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The old girl spluttered,popped and banged and died today
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Paul fairall



Joined: 17 Nov 2016
Posts: 431
Location: North west Kent

PostPosted: Sat Apr 22, 2017 9:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

alastairq wrote:
A problem I have suffered concerns the distributor.

If there is a bit of crankcase pressure [when hot] I have suffered having oil mist being blown up past the distributor shaft, leading to oil droplets forming on the points.
This can be seen when examining the distributor cap after the misbehavior....cleaning the cap is temporary, as it soon mists up again.

Crankcase pressure always occurs to a greater or lesser degree....and with the 10hp, it finds it difficult to dissipate that pressure...despite having a large-ish oil filler orifice.

My cure has been to switch to one of the Hall-effect conversions which replaces the actual points. I don't have much faith in magic boxes, however.
i checked the points gap, cleaned the rotor arm and checked inside the distributor cap, all good.
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alastairq



Joined: 14 Oct 2016
Posts: 1307
Location: East Yorkshire

PostPosted: Sat Apr 22, 2017 9:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very often, all that would be needed would be to pass a clean bit of cloth between the CB contacts....

Does the fuel pump have a spacer between it and the block?
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Paul fairall



Joined: 17 Nov 2016
Posts: 431
Location: North west Kent

PostPosted: Sat Apr 22, 2017 9:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

alastairq wrote:
Very often, all that would be needed would be to pass a clean bit of cloth between the CB contacts....

Does the fuel pump have a spacer between it and the block?
i would need to have a look. If so would that make it pump less fuel? It's been running ok until now.
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ukdave2002



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 3498
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Sat Apr 22, 2017 9:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stick it on a scope; takes all the guesswork out with these sort of faults.

Dave
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Paul fairall



Joined: 17 Nov 2016
Posts: 431
Location: North west Kent

PostPosted: Sun Apr 23, 2017 3:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

had another look at the pop today, pulled the pipe off the fuel filter inlet and drained some fuel into a container, looks clean. Removed the plugs, cleaned and gapped them then checked for sparks on all caps, all ok. Removed the float bowl from the zenith and cleaned it. Removed all the jets and cleaned. Removed the filler cap. Started the engine and it ran quite smoothly after warm up.
Removed the filler caps locking mechanism, seal and brass ring under the seal. Cleaned all the cobwebs and crap from under the cap. Cannot see any breather hole.

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Paul fairall



Joined: 17 Nov 2016
Posts: 431
Location: North west Kent

PostPosted: Sun Apr 23, 2017 3:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote



Alastair, there is no spacer behind the mechanical fuel pump.
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ka



Joined: 03 Dec 2007
Posts: 600
Location: Orkney.

PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 8:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a similar issue on the A55 on the way back from Ireland. Turned out it was the coil at fault. New coil cured it.
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KA

Better three than four.
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Paul fairall



Joined: 17 Nov 2016
Posts: 431
Location: North west Kent

PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 12:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just ordered a 12v coil, the last piece of the 12v conversion puzzle and electronic ignition I will fit after the 12v conversion and I know the car still starts. No point looking for a problem that could be one thing or another.
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GARAGE HERMIT



Joined: 20 Mar 2017
Posts: 186
Location: stockton upon tees, cleveland,

PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 8:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

all this talk of "vaporisation" what about all the car's that were exported to africa/india etc, a bit warmer than over here,
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petelang



Joined: 21 May 2009
Posts: 252
Location: Nottingham

PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 8:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Today's ethanol fuels suffer from this problem much more than old fashioned petrol.
Peter
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Kenham



Joined: 12 Mar 2012
Posts: 182
Location: Kent

PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 9:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought for a long time my E83W suffered from the fuel vapourising, eventually found out it was the new ignition components. A lot are made in china and really are rubbish, start the car at night and look under the bonnet, mine looked like nov 5th with all the sparks jumping everywhere.
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Peter_L



Joined: 10 Apr 2008
Posts: 2350
Location: New Brunswick. Canada.

PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 11:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Move lame duck ! Plugs out, first or reverse, crank it up on the starter motor
.


Last edited by Peter_L on Wed Apr 26, 2017 4:27 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Paul fairall



Joined: 17 Nov 2016
Posts: 431
Location: North west Kent

PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 11:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

peterwpg wrote:
Move lame duck ! Plugs out, first or reverse, crank it up on the starter.
if you are advising me about moving the car you obviously didn't read my post where I stated just that, I put it in reverse and hand cranked it into the garage.
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Peter_L



Joined: 10 Apr 2008
Posts: 2350
Location: New Brunswick. Canada.

PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 11:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paul fairall wrote:
peterwpg wrote:
Move lame duck ! Plugs out, first or reverse, crank it up on the starter.
if you are advising me about moving the car you obviously didn't read my post where I stated just that, I put it in reverse and hand cranked it into the garage.


I wasn't advising you, and obviously I am too stupid to understand your posting. !!@!!
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alastairq



Joined: 14 Oct 2016
Posts: 1307
Location: East Yorkshire

PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 12:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is your rotor arm a 'new' one? It is often these which break down in usage.....something about the Chinese factories using [too much?] carbon in the plastic mix? This has been ongoing for over 20 years now....

If going down the route of modernising the basic ignition system [I recommend getting rid of the points, & using a Hall sensor kit]....I recommend contacting

http://www.distributordoctor.com/


They [he?] makes his own rotor arms to overcome the problems mentioned above.

Also, he can supply a kit, including new baseplate, for a hall sensor to replace the points. [for the 8/10 HP Ford, and 100E]

Why replace the points? Well, if one puts a timing strobe on the marks when the engine is running, and rev it up...one can see the full advance bobbing around all over the place.

This is due to the vagaries of a bit of spring steel, and wear & tear on the dizzy cam lobes, etc.

A hall sensor eliminates all that,yet retains the coil. On my Dellow [which is running 100E engine, on E93A transmission]....starting is incredibly reliable, and the timing marks are very steady under a strobe.

Another plus is eliminating the problems of the points contacts fouling...especially on a Ford sidevalve.

[I understand Paul may already have electronic ignition,but I post the above for anybody else who is playing with [Ford?] sidevalve engines, especially for the first time.]

As Kenham says above, for a decade or so now, the easily-available ignition components on the old-car market may look nice & shiny, may even be better made than original, but there are many hidden failings at manufacture. NOS may not be so old, or may have deteriorated due to time & poor storage?
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