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Epoxy primer.
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6286
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Fri Jul 09, 2021 4:04 pm    Post subject: Epoxy primer. Reply with quote

I am thinking about using epoxy primer because of it's claimed rust prevention properties. My working conditions are not the best so anything I can do to mitigate the effects of falling temperatures and dampness overnight will help.

Has anyone tried this type of 'rattle can' primer.? It seems there are two types and the 2K looks better because it has added zink.

The cost is higher but I'm thinking it might pay off in the long run.?
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MikeEdwards



Joined: 25 May 2011
Posts: 2464
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Fri Jul 09, 2021 6:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I sprayed my previous project with epoxy primer for that same reason, but not with the aerosol version. It was pretty much the first thing I'd sprayed, so it's a bit difficult to offer much of an opinion.
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ukdave2002



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4100
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Fri Jul 09, 2021 6:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ray

Most primers absorb moisture, this can lead to micro bubbling months later.
Epoxy primer is great for us home restorers as it doesn't absorb moisture so panels can be left for a long time in primer prior to painting and it not toxic so unlike 2K doesn't require a load of protection when spraying.
Wipe all bare metal down with phosphoric acid prior to priming even if it looks completely rust free.

Dave
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6286
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Fri Jul 09, 2021 9:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like I will be using epoxy primer. I have ordered some today. It should arrive by Wednesday by which time the weather might have improved.

I keep an eye on my hygrometer. Humidity needs to be 50% or less for painting.
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Rootes75



Joined: 30 Apr 2013
Posts: 3788
Location: The Somerset Levels

PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2021 1:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

After a lot of asking around I chose to use Epoxy Primer on our 1950 Commer, its the first full cab that I had sprayed. I found it very easy to use and the result was a really good base for the coach enamel that I applied on top.

https://flic.kr/p/LpM2Li
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Mistert64



Joined: 12 Aug 2018
Posts: 5
Location: Edinburgh, Bonnie Scotland

PostPosted: Wed Aug 25, 2021 11:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does this stuff sand easily like normal primer?

What about reactions with existing paint - any issues or did you go back to bare metal?
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Miken



Joined: 24 Dec 2012
Posts: 544

PostPosted: Wed Aug 25, 2021 11:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mistert64 wrote:
Does this stuff sand easily like normal primer?

What about reactions with existing paint - any issues or did you go back to bare metal?


I've been using it the last few weeks on the repair work im doing on my pickup.
Small areas at a time.
I'm using Black Country paints high build zinc epoxy primer.
I'm applying it to bare metal. I remove the old paint with a stripper disc in my angle grinder.
Today I've been painting a front wing (off the car). Touch dry and just about handleable in about 3 hours. Can re coat after 12 hours. After 48 hours you should sand it before re coating. But a week to go really hard.
I find you can wet flat it carefully after 12 hours where I've had to apply a bit of filler and then re-prime over it.
I've sprayed cellulose top coat after 24-48 hours and it's been ok.
I've had one bit of reaction with the cellulose where I think I was a bit impatient and applied it too quickly to the un cured primer.
There have been areas where I have done a repair, epoxied over it and oversprayed onto an adjacent old cellulosed area. There has been no reaction there.
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Rootes75



Joined: 30 Apr 2013
Posts: 3788
Location: The Somerset Levels

PostPosted: Thu Aug 26, 2021 2:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found the only issue was let the Epoxy plenty of time to cure before attempting cutting it back. When its cured nice and hard I found it good to work with, I used coach enamels and that went on lovely with no reaction at all.

I did make sure also that the cab was back to bare metal first as I had been warned about it reacting and at the end of the day you don't know the make up of existing paints left on the metal.
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