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wheel cylinder grease
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P3steve



Joined: 24 Nov 2007
Posts: 542
Location: Great Yarmouth, Norfolk

PostPosted: Mon Mar 15, 2010 7:46 am    Post subject: wheel cylinder grease Reply with quote

When I lay my Rover P3 up for the winter I have the same problem each time I go to get it out even though through the winter I give it a trip out at least once a month weather permitting. The problem is sticking wheel cylinders, the bores are good but aren't 100% but there's no sign of leaking or weeping from the seals and when free the breaks work fine but it takes a good push on the pedal to get it to move or with the drum and shoes off and a G clamp over the cylinder to stop the piston from coming out again letting the piston move in and out a few times sets it up for the season, the outer dust seals have been replaced but because of the state of the bleed nipples I haven't pulled the pistons out as I would have to most likely replace the whole cylinder. I recall years ago when one replaced the seals on a wheel cylinder you got a little tube of special red grease I thought about packing this under the dust seal and wonder if you can still get this grease, any ideas other than the obvious of getting new cylinders
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Castellated nut



Joined: 08 Dec 2007
Posts: 91
Location: Shropshire, UK

PostPosted: Mon Mar 15, 2010 9:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You certainly can buy the red grease (I have a tube of "Girling Rubber Grease"), but I wouldn't think it would help your problem. Most likely you have some corrosion on the pistons and bore due to moisture in the fluid.

Best advice would be to strip the cylinder and change it if necessary. If you carry on without, keep an eye on it for leaks. If you get fluid on the linings, "brake and clutch" cleaner (in 5 litre cans from factors) seems effective, even on silicone fluid.
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michael1703



Joined: 22 Jul 2009
Posts: 349
Location: suffolk

PostPosted: Mon Mar 15, 2010 9:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

red rubber grease is great stuff for cars that have little use

i have a customer who's car only goes out a fw times a year and he had brake trouble before i worked on it

a clean of the bores and seals and liberal application of rubber grease means they are perfect every time

i bought a big tub of it from castrol some years ago for about £5, it keeps well and last forever
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baconsdozen



Joined: 03 Dec 2007
Posts: 1119
Location: Under the car.

PostPosted: Mon Mar 15, 2010 11:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think I'll give that a try.my Mk1 transit has to sit all winter right by the sea.The spray seems to get in just about everywhere and the back brakes usually have to be freed off after its hibernation.
I alos have a Rover stood over there and the brake discs are rusting at an alarming rate,I can't think of anything that i can do about it.
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Thirty years selling imperial hand tools for old machinery(Now happily retired).
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Salopian



Joined: 05 Jan 2010
Posts: 354
Location: Newport Shropshire

PostPosted: Mon Mar 15, 2010 12:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Michaels remedy is right - sticking brake cylinder pistons seem endemic with the Lockheed brakes on my MG TD. It was a regular problem until I generously lubricated the pistons with red rubber grease.
I always reckoned it was caused by the use of steel pistons in aluminium bores. The problem could arise after a little as 2 weeks standing and at odd times when I was using it everyday to commute (1973-1984).
I imagine silicone brake fluid could help but I have no experiance of that.
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Alvis SD 12/50 1928 MG TD 1950
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Jim.Walker



Joined: 27 Dec 2008
Posts: 1229
Location: Chesterfield

PostPosted: Mon Mar 15, 2010 5:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think the reason for this problem is quite obvious. The part of the piston (most of it) outwards of the seal gets no lubrication whatsoever if the seals are good. Hence corrosion and sticking is almost inevitable on low mileage cars. Girling rubber grease on the piston and under the dust seal is a sensible precaution. I wonder why they stopped supplying it in kits? Of course mineral based grease must never be used (except PERHAPS on some Citroens).
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are ever likely to want". Computers had not been invented then!
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michael1703



Joined: 22 Jul 2009
Posts: 349
Location: suffolk

PostPosted: Mon Mar 15, 2010 9:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

another thing i always do is make sure there is no moisture in the drum assembly

take backplates to bare metal and give them two coats of hammerite smooth, paint whel cylinder casting, paint brake shoe backings and ensure a good seal of rubber greade between wheel cylinder body and dust seals as well as between handbrake lever boot and backplate

i also paint inside the drum on all but the unswept area

some copper grease on the moving parts and hopefully youve got the moisture gone

by running rusty backplates you are invite moisture and further corrosion in to the brake assembly
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