Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[1935Hillman]

I would like to hear some opinions regarding the preparation and painting of a chassis please. My inclination was to go for powder coating but a couple of recent comments I have heard are making think again. They have suggested that powder coating is a great finish but also unrepairable if chipped, leading to decay under the coating. I would welcome any of your thoughts on the subject. Is priming and painting better? Is Hammerite better?
Look forward to your comments
Many thanks

[Phil - Nottingham]

Hammerite no good either black chlorinated chassis paint is by far the best - even Frosts do it and its original
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Rover P2
Rover P4
Rover P5 & P5B
Land Rover S2 & S3
Morris Mini Traveller Mk2

[Kelsham]

Hi, I would advise shotblasting the chassis, then use bilt Hambers Zinc primer, followed by the chassis paint suggested earlier.

regards Kels.

[Fluffle-Valve]

Yep, Chassis paint all the way for me.

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Series 3 1972 LWB Truck Cab Pick Up. My daily drive.

[Phil - Nottingham]

Land Rovers always leak black oil everwhere
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Rover P2
Rover P4
Rover P5 & P5B
Land Rover S2 & S3
Morris Mini Traveller Mk2

[Fluffle-Valve]

[jessejazza]

From someone who used to spec coatings on plant equipment... my 2pence worth.

assuming we're considering a non galvanised chassis

1] shotblasting ideal but failing that a good coarse wire brush twist or flapwheel on the grinder.

2] coating of Mordant solution (phosphoric acid). It is in fact what is often sold as primer for galvanised surfaces. When dry it will turn the metal slightly blackish with whisps of white (this shows that the surface is absolutely clean). It etchs the surface to provide very good adhesion for an undercoat. 1L £15 but that will do several chassis. You could use an etch primer but i'd use that on aluminium rather than steel.

3] i] ideal undercoat is one of the offshore epoxy primers if you want something that is literally comparable or better than galvanising. After curing this stuff won't be coming off without a diamond tipped grinding disc or a shot blast with v.coarse grit. International paints or similar marine coating suppliers. Two coats but that depends how it's being applied.
ii] a good synthetic enamel will do fine on mordant as will any zinc or red primer.

4] Top coat synthetic enamel or one of the many chassis blacks sold. I'm using Tekaloid on a car and will just be using black on the chassis. Two coats.

5] Waxoyl is an excellent product to finish off with as it gets well into the ghastly corners where rust will always start

As for application; you can brush but i've recently taken to using a mini roller (which is great for speed of application... but i'm sure i'll get a groan or two!)

For a galvanised chassis (highly overrated in my opinion and not superior to epoxy primer); use a mordant solution and if it's thick just a chassis black over the top. If you want to show off the galvanised chassis then i'd still out waxoyl on.

On no account use Hammerite or Smoothrite as it's not oil or petrol resistant. Give it a test; paint an old piece of bar and let the paint cure, dip in petrol, oil, grease, brake fluid etc and see what happens. It is also very hard and will chip. I wouldn't even use it for a garden gate; thinners are expensive and it is nothing like as good as a plain good quality enamel.

I'm just about to do several chassis.... i'll be practising what i preach.

[TonyBrooks]

I would appreciate an update on your progress as I am just about to have a chassis shotblasted and am researching the best way to paint it afterwards.

thanks.

[richardlw]

I plan on doing my Mini and Renault the same as I did on the Corvair.

Sand Blast
Black Hammerite on suspension, sub-frames, etc.
Etching primer and 3 coats of Water-based black undercoating (sound and pebble absorption) on the underside of the car before putting on the suspension.



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[whiteshadow]

I've been using Rustbeater's epoxy mastic. Angle wire brush, then clean with panel wipe and apply................it's two pack, and when cured even the angle grinder wire brush has trouble to get through.

I know that people seem to love PVR-15?, or systems which seem to involve 20 different stages including washing in unicorn tears........But the the fact that the RNLI spec this stuff for their launch tractors was enough for me!