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20/50 oil
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ka



Joined: 03 Dec 2007
Posts: 600
Location: Orkney.

PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 7:40 am    Post subject: 20/50 oil Reply with quote

Just picked up an interesting article from someone who knows an awful lot more about oil than I do.
His article (published in the August Bulletin of the Morgan Threewheeler magazine), makes reference to 20/50 oil in particular and the adoption of a standard introduced by Japanese motorcycle manufacturers in the 1990's addressing the falling shear-resisting protection supplied by 20/50 oils, identified by JASO MA, or the later JASO MA2.
To cut the article down to the crux, his advise is that if you value your big-end(and who does not?) choose a quality 20/50 synthetic ester-based oil, and not the cheaper 'banger' oil at the bottom end of the price range. He also makes reference to ensuring the 20/50 oil has the W for winter rating.
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baconsdozen



Joined: 03 Dec 2007
Posts: 1119
Location: Under the car.

PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 9:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Like most things you get what you pay for.Cheapo oil probably isn't a good investment if you value your engine.
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ukdave2002



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4100
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 1:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can get my head around most things engineering wise...oil chemistry however remains a complete mystery! Confused Shocked

Dave
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kevin2306



Joined: 01 Jul 2013
Posts: 1359
Location: nr Llangollen, north wales

PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 1:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

for me, good quality oil changed very regular does it every time. cant understand peeps who use low quality oil or dont do frequent oil changes.
especially important in classic engines due to the usual low yearly mileages. a gallon of even the most expensive oil is way cheaper than an engine rebuild.

these people are decent suppliers and very helpful when requesting information and specifications/applications

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/

kev
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Posts: 7113
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 5:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mineral oils break down under stress such and high temperature or pressure. Synthetics are much better and are designed to cling on to surfaces so they are still present when you start after an extentended period. Don't believe that you are getting something better just because it comes in a can rather than a plastic bottle.

And don't believe the rubbish about detergents in modern oils. They are good in any engine.

Peter
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ka



Joined: 03 Dec 2007
Posts: 600
Location: Orkney.

PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 5:51 pm    Post subject: Oil Pressure/Compression Reply with quote

Just followed this link,
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/

The person who knows more than I is a development bod at silkolene!
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KA

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Phil - Nottingham



Joined: 01 Jan 2008
Posts: 1252
Location: Nottingham

PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 6:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Whilst it is quite true you get what you pay for but what is more important is do you need it?

For the more common butterfly classic its a waste of money buying expensive oils just as much it would be for an oil buring old banger
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ukdave2002



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4100
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 6:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My brother in law bought a brand new Corsa some years ago, it had its first oil change at 70,000 miles, he had however diligently topped the oil up with the cheapest supermarket stuff...every time the oil warning lamp stayed on Shocked

The 70,000 oil change occurred because the head gasket failed due to a lack of coolant (vauxhall hadn't bothered to fit a low coolant lamp !!) and the gradual increase in engine temperature had gone unnoticed Shocked

With its single oil change and new head gasket the little car did another 20,000 miles without attention before he traded it in, where it was still running like new.

It did make we wonder what benefits if any, doing regular oil changes with quality oil would have made to this car? Did the original "quality" oil provide some longer protection, or was it a one off? ......all questions above my pay grade!

Dave
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kevin2306



Joined: 01 Jul 2013
Posts: 1359
Location: nr Llangollen, north wales

PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 7:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i must admit to keeping an eye on the deals in the local asda and buying the castrol gtx when on offer for £12 a tub.
dont always need it when its on offer but usually buy 3 or 4 tubs at a time.
i used to run my ford sierra on the oil my diesel fitter best mate got me, bought with 3000 miles on it and sold with 100k on it and the motor was still sweet as (3000 mile filter and oil changes tho) ive still got 25 liters of that in the shed! does oil loose its qualities through standing? (by qualities i mean the additive side of things)
any1 local to me is welcome to it if they are in need (llangollen)

kev
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ka



Joined: 03 Dec 2007
Posts: 600
Location: Orkney.

PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 7:48 am    Post subject: Oils Reply with quote

I also had the advice, to buy supermarket oil, and change it every 1000miles, difficult to know what to do for best isn't it?
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colwyn500



Joined: 21 Oct 2012
Posts: 1745
Location: Nairn, Scotland

PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 8:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used to run my old side-valve Austin on 20-50 because it wasn't easy to get monogrades in the 1980s. The information I was given was don't use a detergent oil in an engine that has not been re-built because there will be an accumulation of sludge that will get dislodged. This can cause problems in oilways. Older gaskets are also more prone to being penetrated by detergent oils. I suspect that there aren't many un-restored side-valves on working cars out there now.

The engine has still not been dismantled but after loads of oil changes is now very clean. So I now use straight 40 SAE as orginally specified. The engine is definitely quieter (or is that a psychological response?). The most obvious difference is that the inside of the filler tube no longer gets any coating from oil splash or mist implying to me that the oil is remaining more viscous even in this hot weather.

Even on my old cars, serious engine issues have been very rare and I have also noted that people who are significantly less conscientious about servicing than me also seem to have no engine problems.
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AlpineAndy



Joined: 09 Sep 2013
Posts: 2

PostPosted: Tue Sep 10, 2013 9:44 pm    Post subject: 20/50 Reply with quote

I use the 20/50 from Unipart = it has the same rating codes as the Comma 20/50 classic oil. Mileage is low. I live in Holland and 20/50 harder to find - so just pick it up on on the yearly trip home.
Andy
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baconsdozen



Joined: 03 Dec 2007
Posts: 1119
Location: Under the car.

PostPosted: Sat Sep 14, 2013 12:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I simply use a decent 20/50 oil and change it often. I've never had an engine seize or just wear out on me yet.
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kevin2306



Joined: 01 Jul 2013
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Location: nr Llangollen, north wales

PostPosted: Sat Sep 14, 2013 12:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

we could do with an 'oil watch' between us really so if any1 sees something like castrol gtx etc that asda (other supermarkets are available) sell usually at £20 a can reduced to their normal sale price of £12 we can stock up (assuming its suitable for your car that is).

kev
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BigJohn



Joined: 01 Jan 2011
Posts: 954
Location: Wem, Shropshire

PostPosted: Sat Sep 14, 2013 1:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A word from our sponsors?
The Millers Classic Performance mineral 20w50 is not a bad price for those that need high zddp.

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchCmd?srch=20w50&action=search&storeId=10001&catalogId=10151&langId=-1

John.
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