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MG TC
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Do you like or dislike the new dashboard ?
Yes I do like the new dashboard
100%
 100%  [ 7 ]
No I do not like the new dashboard
0%
 0%  [ 0 ]
Total Votes : 7

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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6284
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Fri Aug 27, 2021 5:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have just had a look at a TC cross brace on another car with a replacement body...and it has a gap filled in with padding where I thought it was snug fitting as shown in photos of my original body.

It doesn't explain the wheel arches being slightly different one side from another but it would seem I don't now have as big a problem as I originally thought. Very Happy
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6284
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Mon Sep 06, 2021 6:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The cross brace is fitted at last. In the end I had to cut it in two and bend it to shape before welding it together again. Getting the two sections dead straight and in alignment was a bit tricky but eventually I made a reasonable job of it. Because the brace now fits the new wheel arches it is in a different place relative to the rear prop-shaft panel so I needed to drill some new fixing holes and bolt it in the new position. I welded up the unused holes.

Two 5/16" round head bolts secure the brace to the new wheel arches while wood screws tie it in each end. The fit is quite good so I am happy to leave it at that.

[url=https://postimages.org/[/url]




In other news I have been offering up the trim backing boards to the interior and doors. I requested the trimmers send me the boards so I could ensure the finished panels be a reasonable fit. I am glad they sent them because there are some glaring discrepancies. The new doors are particularly different to the cards which will need considerable alteration before they are trimmed.

A different matter is discovering some 5/16" holes have been drilled in the frame and doors. This has prevented me from fitting the locks and striker plates. The photo shows the holes which are much too big for the size 4 x1" wood screws. I have ordered some dowels but it has set me back a bit.



One reason this build is swallowing cash like a Camel drinks water is my keeping up the spec for it. I think these new door fittings look really nice.

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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6284
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Sat Sep 11, 2021 7:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This build never seems to get any easier. I have tried for hours to get the supplied trim backing boards to fit the interior but the new body is a slightly different shape compared to original... for which the trim kits are designed.

I have reluctantly decided to make my own. The plywood that the trimmers have supplied is 3mm but I have been unable to find anything less than 3.6mm. That is what I will be using.

The left hand door card is now almost ready for covering. I need to leave a clearance around the edge for the leather thickness (Mountbatten 1108 sand by UK Hide) which is between 1.2 and 1.4 mm thick . When I have made the remaining card and trim panels I shall return them to my trimmers who are also supplying the new seat.

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Peter_L



Joined: 10 Apr 2008
Posts: 2680
Location: New Brunswick. Canada.

PostPosted: Sat Sep 11, 2021 7:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Ray... .6mm on both sides, isn't that going to make the interior feel a little narrow ? Wink Laughing
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6284
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Sat Sep 11, 2021 9:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Peter_L wrote:
Hi Ray... .6mm on both sides, isn't that going to make the interior feel a little narrow ? Wink Laughing


Never mind the width...feel the quality!! Laughing
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Peter_L



Joined: 10 Apr 2008
Posts: 2680
Location: New Brunswick. Canada.

PostPosted: Sat Sep 11, 2021 10:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ray White wrote:
Peter_L wrote:
Hi Ray... .6mm on both sides, isn't that going to make the interior feel a little narrow ? Wink Laughing


Never mind the width...feel the quality!! Laughing


I have to say, your project oozes quality.... (I trust the cheque's in the post)
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6284
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Sun Sep 12, 2021 12:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheque in the post.

... It's made from the finest rubber. Laughing
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6284
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Mon Sep 13, 2021 11:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not entirely unexpected; the 1/8" thick tacking strips that should have been fitted to the subframe (curved section) before attaching the wheel arches are absent. They were originally fibreboard and would have been held by split rivets. There might be just enough room to bend over the rivet tails but I am not sure how firm a fitting it would make.

Perhaps self tapping screws would make a better job of it. I don't have any fibreboard... perhaps I could use thin plywood bent through 90 degrees?

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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6284
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Tue Sep 14, 2021 5:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I decided to fill in the gap between the wheel arch and the sub frame. I needed something waterproof and at first thought I would use some expanding foam but knowing how uncontrollable and messy it can be I opted for 1" foam rubber soaked in PVA. When dry it should result in a satisfactory seal.



Before I can establish the exact profile of the side trim panels where they meet the wheel arches I needed to experiment with padding and coverings...but before I can do that I need to fit the seat back adjuster brackets. These were originally rivetted directly to the wheel arch but there are no holes in the new arches and with no datum points to go by I am relying on the "eyelet" in the wheel arch coverings that came with the car. These were never fitted properly so it is with fingers crossed that they will give me a guide for the brackets.

Measuring from the back of the car to establish a front to back location and judging where the bracket should emerge from the eyelet side to side, I marked and drilled the holes.

I have fortunately found four 5/16" slot head countersunk set screws and some quality nuts and spring washers (thanks Dad!) and now have the brackets installed.

I chose to have these brackets re chromed as at over £100 for a new pair it was getting silly.





The vinyl trim looks O.K.... but my new leather should look fantastic!
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6284
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2021 2:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There seemed to be a 5/16" hole missing in both doors (where the catch is fitted) and I suspected it had been panelled over. My suspicions proved right when some work with the Dremel revealed the holes. These three holes are for machine screws that engage in a concealed 'floating' L shaped back plate.

Further relieving of metal was needed to expose wood for a 4th screw; it being being a solitary wood screw.

I also needed to remove some more metal (and a nail) to allow the lock to sit flat.


Method of securing the latches to the wooden door frames....



I still need to put holes in the door cards so they will be in alignment. Not being able to get to the front of the timber frame (it being panelled) it will involve some careful measuring.
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Peter_L



Joined: 10 Apr 2008
Posts: 2680
Location: New Brunswick. Canada.

PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2021 10:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Ray. When I read your posts and in particular references to measuring. It reminds me of an old story of which I can't remember anything other than something that went a bit like " ensure the elastic is fully stretched when using it as a tape measure"
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6284
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Thu Sep 16, 2021 12:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is very little room for error as there is no adjustment mechanism with these doors. They need to be "right first time" as only packing will remain for any adjustment.

I do have a slight problem with the 1 1/2" x 3/16" BSW machine screws that hold the door latch. They screw into the L shaped steel plates (one of which I have made) concealed in the door frame.





I need to find a means of holding the plates in a position whereby the screws can actually reach. It was fine until I added the thickness of the door card ... and now they won't reach unless the plate is held up somehow. I will try supporting the plate on a piece of plywood and see if that works. The frustrating bit is that the door card has to be removed each time for access to the recess in the frame. It's more fiddly than difficult.


Last edited by Ray White on Thu Sep 16, 2021 5:13 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Bitumen Boy



Joined: 26 Jan 2012
Posts: 1733
Location: Above the snow line in old Monmouthshire

PostPosted: Thu Sep 16, 2021 4:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ray White wrote:
There is very little room for error as there is no adjustment mechanism with these doors. They need to be "right first time" as only packing will remain for any adjustment.

I do have a slight problem with the 1 1/4" x 3/16" BSW machine screws that hold the door latch. They screw into the L shaped steel plates (one of which I have made) concealed in the door frame.





I need to find a means of holding the plates in a position whereby the screws can actually reach. It was fine until I added the thickness of the door card ... and now they won't reach unless the plate is held up somehow. I will try supporting the plate on a piece of plywood and see if that works. The frustrating bit is that the door card has to be removed each time for access to the recess in the frame. It's more fiddly than difficult.


I can't quite make out exactly how these screws fit from the photos; but would a longer length of studding with the right thread work? The outer end slotted for a screwdriver and maybe, if necessary, the thread removed on the outer end? Use the stud into one hole to hold the plates in place (and wriggle them around if necessary), fit the latch over the stud and secure the other screw or screws, then remove the stud through the latch and fit the final screw. I've used something similar to fit an awkward door hinge which bolted to a loose (for adjustment) plate fitted captive inside the pillar and your problem sounds very much like it.
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6284
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Thu Sep 16, 2021 4:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Absolutely! I had intended to see if I could find a longer 3/16" BSW screw this afternoon but I got roped into fitting a kitchen cupboard!!

If I can find a screw long enough to reach the plate I should be able to "lift" it up enough to fit the other screws. The only disadvantage is that I will need to fiddle about with them again when I get the door card back from the trimmers; then fiddle about again after paint.

You know the way these things can take up so much time but that's just the way it is.!
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6284
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Thu Sep 16, 2021 5:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Given up trying to find any 3/16 BSW screws longer than 1 1/2" ...and ordered some 1 3/4" (eBay).

Hopefully the following thumbnails give a better idea of what I hope to achieve with longer screws.





In the meantime, having made the near side door card I have now cut out the template for the off side.

(Readers may recall the standard backing boards will not fit properly - if at all - so I am making my own from 3.6mm plywood.)
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