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1935 Armstrong Siddeley 17HP Sports Saloon
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greenbeam



Joined: 10 Jun 2015
Posts: 77
Location: Adelaide, Australia

PostPosted: Sun May 29, 2016 3:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ahhh, good point Mike. I imagine that the switch would be mounted on the firewall, which I haven't fitted to the chassis yet. I'll dig it out and have a look.

Thanks for that.
Paul.
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1963 Sunbeam Alpine Series 3
1935 Armstrong Siddeley 17HP Sports Saloon
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petelang



Joined: 21 May 2009
Posts: 242
Location: Nottingham

PostPosted: Sun May 29, 2016 11:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The brake light switch is mounted within the right hand chassis side just to the rear of the brake cross shift. You should have two small holes in the chassis side to mount it. I'll try to photograph it but have to take my floor up to view it.
Peter
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greenbeam



Joined: 10 Jun 2015
Posts: 77
Location: Adelaide, Australia

PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2016 8:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the offer of a picture Peter, that would be a great help.

As I've already said, I have boxes of parts but no information as to how it all goes together. A photo of that area will be a great help. I do have 'mystery holes' in the chassis in various places, some of which I suspect might be for clamps for the wiring loom or the 'one-shot' oil lines, but I don't know for sure.

Regards,
Paul.
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1963 Sunbeam Alpine Series 3
1935 Armstrong Siddeley 17HP Sports Saloon
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petelang



Joined: 21 May 2009
Posts: 242
Location: Nottingham

PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2016 3:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Probably not the best images as I took these waving my phone around aimlessly under the car trying to get a shot of the switch installation. But, mine is mounted to main chassis side rail just abaft the brake cross shift pivot and operated by a pull spring wire.
I'll try to get a better picture in due course but yours of course may be completely different.
Peter

[img]http://s577.photobucket.com/user/petelangdaimler/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0143.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0[/img]
[img]http://s577.photobucket.com/user/petelangdaimler/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0140.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1[/img]
[img]http://s577.photobucket.com/user/petelangdaimler/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0136.jpg.html?sort=3&o=2[/img]
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UmTumTiddly



Joined: 14 Oct 2016
Posts: 29
Location: Ringwood, New Forest.

PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2016 10:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

greenbeam wrote:
Thanks for the offer of a picture Peter, that would be a great help.

As I've already said, I have boxes of parts but no information as to how it all goes together. A photo of that area will be a great help. I do have 'mystery holes' in the chassis in various places, some of which I suspect might be for clamps for the wiring loom or the 'one-shot' oil lines, but I don't know for sure.

Regards,
Paul.


Hi Greenbeam, I am a little bit late to the party having only recently joined this forum but, as you may tell from my 'handle' I am (or was) involved with Armstong Siddeleys. The workers at the factory affectionately referred to the cars as "UmTum Tiddleys" and that became the term of enearment for mine.
Anyway, I once restored the engine and chassis of my 1935 AS 12hp Sports Coupe during the early '70s which went on to win multiple ASOC and other concours events. I just wanted to mention that the front leaf springs were sized to fit one way only. At a cursory glance, it looks like the leaves, from the centre point to the spring hanger points are equal in length. They're not. You probably know this anyway but I thought I'd mention it just in case. Good luck with the rebuild.
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greenbeam



Joined: 10 Jun 2015
Posts: 77
Location: Adelaide, Australia

PostPosted: Sat Dec 03, 2016 12:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

UmTumTiddly,
Thanks very much for that little gem, that's the sort of thing that could drive a man to drink. Smile

I have indeed assumed the front springs are symmetrical and I put them on whatever way they fell to hand. Looks like a closer inspection is called for.

I'm overdue for an update on progress, so will post more news shortly.

BTW, do you have any photos of your old car? I'm a bit of an UmTum prewar nerd and collect photos of all the cars out there.
Best regards,
Paul.


Last edited by greenbeam on Sat Dec 03, 2016 1:47 am; edited 1 time in total
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greenbeam



Joined: 10 Jun 2015
Posts: 77
Location: Adelaide, Australia

PostPosted: Sat Dec 03, 2016 1:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi All,
As promised, a bit of an update on the 1935 17HP Sports Saloon.

I got the brakes assembled, but there was no way any of the drums would go, even with the adjusters wound all the way to their smallest diameter. Eventually I disassembled them, removed the fixed end from the backing plates and then reassembled the shoes/springs etc off the backing plates so I could see what was happening. The radius of the shoes was wrong for the drums, so a trip to a local brake specialist to have the shoes radiused, and it all went together smoothly.

The next step was to get the body back onto the chassis. I mulled over this for a while as I didn't want 4 or 6 people struggling to lift it, then plonk it down awkwardly on the chassis. I settled for one helper, four ladders with 6x2" beams between them with the body sitting on that, we rolled the chassis under it all, then using a hydraulic engine hoist, lowered the body slowly from each end, while moving the chassis into the correct spot. It all went very smoothly and, with the original packers swapped around until it settled, the body was back in place after more than 30 years apart.







I then stripped all the remnants of trim out of the shell, lots of photos and I've saved all the old trim with notes for later. Then the full extent of rotten timber could be seen. It seems the drain tubes for the sliding head (sunroof) had blocked, which has resulted in a lot of rotten timber in the roof section, the rear window rubber has leaked, so rotten under there, and the boot area is all rotten. So I am now talking to a coach-builder about repairing that lot. I also need to recreate the sliding head as that is completely missing and the hole was covered by a sheet of steel pop-rivetted into place (oh the horror Smile).


The chalked 'Part 179' was revealed when I removed the headlining.



I want to get the doors refitted before the timber repairs, as this will be key to getting smoothly opening doors when the body is all stiffened up again.

Regards,
Paul.


Last edited by greenbeam on Mon May 20, 2019 3:25 am; edited 1 time in total
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greenbeam



Joined: 10 Jun 2015
Posts: 77
Location: Adelaide, Australia

PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2019 4:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, a much-needed update on the 17HP Armstrong Siddeley. Quite a bit has happened, but the big thing is the body.

After getting the body onto the chassis and getting the doors rehung (car was in storage with doors off for about 30 years), as I removed interior trim and fittings it became obvious that there was a lot more rot in the frame of the car than I thought. Roof completely rotten, top & bottom of B-pillars, wheel arches, all around & under the boot and on it went.

Basically it was beyond me, as a novice with wood framed cars, to repair. The car was my father's and is the last known 17HP Sports Saloon, so it was either scrap it or commit to a much bigger restoration. Several deep breaths, and the hunt began for someone to do the work. I was recommended to contact a specialist in timber-framed cars in a country town about 1.5 hours away, the car was taken there and thus began the process of rebuilding the bodywork.

The timber frame is not finished yet, but it is close. Enjoy the photos, and I'll add more as the work completes. My intent is to get the body finished there and bring it back home so I can continue to restore the car. Having said that, the coachbuilder has been so good that I will go back without hesitation if I get stuck in the future.

Car at the coachbuilders ready to start...


Firewall in place, note the body off the chassis to the right.


Bottom rails and floor in place:


Scuttle timber done and the aluminium castings for the windscreen back in place:


Rear bodywork blasted, primed and ready to refit, also the frame for the sliding head can be seen underneath. The frame had to be remade because of numerous rust spots.:


Rear bodywork propped in place and new B-pillars fitted:


New sliding head frame in place, roof timbers and top rail above windscreen. Rear timberwork also starting to take shape:


Frame looking pretty complete now, still need to do final fit of timber behind rear wheel arches:


Red-letter day! Car is moved from the timber shop to the panel shop! Still needs about 8-10 pieces of timber final fitted and some finish sanding, but more emphasis now on panel fit, door gaps, etc.


And that is where it is today. I've also been continuing to refurbish parts at home (though not at the pace the coach builder works at), so will post a few updates on other items shortly.

Cheers,
Paul.
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1963 Sunbeam Alpine Series 3
1935 Armstrong Siddeley 17HP Sports Saloon


Last edited by greenbeam on Mon May 20, 2019 5:42 am; edited 1 time in total
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Rootes75



Joined: 30 Apr 2013
Posts: 2734
Location: The Somerset Levels

PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2019 8:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like the workshop has quite a lot of work on.
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1937 Ford 7w
1937 Hillman 80
1946 ERF C.I.5
1947 Hillman Minx
1955 Hillman Minx Mk8
1950 Commer R541
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greenbeam



Joined: 10 Jun 2015
Posts: 77
Location: Adelaide, Australia

PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2019 8:50 am    Post subject: Instrument CHassis Reply with quote

Refurbishing the instrument chassis is ongoing. The chassis itself was in good condition, just needing minor repairs, clean and paint:


The combined oil and water gauge was missing, so another was found with help from the good folk here (thread under the Electrical Restoration Index), and the instruments were rebuilt:


The panel lamp switch had a Bakelite body that fell to pieces as soon as I moved it:


So I turned up a new body to replicate the original one and refitted the original contacts to it:


And this is where I'm up to at the moment. The headlamp and ignition/starter switches are apart for cleaning and to have new labels made, and the keyslot repaired in the starter switch (see thread under Electrical Restoration Index). The very hard to find cigar lighter was found at Beaulieu by a friend and is away having the chrome redone:


As you can see, the instrument chassis is in my display cabinet in the family room at the moment Smile

A new wiring loom is down the track a bit.
Cheers,
Paul. Very Happy
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1963 Sunbeam Alpine Series 3
1935 Armstrong Siddeley 17HP Sports Saloon


Last edited by greenbeam on Mon May 20, 2019 5:20 am; edited 1 time in total
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Rick
Site Admin


Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 20826
Location: North-west UK

PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2019 9:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I love the proportions of it, many thanks for the update and hats off for taking the full restoration option. It's good to see a saloon being restored properly, rather than being cut up into a tourer (or given up on for that matter).

RJ
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Rick (OCC Admin)
Various 1920s-1960s - Austin, Morris, Commer, Dodge etc.
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Rootes75



Joined: 30 Apr 2013
Posts: 2734
Location: The Somerset Levels

PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2019 7:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its also nice to see such a rare car get the treatment it deserves.
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1937 Ford 7w
1937 Hillman 80
1946 ERF C.I.5
1947 Hillman Minx
1955 Hillman Minx Mk8
1950 Commer R541
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Richard H



Joined: 03 Apr 2009
Posts: 2142
Location: Suffolk

PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2019 10:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What a heartwarming thread.

It is absolutely wonderful to see someone who is prepared to spend vast amounts of time and money restoring a saloon to original condition. Regardless of rarity, it seems too often people want to take the easy route of throwing the saloon body away and fit a replica 'sports' body.

Superb work throughout, bet you can't wait to have it trundling along the SA highways once more! Hat truly doffed sir.
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1935 Standard Twelve
1953 Austin A40 Somerset
1958 Austin A55 Cambridge
1959 Austin A35
1980 Vauxhall Royale 2.8 auto
1987 Austin Maestro 1.3 L
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greenbeam



Joined: 10 Jun 2015
Posts: 77
Location: Adelaide, Australia

PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2019 9:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Current restoration/repair challenge is the steering column mounted horn/dip switch. The body is made of Bakelite and quite long putting considerable load on the two mounting screws, which breaks the side out of the Bakelite body.

I have three of these, all failed in the same place.


For now, I'm going to try to repair the best of them using the worst one as a donor of Bakelite material. I am going to try filing the donor part to get some Bakelite powder (carefully, Bakelite has been known to contain asbestos filler), which I will mix with 2-part epoxy to build up the missing material on the piece being repaired. I'll also drill and fit some steel pins to give it a bit more strength.


If that all goes well, I will attempt to repair the second one so I have a spare.

Wish me luck!
Cheers,
Paul.
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1963 Sunbeam Alpine Series 3
1935 Armstrong Siddeley 17HP Sports Saloon
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