Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[Greeney in France]

This is for you electronic genii amongst you:lol:
Here is one of my fuel senders (I have 3) I want to make a good one out of the 3.
How do I test to make sure its working other than wiring it up with gauge?
That resistance wound wire section in the top is where the slider bars touch so I will clean this up, and clean the terminals but I put a continuity test either end of the wire and it doesnt read or bleep at me does that mean its broken?
Why does it have the little brass tube with arm and plunger when I have a 2cv one that looks similar but doesn't have one?
And anything else you can tell me Thank you

_________________
www.OldFrenchCars.com

We do these things not to escape life but to prevent life escaping us

[peter scott]

Hi Greeney,

I suspect the brass tube has a little piston in it and acts to stop the fuel gauge needle bouncing up and down when you drive over bumps.

Sorry, I can't access a (proper British) sender at the moment but I would have thought the resistance should be something in the range 500 to 5000 ohms but that's pure guess. I'd have thought that if there was a break in the wire then you'd be able to see it with a magnifying glass.

Peter
_________________
http://www.nostalgiatech.co.uk
1939 SS Jaguar 2 1/2 litre saloon

[pigtin]

Have you a meter with a resistance scale? If so: set it to low and connect one lead to the terminal, the other to the body. When you move the lever the resistance should change. Alternatively: if you have an old gauge, connect the sender, battery and gauge in series and operate the lever. Having no continuity reading on the winding may mean that the resistance is too high for for the tester to operate, better to rely on reading the resistance. Check that the lever has not built up insulation on the bearing surfaces by checking continuity between the lever and the body.
I went through all this a couple of years ago when I had the same problems with a Standard 8.

Don.
_________________
Due to the onset of my mid eighties I'm no longer sprightly and rarely seen in my Austin special. I have written a book though. https://amzn.eu/d/7rwRRqL

[Jim.Walker]

Trying for continuity at each end of the wiring may lead you up the 'garden path'. Power will normally flow from the live end of the winding and to earth via the wiper. Try continuity testing between the live end and various points on the track left by the wiper. You should get continuity unless/until you pass a break in the winding. If you can locate a break a bit of careful soldering to bridge the gap should not impair performance too much, even if that means unwinding one coil to make the ends meet.

The tube is undoubtedly a damper. I have come across a similar setup on Peugeot cars.

After I originally posted this I found I had missed Pigtins contribution. Everything he says is valid. If you are using a test lamp for the continuity testing the resistance may well be too great to get a result.
_________________
Quote from my late Dad:- You only need a woman and a car and you have all the problems you
are ever likely to want". Computers had not been invented then!

[Greeney in France]

Thank you for all that info
I have completed it now the sender has be dismantled and cleaned, put back together and tested, I got the resistance measured too and yes I was not doing it correctly I have a sealey digital and instead of measuring it I was doing a bleep test. It was too high as it only bleeps below 50
I changed the old cork float for a plastic one from a 2cv

I could have just bought new ones at 60€ for the pair but its much more fun repairing what you have even if it is in a barn with minus 10 outside
_________________
www.OldFrenchCars.com

We do these things not to escape life but to prevent life escaping us