Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[garyjpaterson]

Ok, here we have our 1953 Anglia - complete with distinctive number plate - which has sat for almost all of my life.



I'm 22, and this Anglia has sat in our shed since we moved here, so about 18 years if I recall correctly. The Anglia was bought and (kinda)restored by my dad when he was young, being used for camping trips and classic rallies in the past.

Its now been quite a few years since my dad passed away, and I'm just starting to wonder what to do with the old thing. I really enjoy getting my hands dirty do as much mechanic stuff as I can, though I'm really not all that confident (I'm just about keeping my '91 BMW E34 on the road).

A restoration is not really something I'm looking at, though I'm very interested in finding out what needs done to get it running. You can see from the pics that restored is a stretch, but has had plenty of work nevertheless. It was kept in good running order, and last ran when I was maybe 2 or 3 years old, so almost 20 years ago! I seem to remember its had an engine swap, from a 933cc engine to the 1172cc engine, I can't remember the exact details but I know we have loads of history. Interior was never really finished, missing door cards and probably plenty other bits of trim.

I have no experience working on cars of this age, and I don't really know where to start. If I find out it's too much to get running, I'll look into selling, though if possible I'd like to at least give it a go and see what I can do.

So I suppose the first thing I should mention is compression, or lack of. There seems to be very little compression, though I have no idea what to expect from a 1 litre 4 cyl engine. Its definitely not seized anyway I've heard plenty of stuff to do with seized valves etc, so not entirely sure where to begin.

If anyone has some pointers, give me a shout!

Some photos:

[peter scott]

Hi Gary,

Welcome to the forum.

If you can work on a BMW then you'll find working on the Anglia very easy.

The low compressions could be due to stuck valves although I wouldn't expect them all to be stuck so if that were a problem then I think you'd feel at least a couple of cylinders with a little compression. Another possibility is that the rings are stuck in their grooves.

If I were you I'd just try to start it and you might find that as things warm up then compressions will return.

If it was running on the road 20 years ago there shouldn't be too much to do to get it running. The points will need cleaned and fresh petrol would be needed. Assuming there is oil in the sump and not too black that should be OK.

Things you may need to attend to might be freeing the clutch if stuck to the flywheel and some aspects of the brakes may need to be freed.

Such things as door cards are easy to make. The original paintwork looks great and is a big bonus.

I hope you get it going and get some enjoyment from it and let us know how you get on.


Peter
_________________
http://www.nostalgiatech.co.uk
1939 SS Jaguar 2 1/2 litre saloon

[Rick]

Welcome aboard - the Anglia looks great (ISTR it being advertised a little while back? the photos look familiar).

RJ
_________________
Rick - Admin
Home:https://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk
Videos:https://www.youtube.com/user/oldclassiccarRJ/videos
OCC & classic car merchandise (Austin, Ford ++):
https://www.redbubble.com/people/OldClassicCar/shop

[garyjpaterson]

Thanks guys.

Peter - Ha, you say try to start it, I've never started a car with a crank before. I take it the battery will need charged before making any sort of starting attempt? Not sure it'll even hold a charge these days.
I'll check fluids, hope there are some! Any way to drain the tank? And is there a fuel filter, can it be cleaned?
Brakes aren't seized, the car rolls around just fine when the tyres are inflated.

Rick - Yeah I had it up for sale a while back on Gumtree and I'd be happy for it to go to a good home, though I have an urge to see it running again if its not too much of a task.

[Rick]

At the very least a change of oil will be wise.

The tank should have a drain plug on the bottom, just be careful swinging on it too forcefully.

There's a filter in the top of the fuel pump, it'd be worth checking that, and also blowing through the fuel line while you're at it in case there's any muck in there.

The battery looks like a 6 volt job, as per original.

If you can spin it over prior to trying to start it, it'll get some oil around which won't harm at all if it's been stood a while.

RJ
_________________
Rick - Admin
Home:https://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk
Videos:https://www.youtube.com/user/oldclassiccarRJ/videos
OCC & classic car merchandise (Austin, Ford ++):
https://www.redbubble.com/people/OldClassicCar/shop

[Rootes75]

A lovely little car on the road with minimum fuss.
_________________
Various Rootes Vehicles.

[roverdriver]

First up, Gary, you will never get it to start on the handle unless there is some power in the battery. A coil/distributor ignition system cannot create its own electricity. It is highly unlikely that the battery in the car will hold a charge at all so a substitute battery will be needed.

Rick's suggestion of plenty of handle-turning prior to attempting a start is an excellent idea, it will circulate the oil so that parts inside the engine have a chance of becoming lubricated, it might even free up the rings, and maybe the circulated oil could improve your compression problem.

I would recommend a squirt of oil into each cylinder as well, to both lubricate the top end, and help with compression.

With an engine that has sat for so long, there is a possibility that the normal 'at rest' automatic spark retard might not be where it should be, therefore the spark might be in a slightly advanced position which could result in the engine kicking back against the starting handle. It is a small risk, but one to be aware of.

Having squirted oil, and turned the engine through many revolutions, then will be the time to try a proper start. If you don't have access to a good battery, then you can substitute a 6 volt torch battery- the type with spring contacts on the top will work if you are hand-cranking as the battery is only needed to provide current for the spark.

If you have never hand started a car before, then don't wind away as if you are operating a mangle. Make sure that the engine is primed- i.e. fuel at the carby, choke out, ignition off, and give the handle four half-turns. That is, insert and engage the handle as near as possible to the 6 o'clock position, then gently pull up to 12.00 o'clock. Turn the handle back to 6.00 and repeat. Practice with your LEFT hand and do not wrap your thumb around the handle.

Now with the battery connected, turn the ignition switch on, and again using the LEFT hand do another pull up. If a cylinder fires and the spark is too far advanced, the engine will try to run in reverse, and with the handle in the left hand, the handle will pull out of your grasp quite harmlessly. In the right hand, the handle can fly around and hit the back of your hand with dire consequences.

If you don't get a start in a couple of pulls, then push in the choke and try a few more times.

If you can justify it, buying a 6 volt car battery and using the self starter would be a simpler option.

Good luck, and tell us how you get on,
Dane.
_________________
Dane- roverdriver but not a Viking.

[garyjpaterson]

Thanks guys, really good info. Not sure when but I'll hopefully give it a go soon.

Few questions though (sorry if they are really stupid questions);

When cranking, I'm assuming I crack clockwise (thats standing in front of the car looking at it). Wouldn't want to cause any damage cranking the wrong way!

Also, oil, what sort of engine oil I use, will it matter for just checking if it runs? Any way to find out the spec for the engine?

Cheers for the help so far

[Rick]

Hi,

Yep turn clockwise on the starting handle - just hold it in such a way that if it backfires, it doesn't kick back and break your thumb As Dane says, finding a replacement 6v battery will make spinning it over a whole lot easier.

For testing, any 20/50 oil will do the job. There isn't usually an oil filter, although it was an option.

RJ
_________________
Rick - Admin
Home:https://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk
Videos:https://www.youtube.com/user/oldclassiccarRJ/videos
OCC & classic car merchandise (Austin, Ford ++):
https://www.redbubble.com/people/OldClassicCar/shop

[Penman]

Hi
It shouldn't be possible to crank the wrong way, the dogs on the crank nut should have a sklope on them so that the handle comes out of the slots when the engine starts.
_________________
Bristols should always come in pairs.

Any 2 from:-
Straight 6
V8 V10

[garyjpaterson]

Morning all,

Haven't actually made any progress yet, but been out and had a good look around. Here's what I've found:


It has plenty of oil, right up to the 'full' line, and the it looks very clean too. Can't have done much miles since its last change. I have bought some 20/50 (its green :O) and will change it anyway.

Radiator seems to hold water, and the hoses did too... until I squeezed them (very very perished) Now the bottom one leaks, and presumably the top one does too though I don't think the water is at that level. I'll have to get new hoses, since i'd imagine with a bit of heat/pressure in the water they won't stand a chance.

Is there anywhere anyone would recommend for buying spares like water hoses for the Anglia? This is all i could find, though at about £20 a pipe seems a little steep?

https://www.smallfordspares.co.uk/categories/small-ford-spares-cooling-system-hose?vehicle=anglia-model-e494a-1949

Haven't looked at fuel yet, but i did start to wonder- Will I need to buy some sort of lead additive, and if so, any recommendations?

I have a couple 6v torch batteries on the way, as a proper one is a little to expensive for me to find out I can't get it running, though of course I have no problem getting one if need be.

Also found a bunch of gaskets in the back, might they be useful or do gaskets deteriorate with age? Not sure what they are all for, I'll stick up a photo of them all later.

Cheers

[Rick]

I wouldn't bother with a lead additive tbh, certainly for testing purposes.

The gaskets should still be ok if they've been stored flat.

As there's no water pump to run dry (unless it has an optional one fitted), you should be ok firing it up with dodgy hoses, at least to test the theory of whether it will run or not. Just don't let it run for long.

RJ
_________________
Rick - Admin
Home:https://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk
Videos:https://www.youtube.com/user/oldclassiccarRJ/videos
OCC & classic car merchandise (Austin, Ford ++):
https://www.redbubble.com/people/OldClassicCar/shop

[garyjpaterson]

Cheers,

Really looking forward to getting going on this, just need to wait for the batteries to arrive then - should only be a few days. I'll stop on the way home and fill up a jerry can too.
Also, whereabouts is the fuel pump located (I haven't looked yet)? Is it in the tank itself, like it is on my BMW?

Still need to find the keys though...

[PAUL BEAUMONT]

Gary, you sound a bit like a young friend of mine who inherited his father's mid-1930s Jowett as a teenager. He asked a lot of questions and got a lot of help and support and he now has a really nice car. Unfortunately he is in the west-country and so about as far from you as yuou can get without crossing water, but If you would like to talk to him pm me and I will put you in touch.

[Rick]