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Ford Popular 103e
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steve7184



Joined: 12 Nov 2015
Posts: 5

PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 9:32 pm    Post subject: Ford Popular 103e Reply with quote

Hi there,

I bought a barn find two years ago, a 1956 Ford Popular 103e and I'm completely stumped as to how to get it started.

First though, can I tell you about its history as I know it. I bought it of a farmer who was going to scrap it but his son asked him if he could keep it so he could hot rod it. This according to the farmer was in 1971. The son went to university, met a girl, got married and moved away to do his new job and promptly forgot about the Pop. So did the farmer! His farm is massive and it wasn't until two and a half years ago when one of his barns blew down that he rediscovered the Pop, covered in straw and looking very sorry for itself.

The farmer told me that after 43 years standing the engine was seized, but when I got it home, I tried the starting handle and it turned easily. I took off the head and checked the valves, two were stuck, freed them and re grounded them, cleaned of the pistons and renewed all the gaskets, then renewed all the obvious, engine oil, plugs, leads, points, condenser etc. I've got the original Ford Pop maintenance book and I've followed it to the letter but it still won't start. I have had it fire when turning it over, so I know that there is compression ( which scared the life out of me) and according to the side valve club I have the firing sequence in order 1,2,4,3 and I've done the TDC. So can anyone tell me where I'm going wrong?

It has so much character and it deserves a second chance. It's survived for the past 44 years and I would love to see back on the road.

I will try to post some photos of it.

Thanks for taking the time to read this,

Steve
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kevin2306



Joined: 01 Jul 2013
Posts: 1331
Location: nr Llangollen, north wales

PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 9:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you got fuel through the carb? Is the fuel fresh?
If you have sparks, compression and fuel if should go. Get back to basics, check timing, compression, sparks and fuel.

Kev
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Rick
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Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 20841
Location: North-west UK

PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 10:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Welcome to the forum Steve.

As Kev says, check for fuel (plugs getting wet?) and spark, maybe using a gravity fuel feed (ie tin of fuel connected straight to the carb inlet), to bypass the pump, tank and line for the timebeing.

Have the jets in the carb been removed and blown through? Also check the emulsion block, and gasket, that screws to the side of the float chamber, in case it's gummed up.

Have you done a compression test on it, just to see what the readings are, and whether they're consistent(ish)?

RJ
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Various 1920s-1960s - Austin, Morris, Commer, Dodge etc.
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47Jag



Joined: 26 Jun 2008
Posts: 1468
Location: Bothwell, Scotland

PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2015 12:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Steve,

Was No. 1 on the compression stroke when you set TDC? Don't forget that No. 4 cylinder is also at TDC, so maybe you have the leads 180 degrees out of sync.

Art
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Rootes75



Joined: 30 Apr 2013
Posts: 2744
Location: The Somerset Levels

PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2015 3:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Steve,

You say it 'fires' occasionally so I would presume some fuel is getting through, have you taken a look at the carb?
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steve7184



Joined: 12 Nov 2015
Posts: 5

PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2015 5:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,

I have set up a gravity feed for the fuel, so it is fresh petrol, (the petrol tanks half full of 43 years of yellow gunk), I've feed that through the petrol pump, manually primed it and checked it was getting to the carburetor, which it is. I didn't know about the 4th cylinder being TDC so I will check the distributor. At the minute the distributer is seized on the head and won't budge so I can't advance or retard the ignition.

As you are all probably aware, I have no knowledge about mechanics and I'm learning as I go (very slowly) and I'm starting to think I missed something really simple or knowing my luck there is a major engine fault. Saying that, the farmer I bought it of did say it was running when he put it in the barn and I have no reason to disbelieve him. I actually rang him a couple of weeks ago and asked him did he have any problems starting it back then. He said it would always start with no problems unless it was really cold or hadn't been run for a few weeks. In this case he would take of the air filter (oil bath type), put his palm over the opening and get someone to crank the engine.

Because it's a six volt battery, I've been tending to use the starting handle more to conserve the power. I've noticed there doesn't seem to much resistance when cranking, only slight. Is this normal for a side valve? Back in the eighties I had a series II Landrover and that would take your thumb of you in a flash if you weren't holding the handle correctly and put your back out!

Thanks to you all for the advice, this weekend I'll try to post some photos up

Cheers.
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Rick
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Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 20841
Location: North-west UK

PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2015 7:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

With the plugs in, there should be a useful amount of resistance felt when turning it on the handle. A compression test would be a good move, if you can get the battery to do the honours.

Sooner or later you'll need to adjust - or at least be sure of - the ignition timing, using the pin that you push through the timing chain cover at the front. I'd make freeing up the dizzy a priority tbh.

Are you getting a spark to all plugs?

Keep at it Smile

RJ
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47Jag



Joined: 26 Jun 2008
Posts: 1468
Location: Bothwell, Scotland

PostPosted: Sat Nov 14, 2015 12:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Steve,

Where are you? There may be a member of the forum close by who is willing to help you.

Art
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Kenham



Joined: 12 Mar 2012
Posts: 175
Location: Kent

PostPosted: Sat Nov 14, 2015 12:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello,I think the first thing I would do is ditch the 6 volt battery and fit a 12 volt coil and battery. Dont worry about the starter that will be ok on 12 volts.If you have not had the pistons out squirt some oil down the plug holes as the rings will be dry , this will boost compression a bit. I would not think the timing would be far out as you have not moved it since the last time it ran but as said plug leads could be wrong. A squirt of petrol down the air intake when spinning it over will tell if petrol shortage is an issue with the carb.I persisted with 6 volts on my E83W for a long time but eventually changed to 12 and can honestly say it became a different vehicle. Most of the ignition parts you can buy now are absolute rubbish is another problem to contend with. Ken
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Roger-hatchy



Joined: 07 Dec 2007
Posts: 2144
Location: Tiptree, Essex

PostPosted: Sat Nov 14, 2015 10:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

As Ken said, use a 12 volt coil and battery.
Also if you stay on 12 volt you'll need to change the dynamo for a 12 volt.

The DLM used a Ford E93a since 1959 with a 12 volt system with a 6 volt starter.
Spins over a lot quicker as well.

As Art said there must be someone close to you to offer a hand, county would be a close enough pointer.
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steve7184



Joined: 12 Nov 2015
Posts: 5

PostPosted: Sat Nov 14, 2015 10:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Morning,

Once again thanks for the advice. I have been wanting to change to a 12 volt, but I really don't know how to do it. Would I have to change all the wiring in the car? Also,the car is a 6 volt positive earthed. How would it affect it changing it to negative earthed? And would I have to change the regulator box?

I know I'm sounding like a lost cause, but I do get a lot of satisfaction out of it and I want to get it going again.

Steve. Ps. I'm in the West Midlands.
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Posts: 6135
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Sat Nov 14, 2015 4:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Steve,

You don't need to change the wiring. Obviously you need to change all the light bulbs. You also need to change the dynamo, regulator, coil, horn and starter motor. Semaphore trafficators also need to be changed. I'm not sure about the fuel gauge. It might work without alteration. I assume your wipers are vacuum operated so no change there.

I think I have seen others commenting that 6 volt starter motors survive the change but I might be wrong.

Peter
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kevin2306



Joined: 01 Jul 2013
Posts: 1331
Location: nr Llangollen, north wales

PostPosted: Sat Nov 14, 2015 6:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would concentrate on getting it running on 6v before introducing more possible issues.
Be methodical, fuel, sparks etc.

Kev
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Rick
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Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 20841
Location: North-west UK

PostPosted: Sat Nov 14, 2015 7:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If set up right, they run perfectly fine on 6v, so long as extended regular night running isn't on the cards. Even then, they worked in period, just make sure that all connections are 100%, and that the main battery cables are beefy enough.

RJ
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Various 1920s-1960s - Austin, Morris, Commer, Dodge etc.
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Classicars



Joined: 07 Feb 2011
Posts: 58

PostPosted: Sat Nov 14, 2015 7:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Last edited by Classicars on Mon Jan 04, 2016 11:12 pm; edited 2 times in total
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