solved...
Peter |
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Keith D
Joined: 16 Oct 2008 Posts: 1128 Location: Upper Swan, Western Australia
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Posted: Mon Dec 21, 2020 4:58 am Post subject: |
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When I restored my Chrysler fifteen or so years ago, I found the universals very badly worn. The universals were early Hardy-Spicer joints that did not contain roller bearings. The four ends simply rotated in the yokes, which over seventy five years had worn loose.
I had the yokes bored out to accept modern Hardy-Spicer joints with needle roller bearings. Unfortunately, because of the larger diameter, the holes broke out of the yoke. After some soul searching I decided to put the lot together and see how it went.
After many thousands of kilometres, the yokes have started to distort and have permitted movement in the joints, causing the car to vibrate badly. My poor decision at that time has come back to bite me on the bum. Now its time to bite the bullet.
I spent yesterday removing the tailshaft and after a serious measuring session, went and bought a second hand rear tailshaft from a Toyota Landcruiser. This is shorter than the original shaft, so a friend is making me up a couple of adaptor spacers to join the four bolt fixings of the universal yokes to the six stud flanges on the car.
Keith _________________ 1926 Chrysler 60 tourer
1932 Austin Seven RN long wheelbase box sedan
1950 Austin A40 tourer
1999 BMW Z3
Its weird being the same age as old people.
You are either part of the problem or part of the solution |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6303 Location: Derby
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Posted: Mon Dec 21, 2020 9:43 am Post subject: |
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Keith D wrote: | When I restored my Chrysler fifteen or so years ago, I found the universals very badly worn. The universals were early Hardy-Spicer joints that did not contain roller bearings. The four ends simply rotated in the yokes, which over seventy five years had worn loose.
I had the yokes bored out to accept modern Hardy-Spicer joints with needle roller bearings. Unfortunately, because of the larger diameter, the holes broke out of the yoke. After some soul searching I decided to put the lot together and see how it went.
After many thousands of kilometres, the yokes have started to distort and have permitted movement in the joints, causing the car to vibrate badly. My poor decision at that time has come back to bite me on the bum. Now its time to bite the bullet.
I spent yesterday removing the tailshaft and after a serious measuring session, went and bought a second hand rear tailshaft from a Toyota Landcruiser. This is shorter than the original shaft, so a friend is making me up a couple of adaptor spacers to join the four bolt fixings of the universal yokes to the six stud flanges on the car.
Keith |
An interesting problem, Keith. I presume the cost of sourcing replacements from the USA would be prohibitive?
I thought I would need to do a similar thing with the MG because the new rear springs had set the axle slightly forward. Fortunately, with the 5 speed gearbox (Ford T9) the prop has a long spline on it and it fitted O.K.
The only worry I have is that with the axle is pushed forward - even if only 1/2" - it could make rear wheel removal from the arch difficult. On some cars especially with new tyres, the tyre has to be deflated.
It's that 1/16" rule again ! |
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Rootes75
Joined: 30 Apr 2013 Posts: 3804 Location: The Somerset Levels
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Posted: Sun Dec 27, 2020 1:26 pm Post subject: |
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The plan is to removecthe wooden body of our Commer Q2 and rebuild it separately to the truck itself. This morning I have started the task of cleaning/oiling and removing 80 odd year old U bolts securing the body.
They are not playing ball as you can imagine. _________________ Various Rootes Vehicles. |
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Rick Site Admin
Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 22438 Location: UK
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Posted: Sun Dec 27, 2020 3:11 pm Post subject: |
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I decided to change the thermostat on my modern(ish) today. A new top hose was fitted a couple of months ago but I chickened out of trying to remove the two bolts holding the thermostat housing to the alloy water pump housing (Jeep Hemi), envisaging at least one of the bolts shearing off when I try to remove them.
But in a bid to try and raise the running coolant temperature (the LPG isn't kicking in as it should), I decided, finally, to swap the thermostat.
Needless to say, one of the two bolts sheared straight off, presumably having been overtightened in the past. The other one was fine. Fortunately the location of the bolt in the housing allows access to the rear face of the casting, so I was able to drill out the old bolt, and open it up a little to accept a replacement nut and bolt instead.
It's all back together now, the temperature hasn't altered so I'll book it in with the LPG place to have it plugged in and tweaked via his laptop.
It must now be the only Jeep driving around with 1/4" Whitworth fixings on its engine.
RJ _________________ Rick - Admin
Home:https://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk
Videos:https://www.youtube.com/user/oldclassiccarRJ/videos
OCC & classic car merchandise (Austin, Ford ++):
https://www.redbubble.com/people/OldClassicCar/shop |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6303 Location: Derby
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Posted: Sun Dec 27, 2020 5:45 pm Post subject: |
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Rick wrote: |
It must now be the only Jeep driving around with 1/4" Whitworth fixings on its engine.
RJ |
That's what you call a coarse thread.
(the bolt, I mean!) |
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