Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[Ray White]

[alastairq]

[Ray White]

My plugs are NGK but I can't recall where I bought them.

I took the TC up our lane to show my neighbour. he has a small collection of vintage/classics and was pleased to see the MG. He took some photos and we attempted to resolve the smokey exhaust by adjusting the carb...but without success. We are also inclined towards oil rather than petrol. The smoke had a more blue haze than I remember.

One thought is that there is too much oil getting into the rocker cover (a common fault). I have adjusted the oil pressure to 43PSI when hot which I didn't think would be too much. The other possibility is that when the engine was rebuilt the valve stem oil seals may have been omitted. The sump, by the way, is not over filled.

The engine is also overheating. Quite why, I don't know because I have an up rated water pump, a new electric fan (rotating the right way) and a clean water jacket. The only thought I have had is that because the bypass is not closed off fully ( I have a small hole in it to assist the heater) that not enough water is getting into the radiator when the thermostat opens...if it is opening, that is?



I will investigate.

[alastairq]

How is the supercharger lubricated?
Does it have an oil feed from the engine oil?
[ As per stuff like Shorrocks vane type blowers?}
If it receives pressurised oil from the engine, then the oil supply ought to be adjustable down a bit?
Otherwise the blower will blow excess engine oil into the intake manifold, & cylinders.This will lead to more smoke than usual.
Dellow offered Ventnor/Wade superchargers as optional extras on the Ford-sourced 1172cc sidevalve engine. they were known to be smokey . probably because of this?
My own unfitted Shorrock-type vane blower has a little pressure valve where the engine oil line fits, to adjust this oil flow.
Beware of not allowing enough oil to the blower, however....
My Aisin blowers have self lubrication...there's a lubricant hole for their special lubricant to be inserted, now & then. They are roots-type blowers, but with only 2 lobes, so need to be spun at least 1.5 times crank speed.
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Dellow Mk2, 1951 built, reg 1952.
Fiat 126 BIS
Cannon special [1996 registered. Built in 1950's]
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Ford Pop chassis, Ashley 1172 bodyshell, in pieces.

[V8 Nutter]

Blue smoke points to oil burning. Possible causes could be, worn valve guides, or as you suggested no stem seals. Glazed bores or too smooth bores, and the rings are not bedding in properly. This could improve with use. The crankcase is not breathing properly. Just a few thoughts.

[ukdave2002]

The answer may be simple and not so alarming; I?ve experienced this before, one restores a vehicle and it?s subject to a few short starts, the problem is that when cold the plugs build up some carbon, because the engine is never run for long the carbon never burns off, often a decent run sorts the plugs out. Re the blue smoke, run the car for a 100 miles, if it?s still a problem investigate.

[Ray White]

[Ray White]

[Ray White]

[Ray White]

I have discovered why I keep getting air in the brakes. The problem is a poor quality flexible hose; or more specifically, the union with the wheel cylinder. The photo shows how a copper washer has distorted on tightening resulting in a leak. The problem is that the hose came without a sealing washer and if I remember correctly, I thought I could add a copper washer of my own.


The problem is that the plain section of the fitting beyond the threads is of a smaller diameter; resulting in an ill fitting washer. It is this washer that has distorted on tightening.

Ideally, the hose fitting would have had a non removable correctly sized sealing washer but it is not present on these hoses.

A spot of soft solder to the gap around the inside edge of a new copper washer - and filed flat- should enable it to seal safely.

[ukdave2002]

The washer looks to be a tad too large?, I have had this problem when fitting a "close" size metric washer to an imperial thread. The washer should have a similar internal diameter as a nut so that it "screws" on to the fitting and then has just a little slack when its past the threaded part of the fitting. You can always add a thread sealant for a belt and braces job.

[Ray White]

[Ray White]

I have fixed the leak and have a good brake pedal.

I have also reversed the wires on the fan and now that works as it should.

It was nice to take the car up our lane for a try out. She seems to steer straight and brakes well. I will need to investigate
the throttle actuation as the pedal is not moving very smoothly. It is seemingly either fully open or closed.

There seems to be plenty of power with first gear being little used. The clutch is sweet but as yet I haven't got out
of second gear...

.

[bjacko]

This sounds like a missing spring.
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1938 Morris 8 Ser II Coupe Utility (Pickup)
1985 Rover SD1 VDP

[Ray White]