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Austin Seven Ruby ARQ rejuvenation
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OuBallie



Joined: 02 Mar 2013
Posts: 225
Location: South Norfolk next to Suffolk

PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 4:38 pm    Post subject: 2016 and here we go! Reply with quote

I have stopped the river of rainwater flowing from the bottom of the door after adding adding that deflector.
Only a small puddle now.

Update time at last:

Got my finger out and decided to do some work on the Ruby this morning, and strip the paint from the Radiator Surround and rear Mud Shields.

Inside of the Radiator Surround:


Close-up of the way the Winged badge is secured:

Why the nasty punched hole on the right I wonder.
How the Radiator Surround brightwork is secured

Radiator Surround brightwork:


Tabs snapped off whilst removing the Radiator Surround brightwork:


De-greasing the inside of the Radiator Surround:


Biostrip paint stripper applied:


Geoff - Hope to finish the car this year with luck.
_________________
Too many hobbies, not enough time!
1935 Austin Seven Ruby ARQ
1957 Austin A35 2-door
1967 Morris Minor 2-door
2007 Fiat Doblò MultiJet (It carries the spares etc)
Model Engineering
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kevin2306



Joined: 01 Jul 2013
Posts: 1359
Location: nr Llangollen, north wales

PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 6:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What's the plan with the broken off tabs on the bright Work?

Kev
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OuBallie



Joined: 02 Mar 2013
Posts: 225
Location: South Norfolk next to Suffolk

PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2016 10:35 am    Post subject: Grey matter still in holiday mode Reply with quote

Kev,
I have absolutely no idea so open to suggestions please.

Listening to TMS and their boasting of lovely sunshine & cheap food.

Geoff - Sods!
_________________
Too many hobbies, not enough time!
1935 Austin Seven Ruby ARQ
1957 Austin A35 2-door
1967 Morris Minor 2-door
2007 Fiat Doblò MultiJet (It carries the spares etc)
Model Engineering
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colwyn500



Joined: 21 Oct 2012
Posts: 1745
Location: Nairn, Scotland

PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2016 11:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Geoff, my Ausin 10 had that same crudely punched hole in the cowl. I also never worked out a purpose for it.
I remember the suggested fix for the fixing tabs on the trim surround was to melt the lead fill in the chromed strip at the intervals and drop in a bifurcated rivet or one of those old fashioned, bifurcated, brass paper clips.
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OuBallie



Joined: 02 Mar 2013
Posts: 225
Location: South Norfolk next to Suffolk

PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2016 3:11 pm    Post subject: Learned something new! Reply with quote

Colwyn500,
Didn't realise lead was used as a filler, so easily sorted.
Thanks.
Need to edit the hour plus videos of me stripping the paint before uploading it.

Geoff - Second coat of stripper did the job.
_________________
Too many hobbies, not enough time!
1935 Austin Seven Ruby ARQ
1957 Austin A35 2-door
1967 Morris Minor 2-door
2007 Fiat Doblò MultiJet (It carries the spares etc)
Model Engineering
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OuBallie



Joined: 02 Mar 2013
Posts: 225
Location: South Norfolk next to Suffolk

PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2016 1:51 pm    Post subject: Hope nobody's been holding their breath. Reply with quote

Back on the job after far too long an absence sorting out an issue with the lathe, then replacing Summerhouse felt amongst other things.

Engine cover vents.
Could only remove one of the 'hinge' rods as ALL the others had rusted in place and just would not budge even with the help of THE usual persuader, so resorted to using the ULTIMATE solution - FIRE🔥
From the end of a Blowlamp of course.

Hinge rod rusted in place, so heat applied after overnight dose of penetrating fluid.
[/URL]

Heat and penetrating fluid did the job.
[/URL]

Interior ready for final clean and DTM undercoat.
[/URL]

Exterior ready for final clean and DTM undercoat.
[/URL]

One more rear Mud Shield to do and strip the doors of glass, mechanism, strip the paint from the OS door, then apply DTM undercoat to all the loose body parts.
I can then get the body back into the Carport for repairs, especially making good the horrible mess done to the NS door lower hinge area, ditto the NS B-pillar bottom section, final stripping of paint, then application of DTM undercoat, then decide how to proceed.
May apply the top coat/s to the body with the doors attached, but not sure.

Advice please from anyone who has done a bare metal repaint, especially on sequence used.

Geoff - Progress at last.
_________________
Too many hobbies, not enough time!
1935 Austin Seven Ruby ARQ
1957 Austin A35 2-door
1967 Morris Minor 2-door
2007 Fiat Doblò MultiJet (It carries the spares etc)
Model Engineering
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OuBallie



Joined: 02 Mar 2013
Posts: 225
Location: South Norfolk next to Suffolk

PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2016 10:41 am    Post subject: Hope nobody's been holding their breath. Reply with quote

Back on the job after far too long an absence sorting out an issue with the lathe, then replacing Summerhouse felt amongst other things.

Engine cover vents.
Could only remove one of the 'hinge' rods as ALL the others had rusted in place and just would not budge even with the help of THE usual persuader, so resorted to using the ULTIMATE solution - FIRE🔥
From the end of a Blowlamp of course.

Hinge rod rusted in place, so heat applied after overnight dose of penetrating fluid.
[/URL]

Heat and penetrating fluid did the job.
[/URL]

Interior ready for final clean and DTM undercoat.
[/URL]

Exterior ready for final clean and DTM undercoat.
[/URL]

One more rear Mud Shield to do and strip the doors of glass, mechanism, strip the paint from the OS door, then apply DTM undercoat to all the loose body parts.
I can then get the body back into the Carport for repairs, especially making good the horrible mess done to the NS door lower hinge area, ditto the NS B-pillar bottom section, final stripping of paint, then application of DTM undercoat, then decide how to proceed.
May apply the top coat/s to the body with the doors attached, but not sure.

Advice please from anyone who has done a bare metal repaint, especially on sequence used.

Geoff - Progress at last.
_________________
Too many hobbies, not enough time!
1935 Austin Seven Ruby ARQ
1957 Austin A35 2-door
1967 Morris Minor 2-door
2007 Fiat Doblò MultiJet (It carries the spares etc)
Model Engineering
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OuBallie



Joined: 02 Mar 2013
Posts: 225
Location: South Norfolk next to Suffolk

PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2016 10:06 am    Post subject: Back on track at last Reply with quote

At last I'm making progress as weather is far more conducive.
Engine Cradle.
Now that I have sorted the lathe out, it was time to think about some way of getting the engine and gearbox attached to my generic engine stand, and then into the Workshop so that I can work on it at night in comfort.
I did the usual internet search, for a suitable design, but only found one that looked as if it would hold an engine weighing a ton.
Having a spare crankcase to hand, it was easy to use it as a template.
It took just a few days to come up with a suitable design that was simple, light plus quick and easy to make.













Video of the assembly being used:
https://youtu.be/Y2fm7fYwulk

Geoff - Now to carry out repairs to the parts taken off of the car.
_________________
Too many hobbies, not enough time!
1935 Austin Seven Ruby ARQ
1957 Austin A35 2-door
1967 Morris Minor 2-door
2007 Fiat Doblò MultiJet (It carries the spares etc)
Model Engineering
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Penman



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4751
Location: Swindon, Wilts.

PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2016 12:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi
I hope you were speaking figurativly when you eefer to the engine weighing a ton.
After all a complete Ruby should only be around 0.61 ton. Laughing Laughing
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Bristols should always come in pairs.

Any 2 from:-
Straight 6
V8 V10
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OuBallie



Joined: 02 Mar 2013
Posts: 225
Location: South Norfolk next to Suffolk

PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2016 6:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Penman wrote:
Hi
I hope you were speaking figurativly when you eefer to the engine weighing a ton.
After all a complete Ruby should only be around 0.61 ton. Laughing Laughing


Indeed 👍👏🤔
_________________
Too many hobbies, not enough time!
1935 Austin Seven Ruby ARQ
1957 Austin A35 2-door
1967 Morris Minor 2-door
2007 Fiat Doblò MultiJet (It carries the spares etc)
Model Engineering
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OuBallie



Joined: 02 Mar 2013
Posts: 225
Location: South Norfolk next to Suffolk

PostPosted: Wed May 11, 2016 5:10 pm    Post subject: Moving on. Reply with quote

Been checking the engine and it appears to be totally unmolested.
With all that white gunk in the top water outlet, and the detritus in the inlet aside of the block, I think it best to remove it and soak it in molasses, as I will be doing with the head, after removing all Welsh plugs.

There is absolutely no wear in the bores, much to my surprise, but haven't cleaned top of pistons yet to see if there is any oversize stamped on them.

That thick sediment in the Crankcase Bottom Cover, indicates that it hasn't been off for ages, if ever.
I shall be removing the crank and rods to check for cracks, seeing that the engine is out.
















_________________
Too many hobbies, not enough time!
1935 Austin Seven Ruby ARQ
1957 Austin A35 2-door
1967 Morris Minor 2-door
2007 Fiat Doblò MultiJet (It carries the spares etc)
Model Engineering
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Penman



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4751
Location: Swindon, Wilts.

PostPosted: Wed May 11, 2016 6:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi
I would normally say that the white gunk is emulsified oil, usually a sign of water ingress into the oil system.
Could be a gasket leak or a casting crack but possibly rain water ingress through the oil filler if the car was left out in the open for long.
BUT I would have then expected to see the same muck in the sump but that just looks thick and black.
_________________
Bristols should always come in pairs.

Any 2 from:-
Straight 6
V8 V10
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OuBallie



Joined: 02 Mar 2013
Posts: 225
Location: South Norfolk next to Suffolk

PostPosted: Thu May 12, 2016 7:42 am    Post subject: Clutch Mouse springs Reply with quote

Penman,
Thanks for that as it never registered, so nother good reason to totally dismantle the engine.

Clutch Mouse springs.
Not sure how these should appear once fitted.
Should they be loose as two are, or resting up against the Declutching levers.









Geoff - More stripping today.
_________________
Too many hobbies, not enough time!
1935 Austin Seven Ruby ARQ
1957 Austin A35 2-door
1967 Morris Minor 2-door
2007 Fiat Doblò MultiJet (It carries the spares etc)
Model Engineering
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mikeC



Joined: 31 Jul 2009
Posts: 1771
Location: Market Warsop, Nottinghamshire

PostPosted: Thu May 12, 2016 9:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

In all probability the white deposits are just powdered aluminium and merely signify the engine has been standing without water in it, so everything has dried out. I would certainly recommend flushing out the water passages.

The clutch mousetrap springs should be in contact with the clutch levers - the springs have probably lost their tension and the levers may have seized in their guides, so that the two are no longer in contact. The spring should sit in the slight depression at the extremity of the lever.
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OuBallie



Joined: 02 Mar 2013
Posts: 225
Location: South Norfolk next to Suffolk

PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2016 12:37 pm    Post subject: Update Reply with quote

Quick sideline, as I will be using the machine to do upholstery.
Singer 660 A1 sewing machine:
Have at last got the beast to operate as if it has a servo motor fitted.
https://youtu.be/MWxBU-OiH-0
Proof:
https://youtu.be/fL-OwC3GuaU

Ruby Painting:
Thinking about how to proceed with painting the loose body parts, once stripped of paint, I came up with the 'brilliant' idea of hooking them onto a rail suspended from the Carport roof beams:

New toy:
The old compressor proved useless at doing much more than operating an air gun, airbrush or inflating tyres, but it then started tripping the ELCB before the pressure switch died, after spewing a fat spark.

I had bought a Miller Soda Blaster (MSB) years ago, so what better time to actually start using it, but a more manly compressor was needed.
Wolf Air Dakota 100 the new toy the result:

Assembled and next to the MSB unit:

Photos of the method I used to fit the wheels:
http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/Geoff_Halstead/Wolf%20Dakota%20100%20compressor/story

Engine:
Whilst waiting for an adaptor to connect compressor to the MSB unit, decided it was the perfect opportunity to strip the engine.
Removing the flywheel:
https://youtu.be/UP0SHOrKsokk
Removing the cylinder block:
https://youtu.be/fL-OwC3GuaU
Removing cam followers and valve springs:
https://youtu.be/O4Qrrat4tuU
REPO:
https://youtu.be/apSP8QhDpgM
Mangled bolt head on the oil pump:

The only tool that would loosen it:


Geoff - Approaching 30° in the Carport 😓
_________________
Too many hobbies, not enough time!
1935 Austin Seven Ruby ARQ
1957 Austin A35 2-door
1967 Morris Minor 2-door
2007 Fiat Doblò MultiJet (It carries the spares etc)
Model Engineering
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