Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[emmerson]

When you do find the key, I think you'll find that it turns to the left to switch on.

Or has my memory finally failed?

[garyjpaterson]

[roverdriver]

As a check, remove the King lead (the HT lead from the coil), then position it so that it is almost against the metal of the engine. You might need to put a weight on it to keep it in place. From the end of the lead to the engine should be a gap of only about .010 of an inch (ten thousandths). Now use the screwdriver to open the points. You should see a spark between the king lead and the engine.

If you have a spark there, then your spark is being lost somewhere between the king lead and the plugs. That could be the distributor cap itself being moist or cracked, the carbon contact in the cap being worn out, a failed rotor, or less likely, failed plug leads.

Assuming you do get a reasonable spark from the king lead, I would expect that one or other of your distributor caps will be o.k., so I would suggest that you try another rotor.

I hope that helps, Keep us up to date with your experimenting,
Dane
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Dane- roverdriver but not a Viking.

[garyjpaterson]

Thanks Dane, I'll check it later. When I found the spare Cap I also found a couple of spare rotors, although I'm not sure if they are new or not, and one of them was definitely a different shape. If I confirm a spark on the king lead I'll try the rotor next.

Cheers

[garyjpaterson]

Hi folks, sorry about the 5 year old thread resurrection!

I don't remember the reason why I gave up on getting the Anglia started 5 years ago, most likely it just got forgotten. However, i've been getting the itch to give it another go, and i remembered I started this thread so it was good to read back over it and see what I did and didn't try.

This time i forked out for a new battery, and had the combustion chamber soaking for a few days to hopefully free up the valves and rings etc. Had it turning over by hand with and without plugs in, and also later with the starter motor - compression feels really good now on the handle.
With the new battery, i was getting a great spark (i did clean the points).
I cleaned the float bowl (was looking a little grimey), put some fuel in the bowl and also disconnected the fuel line so to not pump through the old fuel I put in years ago.
And so i turned it over, slowly I could hear it firing one cylinder, then another, becoming more and more frequent. Took a few refills of the float bowl, but finally I did get it running, if only for a short moment!

I'm really chuffed to hear it going honestly, I have no memory of it running. I recently found a notebook of my dads, describing all the work he'd done over the years, the last entry was in 1995 (so the year after I was born!)

My main concern now is getting a proper fuel feed - whilst turning over I didn't get any fuel pumping out of the line, so hopefully its just the lines are blocked and not a fault with the pump. Either way I'll be looking into that next.

Here are a couple short clips I managed to grab - you can hear its not starting great yet, but I'm sure the carb will benefit a proper clean and an always replenished float bowl! I'm just delighted to have heard it momentarily, tells me the timing isn't completely off or anything like that.

https://streamable.com/097u2n

https://streamable.com/rpli92

[peter scott]

Good to hear that you have signs of life from the Anglia Gary.

Peter
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http://www.nostalgiatech.co.uk
1939 SS Jaguar 2 1/2 litre saloon

[Ray White]

I think that's going to be O.K..you know.

I have a soft spot for these old Fords... my first car... I bought it for £2 (to save it from the scrap man).

It had been Boy Scout transport when we went camping in North Wales and I have unforgettable memories of the Scout Master trying to keep it on a narrow mountain pass with a sheer drop.

[Vulgalour]

If you can, get hold of an ultrasonic cleaner. Shouldn't need to be a fancy one, we used a cheapy middle-of-Lidl jewellery cleaner sort with a plastic tub in it to raise the fluid capacity. Carburettor-friendly cleaning fluid is readily available online from various places and after a few cycles you'll have everything good as new again. It's also great for cleaning out brass mesh filters since there's no need to use mechanical abrasion that might damage finer mesh.

[Rick]

[alastairq]

Hi...when considering the Anglia it is well worthwhile joining the FSOC.
[Ford Sidevalve Owners Club]

Not only for expert tech advice, but for the access to the very comprehensive Club stores.

In fact, given a number of issues regarding quality control, I have learnt [the hard way] to use the Club stores in preference to trade outlets.
Fuel pumps can be had from the club, for reasonable prices...the Club membership has the benefit of allowing free delivery of spare parts ordered, too..An email to the club storekeeper, and the bits are on their way...

Don't forget to replace all rubber fuel lines present, with 100% ethanol-resistant rubber{?} hoses too.

The fuel tank may well need cleaning out properly...possibly cheaper to obtain a tank from the club instead?
_________________
Dellow Mk2, 1951 built, reg 1952.
Fiat 126 BIS
Cannon special [1996 registered. Built in 1950's]
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Ford Pop chassis, Ashley 1172 bodyshell, in pieces.

[roverdriver]

Well done, Gary.
Now that you know it runs, I am sure that you will make some good progress getting it on the road.
_________________
Dane- roverdriver but not a Viking.

[garyjpaterson]

Thank everyone!

@Vulgalour - I've been thinking about an ultrasonic cleaner for a while, been tinkering with old bikes for the past couple years Will make a nice early christmas present for myself.

@Rick - Lovely car you've got - I'd actually already been watching some of your videos. Its great motivation to get mine rolling!

@alastairq - Great advice, will definitely look into the club!

Took the tank out, its actually in surprisingly good nick, really pleased about that. Blew through the fuel lines, they are fine also (though as alastair suggested, I'll be replacing the rubber ones). Seems the fuel pump isn't doing its job, took the top off and it is a bit mucky though didn't look fully blocked.
Will have to take the whole thing off and investigate further, check the diaphragm etc. The pump itself seems to be a little different from the repair manual - no hand primer sadly, and no sediment drain plug. Will have to be careful if I need to purchase any replacement bits for it. I know the engine was changed to a 10hp at one point in its life, so not sure if the pump was any different for that.

Feel free to drop in any other advice, its very welcome. I'll let you know if I make any more progress

[Ray White]

You have probably already read about how to make valve adjustments? If not, you are in for a treat.

There is no facility for tappet adjustment so to take up clearance the ends of the valve stems needs to be ground. If you need more clearance you have to lap in the valve seat.

Also, the valve guides are split and slightly tapered to fit in a matching taper in the block and a special drift is needed to loosen the guide.

Don't blame me!

[alastairq]

There again, valve adjustment isn't often needed on these engines.
However, what one can do, with the Ford sidevalves, is to measure and correct the valve lift, to gain the optimum lift, whilst still leaving the required gap.
This then takes into account slight dimensional variations in cam followers and cam lobes.
Try that trick on an overhead valve engine, on one's driveway?
_________________
Dellow Mk2, 1951 built, reg 1952.
Fiat 126 BIS
Cannon special [1996 registered. Built in 1950's]
----------------------------------------------
Ford Pop chassis, Ashley 1172 bodyshell, in pieces.

[Ray White]

My Dad had a sideline converting the rods to take shells.

A " nice little earner " .