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What did you do to your car today?
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alastairq



Joined: 14 Oct 2016
Posts: 1950
Location: East Yorkshire

PostPosted: Sat Jul 16, 2022 10:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A long time ago I came to the conclusion that the biggest 'killer' of electronic ignition modules was, heat. Or rather, excessive heat.

When I used to trail rear engined Skodas, a common 'mod' was to convert to electronic ignition as used by the factory in the Favorit[FWD] and Felicia.

The modules never lasted long .....discovered to being due to the excessive under-hood temperatures of the rear engines Skodas.

Which were much higher than the front engined models.

So stuff like sticking computer fans onto the modules was tried, successfully...as was using casings covered in heat resistant gunk...
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MikeEdwards



Joined: 25 May 2011
Posts: 2467
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Sat Jul 16, 2022 6:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

lowdrag wrote:
Lumenition was already fitted to my car when I bought it 22 years ago and it has never missed a beat in 30,000 miles. The only silly thing is that if the engine has stopped at a particular point just the fact of turning on the ignition can start the engine. Just as well I had the car in neutral at the time!


Similarly, it was on my Firenza when I bought it in 1986, and the only time it's caused trouble was when I extended the distributor cable with an inline connector. Turned out the connector was bad, and replacing it with soldered joints brought back the reliability. The hatch failed to start today, seems that the earth pin in the distributor cable connection was bad, fixed that and it jumped straight into life. Still no idea whether it's improved cold starting as I'd cranked it over a fair bit before finding the problem.

Interesting, your comment about simply turning the ignition on could cause the car to start - I've read that some stop-start systems restart a hot engine simply by sparking the cylinder that's in the correct position, if there is one. Sounds better than using the starter motor, to me. I've never had that on mine, but I'm also obsessive about checking, and usually cranking the engine with my foot on the clutch, the latter because it spins more freely when cold if it's not dragging the gearbox round as well.
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1976 Vauxhall HP Firenza, 1976 Vauxhall Sportshatch (x2), 1986 Audi coupe quattro, 2000 Audi TT
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MikeEdwards



Joined: 25 May 2011
Posts: 2467
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Sun Jul 17, 2022 6:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I started fitting an electric fan to the Sportshatch today, just the physical fitting so far. I'm using the kit supplied with it for speed - long thin pins that run through the radiator fins - but I don't like it. Apart from anything else, because it's a supplemental fan in front of the front panel, it will prevent me from removing the radiator if I need to. But I need it on sharp-ish, so it'll have to do for now. I'll revisit it "over winter" to make it a nicer installation.
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1976 Vauxhall HP Firenza, 1976 Vauxhall Sportshatch (x2), 1986 Audi coupe quattro, 2000 Audi TT
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ukdave2002



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4104
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Sun Jul 17, 2022 6:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Started to strip a Vauxhall Victor 3 speed gearbox that I picked up of eBay for £60, it’s an odd thing, its clearly not a NOS box as the gaskets are home cut, and there is clear marks on nuts & screws, shims like the gaskets are "home" cut.
However all the gears, synchro rings,layshaft etc are clearly brand new Smile but the roller bearings are worn, great for me as I can get new bearings, but odd as to why someone would go to the trouble of effectively building a brand new box, but not replace the roller bearings?

I don't have a Victor, the box (or components) is CA destined as my CA box is past its best.

Dave
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consul 57



Joined: 09 Nov 2017
Posts: 487
Location: somerset

PostPosted: Sun Jul 17, 2022 8:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

alastairq wrote:
badhuis wrote:

Not for us with LHD Very Happy
That said, lifting the gear lever knob on the TR4 to select reverse next to 4th gear is a bit difficult for us LHDers. Especially so because the wooden knob is a press push-on fit (not screw on) to the lever. Anyone else driving the car always pull off the knob.


When I worked, I taught/trained military personnel on operating [driving/using] their military vehicles.
The current Support Vehicles, MAN trucks, but without the expensive automatic gearboxes, the boxes were standard modern types, basically manual boxes without a gearlever, and clutches without a clutch pedal.
The selector switch was a rotary thing, and many was the time my 'student' driver presented me with the switch, asking what they should now do with it....?

sounds good, i have just made 5 of the new man trucks as none are available comercialy until now
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Penman



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4755
Location: Swindon, Wilts.

PostPosted: Sun Jul 17, 2022 8:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Back in the early '70s while driving an HB or HC Viva the whole gear lever and tin lid from where the G/stick went into the remote section of the gearbox came away in my hand.
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lowdrag



Joined: 10 Apr 2009
Posts: 1585
Location: Le Mans

PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2022 8:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I've ordered up the set of LED headlight bulbs, dashboard lights and rear stop/tail lights from here:-

www.bettercarlighting.co.uk

Seems very knowledgeable, can supply bulbs for the PL700 headlights in both positive and negative earth that others say are impossible, and has plenty of other little mods (like one that quadruples the output of the reversing light and also makes it act as a high power brake light).

All in cost, including postage, £231, which while dear I consider worth the money since as anyone knows, the PL700's are useless, and anno domini makes the problem worse. And for the first time I'll be able to read the instruments without squinting.
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MVPeters



Joined: 28 Aug 2008
Posts: 822
Location: Northern MA, USA

PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2022 9:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lowdrag

Please let us know how the LED headlight bulbs work out - in real, on-the-road terms.

I've tried several head & spot-light LEDs & not one comes anywhere close to the beam pattern of the incandescent bulbs they are purported to replace.
LEDs everywhere else are a very good idea, although the dashboard may not be dimmable - even if you don't want it to be!
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Rootes75



Joined: 30 Apr 2013
Posts: 3804
Location: The Somerset Levels

PostPosted: Sun Aug 07, 2022 2:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A very fine bit of weather so we have been refitting the windscreen in my Commer.

It's taken a long time to rebuild and restore the frame and finding a suitable screen rubber has proved problematic.

Well, the screen is now fitted and was quite a struggle, it's an opening screen and it quite big and heavy. Our only issue when fitted is that the replacement screen rubber is about 5mm shorter on the lip than the original so it doesn't seal aswel as we need in the cab aperture.
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petelang



Joined: 21 May 2009
Posts: 442
Location: Nottingham

PostPosted: Sun Aug 07, 2022 9:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rootes75, have a look at the website of COH Baines for screen rubber profiles.
Peter
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Rootes75



Joined: 30 Apr 2013
Posts: 3804
Location: The Somerset Levels

PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2022 8:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Peter,

That's where the screen rubber came from. I did shop around and asked a few suppliers but none supply or produce a T section screen rubber that size anymore.

I have gone for the largest size that is available. It does look good but in some areas it only just touches the aperture.
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6304
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2022 9:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Would liquid rubber help seal the screen?

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ukdave2002



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4104
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2022 1:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is the profile we supply for opening screens on Morrises if its any good:



https://morrisregisterspares.co.uk/product/rm099-windscreen-seal-morris-8-se-z-van-10m/

Dave
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Rootes75



Joined: 30 Apr 2013
Posts: 3804
Location: The Somerset Levels

PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2022 2:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The original rubber had a flange depth of 40mm! That's what causes the problem.

The new rubber is in place and looks very good, I will post some pics.

Our thoughts are to use some black sealant in the top corners where it is minimal contact and tbh we wont be opening the screen up so it should be ok.
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Rootes75



Joined: 30 Apr 2013
Posts: 3804
Location: The Somerset Levels

PostPosted: Fri Aug 12, 2022 9:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, I have finished restoring the windscreen frame after I couldn't find a replacement. Its taken a long time and has been really quite tricky, the following pics show its progress but not sort of skimming through it.

Firstly, when we removed the screen from the cab this is what we were faced with...



I cut out the rotten sections and then through fabricating the form and welding in and then skimming with filler I was able to replicate the insert shape required for the screen rubber T section. This shows the screen when the repairs are done and its masked up and primed.



Next up, this is the screen surround with 3 top coats applied, its the same corner as that in the first pic so you can compare the repair. I was please with it.



Lastly, the screen in place, with the screen rubber fitted and the masking materials removed. It took an awful lot of work to actually fit the screen back in place. Due to the opening mechanism it has to be spaced in a certain way to get it level and to also make sure the seal comes into contact with the aperture.



The one issue we have is that screen rubber is smaller than the original, its the largest depth we can get on the market for this type of T section but in some places it only just reached the aperture so obviously wont seal too well. I may even just seal the top corners and just accept that we don't use it as an opening screen. Overall though if you consider its original condition when stripped I am more than happy with the result.
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