Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[baconsdozen]

Ever since I've had my P5b the bonnet has fitted badly.The supports where the hinges bolt too had corroded and split and I repaired them checking with another bonnet to ensure they are in the right place.This made the bonnet fit better but on one side more than the other the gap between wing and bonnet edge is too large especially at the rear.
The bonnet fits reasonably at the front and seems to sit level with the scuttle but there is still clearance between the bonnets rubber buttons and wing.
The wings are new,I've slackened off the fixing bolts but can't really get the gaps closer.
With the bonnet shut,pushing down hard at the rear improves the fit but only slightly,I believe this is the original bonnet,has anyone else had issues with the fitting of these?

[Phil - Nottingham]

Its usually badly fitted (or fitting) front wings if the bonnet has not twisted which they can very easily do if hinges seize or are bent/badly adjusted
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Rover P2
Rover P4
Rover P5 & P5B
Land Rover S2 & S3
Morris Mini Traveller Mk2

[baconsdozen]

Thanks Phil
Looking at the drivers side (which is the worst affected) it looks to me that if the wing was a few mm higher the fit would be improved.I took some of the bolts out but it looks like the holes would have to be opened out and the turned over flange on top of the inner wing which sits over the top of the outer wing would have to be folded up to allow the wing to move upwards.
I have heard that some of the replacement wings were rather poorly made,if thats true does my suggestion of raising the wing make scense?

[Phil - Nottingham]

Yes that is exactly what is needed - they were done like that to a certain extent in the factory including "relocating" the inner wing
_________________
Rover P2
Rover P4
Rover P5 & P5B
Land Rover S2 & S3
Morris Mini Traveller Mk2

[Farmer John]

You need to know precisely what the problem is with the bonnet, and the hinges are preventing an accurate analysis. So disconnect them from the bonnet. It looks like they are spring loaded so will have considerable power.
Remove the bonnet and use something like a twenty-four inch adjustable to force the hinges into their closed position. Remove enough of the bonnet catch or latch to allow the nose to sit right down.
Sit the bonnet on again and it will be easy to see what needs to be done.
Have a place ready to stand the bonnet, when it is removed, with soft pads for the corners. Before trial fit cover the wings and scuttle with blankets, sheets, quilts or just choose whichever you like. They will be in a cupboard and neatly folded, ready for use.

[baconsdozen]

I think you're right although no way would I dare use the folded up linen from the cupboard.
I've decided to pretty much start again,unbolting the wings and front panel,and re-welding the hinge panel from the bonnet.

[baconsdozen]

After much fiddling,welding and general manipulating all I achieved is an improvement but not 100% success.
The bonnet with its rewelded hinges sits better on the moved wings but when first closed sits a bit high at the back.Pushing the back down makes it better,but the gaps are still pretty uneven.
Oddly taking the bonnet hinge spring off means it fits without being pushed into place but then the bonnet wont stay up.I think the hinges are supposed to go over centre with the bonnet closed so that the springs hold the bonnet down and that these hinges dont go down far enough so that the springs just try and hold the bonnet open instead.I've tried adjusting the position of the hinges but can only make things worse,not better.
Maybe its time to fiddle with something else and go back to it later.

[Farmer John]

The plane of the bonnet when it just closes is determined by the plane of the hinge "plate", it's upper surface. In your case the bonnet needs a more nose-up attitude which can be achieved by adding some packing between the bonnet and the hinge at the very front of the hinge. Flat washers do the trick, try three at the front of each hinge to see the effect and whether that is what you want. The process of adjusting is infinitely easier without springs and the catch, tighten the bolts only enough to stop fore and aft or sideways movement of the bonnet on the hinges.
(Just realised I have written this assuming that the hinge plates are horizontal when the bonnet is shut rather than vertical. The adjustment on vertical ones is simpler.)
Be aware that the washers might affect the rear of the bonnet enough to scratch the paint so swing it down carefully at first..
Without springs you will need a bonnet prop which will be in one of her other cupboards. Simply saw off the end with the whiskers or the sponge rubbery bit and cut to a length which suits you.
If the gap is different on either side use washers to suit.
The bonnet may be twisted but if the back is right that will be readily apparent.

John

[baconsdozen]

I tried altering hinges which improved the fit to the scuttle but after some discussions with rover officianados on another forum I was tempted into panel beating the wings to meet the bonnet.
A few hours spent jacking and persuading with a large rubber mallet and I was able to get a more sensible and even gap.
All inspired and full of enthusiasm I tried the same trick on the boot which didn't fit well before its new rubber was fitted and looked even worse after.
After loads of tweaking and pummelling the panel above the bumper I was able to get a much improved fit.
The doors are already pretty good apart from the off side rear so I might try reshimming it.