Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.
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Do you like or dislike the new dashboard ? |
Yes I do like the new dashboard |
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100% |
[ 7 ] |
No I do not like the new dashboard |
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0% |
[ 0 ] |
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Total Votes : 7 |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6312 Location: Derby
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Posted: Thu May 19, 2022 8:29 am Post subject: |
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ukdave2002 wrote: | Are you going to fit an OBD2 port to the back of the dash?
Dave |
I wouldn't know where to start!
However, there is apparently a means of fitting "blue tooth" to the electronic distributor... so I could listen to music through my EarPods while waiting for the AA man... |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6312 Location: Derby
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Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2022 10:11 pm Post subject: |
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The latest development has been to try and get the dashboard to fit onto the plywood scuttle frame. It is secured with six raised countersunk wood screws, chrome plated and set into matching cup washers. There is also a nice chrome plated "grab" handle screwed to the passenger side of the dash with two matching slotted round head wood screws.
The original car would not have had quite the same layout so there are areas where items like warning lights, switches and extra dials will not fit without a certain amount of fettling to the plywood. I also needed to make smaller holes for various wires.
Another non original feature that I am keen to install is a low oil pressure warning light. As mentioned elsewhere, I have purchased a neat little kit from Declan Burns in Germany. This very high quality kit was easy to instal (even for me!) and I am confident that it will contribute to my peace of mind and be a valuable addition to the original (restored) gauge. The general plan is to have control over maximum oil pressure with the special adjustable relief valve by Peter Edney (also previously shown) - and in addition to the low pressure warning light - an audible warning that will only operate in the event of a sudden drop in pressure...
This, of course, is something I hope I will never need... |
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bjacko
Joined: 28 Oct 2013 Posts: 359 Location: Melbourne Australia
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Posted: Fri Jun 10, 2022 7:32 am Post subject: MG TC |
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Are you going to race the car? If not the more gauges you add will only give you more worry than piece of mind. |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6312 Location: Derby
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Posted: Fri Jun 10, 2022 9:32 am Post subject: Re: MG TC |
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bjacko wrote: | Are you going to race the car? If not the more gauges you add will only give you more worry than piece of mind. |
With respect, I think we will best agree to differ. |
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ukdave2002
Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4104 Location: South Cheshire
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Posted: Fri Jun 10, 2022 5:29 pm Post subject: Re: MG TC |
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Ray White wrote: | bjacko wrote: | Are you going to race the car? If not the more gauges you add will only give you more worry than piece of mind. |
With respect, I think we will best agree to differ. |
I can understand both points of view!
I'm currently fitting some home made electronic monitoring to my Bedford CA; firstly a device that will indicate the fuel air mixture ratio, secondly an electronic vacuum monitor, both will be a led bar display.
The idea came to me when trying to diagnose a backfire through the carb, I'm using an off the shelf O2 sensor and MAP sensor, simply plumbed into a IC designed for driving VU meters, with a couple of other components mainly for calibration. Total cost will be under £30 for both.
I'll have the led displays in the engine compartment somewhere, as its more for diagnosing/monitoring running rather than an alert.
I'll post a new thread with more detail when fitted.
Dave |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6312 Location: Derby
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Posted: Fri Jun 10, 2022 6:30 pm Post subject: |
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Although the MG T series were not particularly expensive cars, I think it is true to say that the TC suffered from the general austerity that followed WW2. However, by 1949, when my car was built, most sports car manufacturers had improved their instrumentation. The management at Abingdon were also concentrating on the new model and the TC was on the way out. TC10030 was actually one of the last made.
I think, bearing in mind I am not attempting to follow the "originality" mantra that seems to be the norm these days, it is not unreasonable to have instrumentation that gives me an idea as to what is actually going on.
I don't think having an oil pressure warning light is any more unreasonable than having a petrol gauge or for that matter a water temp. gauge; none of which was original equipment. |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6312 Location: Derby
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Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2022 7:20 pm Post subject: |
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I seem to be getting towards the end of the long and tiresome task of mating the dashboard wiring to the new loom and connecting it to additional cables that I have needed to add, because - as other TC restorers have discovered - the replacement harness barely allows for enough cable to make the dashboard connections without strain.
Another trick that other restorers have employed is to fit multiplugs. It will make it easier to remove the dashboard from the car which is something I need to do for the leatherwork.
Unfortunately, I will need to undo much of my work to attach the covering ...and then go through it all again!
One job that the warm weather will help with is paint. Given the time, I hope to be able to prime and paint the body. I will need to move the Swallow out of the garage rather than paint the TC outside as there are too many insects and pollen floating about in the air. |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6312 Location: Derby
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Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2022 10:41 am Post subject: |
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Now I have a set back.
I have just realised that either I need two fuses per relay or at least one fuse covering both high and low voltage wires - (if that will work?)
The way I have done it I just have one fuse per relay (in a fixed fuse box) so to avoid adding even more wires, I suppose I should need to add an in line fuse where needed.?
I don't know for sure what value fuses I need but I shall fit 5 amps for control side and on the power side, whatever value the load requires.
A bigger headache is that I have gone battery - relay - fuse ....instead of battery - fuse - relay. I didn't know that rule until I had installed everything
I suppose it is all part of the learning process. |
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ukdave2002
Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4104 Location: South Cheshire
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Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2022 12:34 pm Post subject: |
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Hi Ray,
What do you mean by high and low voltage wires? it should all be 12V ?
Dave |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6312 Location: Derby
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Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2022 12:40 pm Post subject: |
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I think I meant current, not voltage. |
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petelang
Joined: 21 May 2009 Posts: 444 Location: Nottingham
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Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2022 1:39 pm Post subject: |
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Ray you only need to fuse the current side of the relay contacts. Don't bother with the coil side. At that rate you will end us with more fuses than Concord, and the complication will inevitably lead to more problems if anthing goes wrong. It's a case of "less is more".
I had a 4.0 ltr Daimler V8 where Jaguar must have had investments in the relay makers. Car was smothered in fuse boxes and just reading the wiring diagram involved several pages of schematics and cross referencing. It made fault finding a bloody nightmare.
Peter _________________ Daimler Fifteen 1934
Armstrong Siddeley 15 Long 1933
Daimler V8 250 1969 |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6312 Location: Derby
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Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2022 4:08 pm Post subject: |
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petelang wrote: | Ray you only need to fuse the current side of the relay contacts. Don't bother with the coil side. At that rate you will end us with more fuses than Concord, and the complication will inevitably lead to more problems if anthing goes wrong. It's a case of "less is more".
I had a 4.0 ltr Daimler V8 where Jaguar must have had investments in the relay makers. Car was smothered in fuse boxes and just reading the wiring diagram involved several pages of schematics and cross referencing. It made fault finding a bloody nightmare.
Peter |
I wish I had read your comment before ripping everything out!
I read that you needed to do exactly what you are saying is not necessary!!
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6312 Location: Derby
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Posted: Thu Aug 11, 2022 1:13 pm Post subject: |
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The better weather has encouraged me to get on with the TC paint. I have spent many hours trying to get a decent surface on the rear wings. At last I think I may be getting somewhere!
The body tub is now in primer for the second time. I had to strip off all the primer that was applied by the body supplier because it was basically sub standard in every way.
Once the bare metal was cleaned with panel wipe I applied an epoxy primer. I followed this with a high build zinc primer which can be filled and flattened.
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6312 Location: Derby
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Posted: Sat Aug 13, 2022 1:34 am Post subject: |
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Despite the uncomfortable heat I managed to get a top coat of red cellulose on the near side inner wheel arch today. I thought this would be a good area to practise on. As it happened, I had forgotten quite how thick this paint is. After a few false starts where I was left wondering what was wrong, I got the mix about right. It needed a lot more thinning down.
I prefer to use a low pressure because although slower, it seems to go on better,,, and I am in no particular hurry. |
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norustplease
Joined: 11 Apr 2011 Posts: 779 Location: Lancashire
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Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2022 9:09 am Post subject: |
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50/50 should give you a decent thinners to paint mix for cellulose, but it will dry quickly in current temperatures and might give you an orange peel finish since the paint dries before it has had any chance to flow. You can increase the amount of thinners for a final coat to get a better 'from the gun' finish. Make sure that you have put on enough coats to give scope for wet sand and polish later on, if you feel that it is required.
Incidentally, if you have used an epoxy primer as a first coat, then the zinc rich coating on top is of limited value in rustproofing terms, since it is isolated from the metal of the panel by the epoxy, which is usually impremeable. _________________ 1953 Citroen Traction
1964 Volvo PV544
1957 Austin A55 Mk 1
Boring Tucson SUV |
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