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MG TC
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Do you like or dislike the new dashboard ?
Yes I do like the new dashboard
100%
 100%  [ 7 ]
No I do not like the new dashboard
0%
 0%  [ 0 ]
Total Votes : 7

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Miken



Joined: 24 Dec 2012
Posts: 544

PostPosted: Fri Jan 21, 2022 12:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MVPeters wrote:
Miken
I'd use an ignition-switched source.


All done
Thanks
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Miken



Joined: 24 Dec 2012
Posts: 544

PostPosted: Fri Jan 21, 2022 6:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ray White wrote:
Miken wrote:
Ray,
On our electric fan kits, You said in another post that you fitted the sender to the top hose, as per instructions.
The instructions show the shiny sender wire just pinched up between the rubber hose and metal stub of the radiator with a jubilee clip.
Is that sufficient?
It seems like a built in leak to me.
Or have you come up with a better method?
Also,
Did you fit a fuse in the wiring? And what size fuse?
Thanks
Mike


I thought it looked like a potential leak , too, mike. I can't vouch for the TC (still not running yet) but I fitted a Kenlowe fan to my Triumph GT6 and I remember having to pack rubber strips either side of the tube to stop it leaking.
I

Ray, I've run it up to temperature on the driveway now. All working and no leaks around the sender wire.
Slightly surprised and pleased.
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6282
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Fri Jan 21, 2022 7:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Miken wrote:


Ray, I've run it up to temperature on the driveway now. All working and no leaks around the sender wire.
Slightly surprised and pleased.


That's good to hear, Mike.

Bring on the warmer weather!
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6282
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Fri Jan 21, 2022 9:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

While still thinking about wiring, I have been wrestling with a choice that needed to be made. In adding to the new wiring loom I have tried wherever I can to use the same cloth braided cable... but there are downsides that I had not anticipated.

It has a tendency to fray at the ends which looks untidy.

PVC is easier to work with.

The braided cables also get dirty pretty quickly.

PVC wires are easy to clean.

Braided cables are also three times as expensive as PVC .

In the end I opted for braided cable for the previously discussed connector block job ... but I am left wondering why??
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Miken



Joined: 24 Dec 2012
Posts: 544

PostPosted: Fri Jan 21, 2022 11:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, my truck has a replacement braided loom. I don't know how old it is but although it's in good condition it's very grubby and the colours are hard to discern.
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6282
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Sun Jan 23, 2022 8:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is surprising quite how stressful it can be when making new holes in the dashboard - even if it is a replacement - because you only get one go at it!
I have nevertheless made a 2" hole on the far right for an instrument. I think it will be for the booster/vacuum gauge because there is a fairly straight route for the capillary tube from the supercharger inlet manifold.

My hesitancy is simply because this location was traditionally chosen for an after market water temperature gauge; it's where you would expect to find it on a TC if so equipped - something they lacked from new - but seeing as the dash on my car is so radically changed from stock it probably doesn't matter much.

I have also established the final positioning for the indicators and horn button /dip switches. I also made holes for their wiring.

One thing I have needed to order is a 19mm hole saw. This is to make holes in the dash for the warning lights. I could have cut a smaller hole and filed it out to size with a round rasp but I feel that the job deserves to be done with more accuracy.
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6282
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Mon Jan 24, 2022 6:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A tip I had from John Marks (vintage restorations) who restored my instruments was to ensure the back lighting was as effective as possible. To do this I have needed to re shape the recesses for the panel lights in the back of the plywood dashboard. Fettling to a taper has revealed the "windows" in the perimeter of the instruments. I have been using a scalpel for the intricate areas and a sanding drum in my Dremmel to remove more material.

The job is quite satisfying but the sawdust gets everywhere!

I have also needed to trim the opening for the instrument panel to get it perfectly central. As usual with this car it was out by a 1/16" inch in two directions.

Turning to something different; I finished sanding down the wing stays. Having removed all traces of old paint and rust I applied a coat of "Bonda" anti rust zinc primer.

I think I might replace the rubber bushes (metalastic/silentblock) in the bottom of the stays...not that they desperately need replacing but as they are quite visible and cheap to buy, I think it all adds to a better looking end result.
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6282
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2022 8:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I received the new rubber bushes for the wing stays.
The problem is that the holes in the brackets on the chassis have been opened up from 5/16" to 3/8". It looks like I will be opting for plan A after all and leave the existing metalastic bushes in place.

Moving back to the dashboard; I have now made the holes for the warning lights but I came across a problem when offering up the dash board to the frame.

Several months ago - shortly after fitting the body - I reported the sturdy metal steering column support that is screwed to the scuttle clashed with one of the scuttle supporting brackets. I ended up repositioning the bracket and I thought that was an end to the matter...but no; it has come back to bite me.

The problem was that the repositioned bracket needed to be moved yet again because it was getting in the way of a gauge. After a few more hours working on the car I feel I am making progress...slowly.
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6282
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2022 7:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A very clever guy in Germany called Declan Burns has a small business making and supplying MG parts. I have purchased a novel electronic fuel sender unit that works on the hydrostatic principle. The system has yet to be tested but I an hopeful because the quality of his products is the highest anywhere.

Today I ordered a low oil pressure sender/warning kit :

Despite the provision of an oil pressure gauge, a sudden loss of oil pressure can easily go unnoticed and prove expensive.! Better safe than sorry, I am intending to fit a warning light and buzzer.

The kit consists of a brake pressure adapter which allows a 'T' piece to be fitted in the pressure gauge line and a pre wired relay module mounted in a plastic case that can be fitted behind the dashboard. The kit also includes the wiring from the pressure switch to the relay module and the wire for the power supply including 2A fuse and buzzer.

A warning light can be suppled but I have today ordered a red dash warning light from Octagon spares to match and compliment the existing warning lights.

According to Declan:@(edit)

"When the ignition is switched on the buzzer is off and receives an operation permissive once the engine has been started and the oil pressure exceeds 20 psi. The buzzer going off every time the ignition is switched on would prove annoying. A test switch is fitted to the circuit to enable the buzzer to be tested. This is how it the system works:

Ignition ON & engine OFF, (no oil pressure),

warning light is ON and buzzer is OFF.

Start engine. When the pressure reaches 20psi the warning light goes OFF, and Buzzer remains OFF.

With engine ON & pressure drops below 20 psi, the warning light and buzzer come ON.

The warning light and buzzer stay on until reset by switching off the ignition.

This circuit is not polarity sensitive and is designed for cars with positive or negative earth.

* Other pressure switches other than 20psi are available. When ordering remember to tell me the value of your hot idle oil pressure."


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bjacko



Joined: 28 Oct 2013
Posts: 351
Location: Melbourne Australia

PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2022 6:42 am    Post subject: oil pressure warning Reply with quote

From the picture of the kit there does not seem to be any nuts, olives etc to connect the cut ends of the oil pressure pipe to the tee piece. Are they going to be soldered into the tee piece ?
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6282
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2022 10:06 am    Post subject: Re: oil pressure warning Reply with quote

bjacko wrote:
From the picture of the kit there does not seem to be any nuts, olives etc to connect the cut ends of the oil pressure pipe to the tee piece. Are they going to be soldered into the tee piece ?


The tee piece provided in the kit will directly replace the existing union. At least, that's the theory!

https://docs.google.com/viewerng/viewer?url=https://www.mgexp.com/phile/46/516427/005_MG_TD_TF_oil_pressure_adapter.pdf
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ukdave2002



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4100
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2022 10:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ray

I think the same chap is involved with another German company that manufacture the only steering seals for MG's that don't fail after a few years:

https://www.engolit.de/kategorie/oldtimer-dichtungen/

When I was rebuilding my MGA I replaced the Trunnion seals twice, and that was before it was on the road! The seals from Germany are far superior to anything available in the UK.

A similar thing with door seals, none of the UK seals fit and one has to cross the pond to Philadelphia to obtain seals to the original spec, that actually allow you to close the door!

http://www.clarkespares.com/doorseals.html

Dave
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6282
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2022 11:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Dave. That reminds me of when I restored my Triumph GT6. With that car, the tailgate seal was not leaking but it looked tatty so I replaced it with a new one from Moss. The problem was that the seal was too thick and tailgate wouldn't close properly. It looked ridiculous standing proud of the body.

I seem to remember I ended up putting the old one back in!
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norustplease



Joined: 11 Apr 2011
Posts: 779
Location: Lancashire

PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2022 3:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a similar problem with a Renault 4.
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bjacko



Joined: 28 Oct 2013
Posts: 351
Location: Melbourne Australia

PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2022 7:22 am    Post subject: Oil presure warning light Reply with quote

Ray
Thanks for the picture it answers my query. I was thinking the TC was the same as Morris 8's with a copper pipe all the way from the engine to the gauge.
I must say it is a very neat arrangement.
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