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MG TC
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Do you like or dislike the new dashboard ?
Yes I do like the new dashboard
100%
 100%  [ 7 ]
No I do not like the new dashboard
0%
 0%  [ 0 ]
Total Votes : 7

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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Posts: 6660
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2021 9:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When you start powering it all up don't use a car battery. Use a current limited power supply.

Peter
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 4330
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2021 10:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

peter scott wrote:
When you start powering it all up don't use a car battery. Use a current limited power supply.

Peter


Very good advice. We all know I am not very smart when it comes to electrics so I will have an auto electrician check out my work before I do anything. You would do it in your house; why not with your car.?
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Posts: 6660
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2021 11:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you don't have a current limited power supply then a battery charger is better than nothing. A 4 amp current limit is better than 250 amp current limit.

Peter
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
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Location: Derby

PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2021 11:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

peter scott wrote:
If you don't have a current limited power supply then a battery charger is better than nothing. A 4 amp current limit is better than 250 amp current limit.

Peter


Thank you Peter. I am not questioning your advice but I am a bit confused because I thought that using my test probes with a car battery was safe because the bulbs in them are only low wattage.
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Posts: 6660
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2021 11:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you haven't wired things exactly as you intended then there could be parts of the loom that are not protected by your extensive fuse system. If you limit your supply current then you won't burn out the wiring like you could do with the full capacity of a car battery.

Peter
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
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Location: Derby

PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2021 1:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could well be right which is why I am getting our local auto electrician to come over and check out all the electrics first. I expect to pay for his time but he is a classic car enthusiast and hopefully would quite enjoy the firing up party. Wink
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 4330
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Mon Jun 21, 2021 11:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My attention has turned towards fitting the body. It needs to align exactly central to the scuttle but thanks to Sod's law it is over to one side and the only way I could get it right was to take a round file to the fixing holes in the angle iron rails that fit the body to the chassis.

Having got the bulkhead / body about where I wanted it I discovered that the bottom holes in the scuttle perimeter flange would not allow a bolt to go through the wooden frame without fouling the angle iron on the other side. Twisted Evil I may just fit a hex head coach screw and not go right through the frame at the bottom. (Being exposed to the elements at this point, a nut would just go rusty. They always have to be cut off to get the bolt out anyway.)

With the bulkhead in about the right place I attempted to see how the bonnet would fit. I was pretty horrified to find that there was straight alignment on the off side but a big taper shape on the near side. This is about the worst possible outcome because it indicates something is bent somewhere. I would need to twist the body with packing in one corner to have it align with the bonnet meaning the bulkhead would be put out of alignment ... added to which the doors might not fit properly. A kind of knock on effect.

Another problem (as if I don't have enough) is that the double humped scuttle top - the only panel saved from the original body - will not fit onto the frame. I have been giving this issue a great deal of attention with little progress to show for it but I think it will co operate eventually.

There is a brace that links the rear wheel arches across the middle of the car. This cross brace is shaped like a bulls's horns and that is what - in T series circles - it is known as. This came out of my original body but does not fit the new one. It should fit the wheel arches snugly... it's not even close!

I don't possess a forge so I may need to remove it and take it with a drawing to Mr. Oldknow; our village blacksmith.





Having lost a couple of night's sleep over the above mentioned problems, I am now resolved to chilling out and fixing the problems by having fun with it. I may need to get creative... Shocked Very Happy
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 4330
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2021 6:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The new body tub has thrown up more problems.

The steering column support under the dash should be bolted to two of the bulkhead/frame fixing bolts. Unfortunately, a reinforcing bracket has been fitted directly in line with one of the bolt holes needed for the support.





To move the bracket to one side I needed to (again) move the body tub back to gain access to the screws that fix the top bonnet fillet in the engine compartment. With that piece of timber removed I gained access to the head of the machine screw holding the offending bracket.


With the reinforcing bracket removed from behind the dash the way was clear to drill a hole through the frame and attach the column support.



The tricky bit is retro fitting the reinforcing bracket because new holes need to be drilled in the frame and dashboard backing timber. Very careful measuring will be required. Confused

Here; the offending bracket!

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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Posts: 6660
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2021 6:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What strange thing for them to get wrong. You would have thought an experienced supplier of TC frames would not ship such a blatant mistake.

Peter
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Rick
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Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 21901
Location: UK

PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2021 6:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow you have the patience of a saint Ray, I'd be shutting the garage doors and staying away for a few weeks I think Shocked

Not having bought a frame for a car, is it usual for suppliers to build and supply a frame without having the chassis to hand for final measurements & fitting up etc? Like I say I've no idea how buying a new body frame takes place. Technically all chassis for a mass-produced car should have the same dimensions I suppose.

RJ
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 4330
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2021 7:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I seem to be making rather a lot of excuses for other people!

Of course, I would be far happier if I hadn't had to wait two years for the body tub because I would have the car finished by now.

Yes, I understand there were supply issues with Covid and illness is another valid excuse but it all gets a bit wearing after a time.

The cross brace is a headache because I can't get on with the trim until it is sorted. Having said that, I have no reason to believe that my new seat has been made yet which is frustrating because I have since found a firm in Nottingham (not far from Derby) who might have done it sooner.

I am also unhappy with the primer finish to the tub. It is a mess and will all have to come off! I requested an epoxy primer but that never happened.

ANYHOW....When the TC is finished I will have a properly usable MG built to my own design.

(now what about a neat little brake servo hidden under the floor.?? Wink ) Laughing
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Keith D



Joined: 16 Oct 2008
Posts: 1037
Location: Upper Swan, Western Australia

PostPosted: Wed Jul 07, 2021 6:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ray,

Possibly a stupid comment, but it it possible that the body with the reinforcing bracket in the way of the steering column support is in fact designed for a left hand drive car, as I believe many TC's were?

Keith
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 4330
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Wed Jul 07, 2021 9:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Keith D wrote:
Ray,

Possibly a stupid comment, but it it possible that the body with the reinforcing bracket in the way of the steering column support is in fact designed for a left hand drive car, as I believe many TC's were?

Keith


Hi Keith. I think you might possibly be thinking about the TD rather than the TC because although it is clear from surplus holes in the bulkhead/body flange that a LHD TC was planned, in fact none were ever built. Even the ones that were exported to America were RHD; as were the previous TA and TB models.

I measured the position of the matching supporting bracket on the left and it was further over than the one on the driver's side. I think I know how it happened; only one original bracket survived with my old body so I sent it (with some other brackets - including the bull horns cross brace) to Andrew Denton to include in the new frame. If a new bracket had to be made - or another one sourced from elsewhere, it may not have fitted in exactly the right place. My best guess is that the bracket was fitted where it touched and the consequences were simply not realised.

Not a problem now as I have drilled a new hole and fitted the countersunk machine screw. All I need to do is make sure the hole through the dash supporting timber lines up with the hole in the other end of the bracket and all is well. Very Happy
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alastairq



Joined: 14 Oct 2016
Posts: 1600
Location: East Yorkshire

PostPosted: Wed Jul 07, 2021 10:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Technically all chassis for a mass-produced car should have the same dimensions I suppose.


One would have hoped so?

In practice, I think chassis [and bodies, perhaps?] that were mass-produced would in fact be made within tolerances.
For example, my '67 Ford Mustang.
The bodyshells/frames were assembled by unskilled workers. No two panels would be stuck together in exactly the same place, every time. US Ford engineers built in tolerances. Which is why most, if not all mustangs [and other Fords of the era] leaked!
The windscreen 'hole', for example, was measured at plus, or minus, as much as around 1/4 inch or more! The windscreen glass would be mad all the same size [pretty much]. So one shell could have a decent fit, and the next cold have quite a large gap, around the glass, which was absorbed by the rubber seals...which more often than not, didn't! Ford themselves sent out to dealer, pamphlets which advised on how to sort out a customer who complained their new Ford car leaked!

Morgan, on the other hand, for may years, no two doors were ever the same size. They were individually produced to fit the prevailing hole.

Not until they developed the technique of Vacuum forming aluminium did Morgan produce all their front wings to exactly the same size.
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badhuis



Joined: 20 Aug 2008
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 07, 2021 10:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
There is a brace that links the rear wheel arches across the middle of the car. This cross brace is shaped like a bulls's horns and that is what - in T series circles - it is known as. This came out of my original body but does not fit the new one. It should fit the wheel arches snugly... it's not even close!


It would be nice if the brace would fit the wheel arches snugly, but it seems not mechanically necessary. The brace is there to keep the distance (car width) between the wooden wheel arch support members, not the metal wheel arches.
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