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Cable brakes: what finish on the spiral-wound part
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greenbeam



Joined: 10 Jun 2015
Posts: 77
Location: Adelaide, Australia

PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2016 4:11 am    Post subject: Cable brakes: what finish on the spiral-wound part Reply with quote

Hi all,
First off, apologies for my lack of knowledge on brake cables, terminology, etc.

I have remanufactured cables for my 1935 Armstrong Siddeley project (car is in pieces, but it came with refurbished cables). I assume that one doesn't paint the metal spiral protective part, because it needs oil to pass through to the cable. If that is correct, then what if anything should be done to 'finish' the spiral part?

Perhaps just wire brush over the metal and oil the brake lines, perhaps a light clear coating to stop surface rust? Any advice would be most appreciated.

Regards,
Paul.
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1963 Sunbeam Alpine Series 3
1935 Armstrong Siddeley 17HP Sports Saloon
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ka



Joined: 03 Dec 2007
Posts: 600
Location: Orkney.

PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2016 8:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Older type cables had the inner running directly against the outer flexible sheathing, new cables have a PTFE, Nylon or some other self-lubricating liner between the sheath and the inner cable. These ideally should be lubricated with a silicon based lube, and not oil.
Some of the older cables could be identified by the oil nipple along their length, newer cables do not usually have this.
If you want to disguise the outer flexible, then use some shrink-rap tubing.
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KA

Better three than four.
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greenbeam



Joined: 10 Jun 2015
Posts: 77
Location: Adelaide, Australia

PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2016 12:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi KA, thanks for the reply and info. My cables have the oil nipple along the length, so I suspect no PTFE inner liner. I don't want to disguise the flexible, just not sure if I need to do anything to protect the outer material, and to best look after the cables (oil regularly of course).

Cheers,
Paul.
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1963 Sunbeam Alpine Series 3
1935 Armstrong Siddeley 17HP Sports Saloon
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goneps



Joined: 18 Jun 2013
Posts: 601
Location: Auckland, New Zealand

PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2016 9:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In my experience there's no need to 'protect' the inner cable. On many cars, the Morris Eight being an example I'm familiar with, the entire length of the handbrake cables is exposed, ie. there is no outer sheath, and they don't rust. Presumably such cables are made from steel wire that's corrosion resistant.

More to the point is a rubber sheath over the end of the outer to prevent muck getting inside. Attention to such detail has long been a feature of Japanese cars.

Richard
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greenbeam



Joined: 10 Jun 2015
Posts: 77
Location: Adelaide, Australia

PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2016 6:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just to close off this thread:
1. I wasn't worried about the inner cable, it will be oiled per the owner's manual.

2. I was interested in how to finish and protect the part of the cable covered by a metal, spiral-wound 'sleeve'.

I ended up running over the spiral sleeve with a wire wheel to remove old surface rust, then giving the sleeve a light coat of clear lacquer from a pressure pack can. It will be interesting to see if the clear coating makes any difference.

Cheers,
Paul.
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1963 Sunbeam Alpine Series 3
1935 Armstrong Siddeley 17HP Sports Saloon
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ka



Joined: 03 Dec 2007
Posts: 600
Location: Orkney.

PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2016 8:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pleased to read you have reached a point where you are happy. As far as I understand, all flexible cables were exposed, therefore would have rusted, but with little harm to the inner. A clear lacquer maintains the original look, but without the downside of a rusty finish.
As an aside, I use an old oil pumping gun for my motorcycle. I am not sure if the internals are a lot different from a grease gun, but I would suspect the sliding seal is more closer fitting. Anybody have any views?
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