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What did you do to your car today?
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MikeEdwards



Joined: 25 May 2011
Posts: 1999
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2018 11:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

47Jag wrote:
Last week I noticed an antifreeze drip at the front of my old Jag. I rebuilt the water pump late last year and thought it was from there. It was actually from the top hose which had a whole series of hairline cracks around it where what can only be described as a ‘sweat’ of fluid on it. Squeezing the hose increase the sweat. The other hoses were in a similar state so a full set was ordered and I fitted them today.

Art


Out of interest, are these the hoses that contain Kevlar? I noticed that some of mine have some cracking on the part near the clip, where they expand over the bead on the end of the various fittings, and it seems to be a common problem with the Kevlar ones. My hoses are quite old (~20 years) but then I know someone running the same make and model and is still on the original mid-70s rubber hoses. The latest ones our club supplier uses apparently have a "different formula" to the ones that were cracking, but I won't know for a while whether they're any better.
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Da Tow'd



Joined: 16 Jun 2010
Posts: 344
Location: Bella Coma British Columbia Canada

PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2018 6:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not quite today but,I put everybody else on hold while I spend some quality time on my '57 bug. It developed a bit of a miss so it was time for a complete tune up.

I adjusted the valves then pulled the plugs and did a compression test #1 #3 #4 all had 125psi but #2 has 150psi not sure why -I rebuilt the engine more than 10 years ago.
Plugs looked OK but I found that the spark plug connectors on #4 wasn't screwed on the wires like the others.

I also found the distributor wasn't advancing so I replaced it with a fully centrifugal advance from the 56 bus engine. 28pic carb got cleaned new gasket set- new fuel filter down by the transaxle.

The heat riser on the intake manifold isn't hooked up so the manifold gets real frosty. I'm still having problem to get it to idle properly, but think the cold manifold is one of the problems- I have a tuned exhaust muffler and no riser ports I might have to TIG some on.

I had the small 12v Porsche generator rebuilt-new brushes and bearings- I polarized the generator and it spins quite fast but No charge maybe the regulator is NFG . It is the newer style electronic regulator.

I'm running a 6v starter with a 12v solenoid so it spins fast

The axle boots are leaking and quite cracked cheap Chinese knock off I'd like to replace the split boots with the original style but that is a major job.

In the picture all the wires on the rear bumper are so I can remote start it.

Hank
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47Jag



Joined: 26 Jun 2008
Posts: 1480
Location: Bothwell, Scotland

PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2018 11:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mike,

The hoses were reproductions supplied by the JDC parts guy and were about 20 years old. They are solid rubber with no apparent reinforcing.

Art
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Posts: 6425
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2018 11:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Art,

The top hose is the same as used on Riley RM if you want another source.

Peter
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1939 SS Jaguar 2½ litre saloon
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MikeEdwards



Joined: 25 May 2011
Posts: 1999
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2018 11:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

47Jag wrote:
Mike,

The hoses were reproductions supplied by the JDC parts guy and were about 20 years old. They are solid rubber with no apparent reinforcing.

Art


Ah, OK. Mine are of that vintage, but have a tag around them saying something about Kevlar. Weird shapes, though, so a bit of straight pipe to replace them isn't really an option - it would do, but wouldn't look right.

I'm trying to make brackets now so that I can put a luggage-compartment cover over the back end to cover up the tool box, camera bag an so on that I'll need to take. Being a mid-70s car, these things weren't included. I was trying to make fittings that I could easily remove along with the roller blind, but have had to give up and they'll have to be screwed in place.
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Rick
Site Admin


Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 21532
Location: UK

PostPosted: Thu Jan 18, 2018 7:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gave the Moggy a quick run out yesterday, then spent 3x as long washing it down afterwards Smile

RJ
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Rick (OCC Admin)
Various 1920s-1960s - Austin, Morris, Commer, Dodge etc.
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emmerson



Joined: 30 Sep 2008
Posts: 1268
Location: South East Wales

PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2018 11:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nothing! It's too bl**dy cold! But they both need a good clean, thanks to all the salt & girt over the last few weeks.
I can feel a couple of visits to the local wash coming on.
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Penguin45



Joined: 28 Jul 2014
Posts: 335
Location: Padiham

PostPosted: Sun Jan 21, 2018 9:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fitted the refurbished cylinder head to the 'Crab.

Cylinder head by Penguin 45, on Flickr

P45.
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Rootes75



Joined: 30 Apr 2013
Posts: 3041
Location: The Somerset Levels

PostPosted: Mon Jan 22, 2018 8:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am continuing to re-trim my Commers cab, I got the original millboard headlong back I place yesterday. Not fully fitted but fastened in a couple of places to hold. Its full size and shaped and I one piece so very difficult to fit.
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1937 Hillman 80
1946 ERF C.I.5
1947 Hillman Minx
1955 Hillman Minx Mk8
1950 Commer R541
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troutrunner



Joined: 03 Dec 2012
Posts: 185
Location: South Lincolnshire

PostPosted: Mon Jan 22, 2018 9:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rootes75 wrote:
I am continuing to re-trim my Commers cab, I got the original millboard headlong back I place yesterday. Not fully fitted but fastened in a couple of places to hold. Its full size and shaped and I one piece so very difficult to fit.


Any chance of a few photos please Very Happy
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Paul
.
1937 Ford Model Y.
1939 Austin 10.
1955 Austin A30.
1958 Ford 300E van.
1961 Austin A40.
1964 Wolseley Hornet.
1965 Series2a Land Rover.
1968 Wolseley Hornet.
1994 Peugeot 405 Est. 2of.
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 3958
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Mon Jan 22, 2018 5:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know if the P38 can be included in this thread but I wasted a great deal of time today when the wife phoned to say she was in Sainsbury's car park and it wouldn't start. Anyone would think it was my fault! She left the car there and was brought home by one of the other coven members.

I sat with the Range Rover for an hour waiting for the AA man to arrive and when he detected a blown fuse I felt about two feet tall. I didn't know that the starter motor would be protected by a 40amp fuse?

The job of replacing the starter motor on a P38 is one pig of a job. The problem is accessing the top bolt. The exhaust heat shield has to come off and the bolts are invariably rusted. Then it looks like the steering column needs to come off and so it goes....

I have taken the car to a tame auto electrician I know near me and he dropped me off at home reassuring me that he should be able to fix (ie. repair) it. It is not usual (or at least it never used to be) to have the starter motor or solenoid protected by a fuse so when I discovered that a 40 amp fuse had blown alarm bells started ringing.

The P38 is a complex vehicle strewn with computers and other rubbish so I am out of my depth when it comes to fixing the electronics. Give me an old classic car any day!

Update: 23/1/18. The auto electrician phoned to say the starter motor is O.K. The fuse that blew is one shared by both the EAS and the starter. I will take another compressor over to him so he can pressurise the suspension system and find the leak that caused the compressor to burn out. I have only recently rebuilt the EAS with a rebuilt pump, valve block and dryer etc. Everything had been going fine for the past few months but now it has let me down again. Who ever thought it was a good idea to put the starter motor in the same circuit as the EAS? Seems like madness to me.

I may bypass the electronic lift set up altogether. I have four Schrader valves that I can attach the air bags to and they can be pumped up independently.

Update 25/1/18 Collected the Dodge from Coach builders, I Wilkinson & Sons of Derby. They are among the best in the business and usually specialise in Aston Martin, Rolls Royce, etc. but have worked their magic on my Dodge Brothers tourer. The finish and attention to detail is superb. I took the opportunity of asking for any surplus paint which I am sure will come in handy.

I have been having a few issues with the ignition switch recently and it played up again on the trip home. I may go all "modern" and fit a relay etc but I am no expert with electrical stuff so you guys may have to advise me on that!

The P38 saga continues. I collected the Range Rover from the auto electrician when he quoted £250 just for another pump.!! I have now replaced the burned out compressor with one I had previously rebuilt. Problem solved... or is it?. The car sank down overnight so there must be a leak somewhere. I tried to locate it by spraying soapy water onto the various unions but found nothing. The air bags are replacements so I have my doubts that one is leaking but with the special relay installed that tries to keep the car level at all times it won't show by going down in one corner so I shall be spraying soapy water on anything that might leak. The risk is that this pump will also over heat trying to keep up with the leak and burn out as well. Shocked
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Rootes75



Joined: 30 Apr 2013
Posts: 3041
Location: The Somerset Levels

PostPosted: Sun Jan 28, 2018 8:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

With the timber body now in place on my Commer we got the finished rear wings blocked up in correct position so I can now fabricate new wing stays.
_________________
1937 Ford 7w
1937 Hillman 80
1946 ERF C.I.5
1947 Hillman Minx
1955 Hillman Minx Mk8
1950 Commer R541
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emmerson



Joined: 30 Sep 2008
Posts: 1268
Location: South East Wales

PostPosted: Sun Jan 28, 2018 11:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ray White wrote:
I don't know if the P38 can be included in this thread but I wasted a great deal of time today when the wife phoned to say she was in Sainsbury's car park and it wouldn't start. Anyone would think it was my fault! She left the car there and was brought home by one of the other coven members.

I sat with the Range Rover for an hour waiting for the AA man to arrive and when he detected a blown fuse I felt about two feet tall. I didn't know that the starter motor would be protected by a 40amp fuse?

The job of replacing the starter motor on a P38 is one pig of a job. The problem is accessing the top bolt. The exhaust heat shield has to come off and the bolts are invariably rusted. Then it looks like the steering column needs to come off and so it goes....

I have taken the car to a tame auto electrician I know near me and he dropped me off at home reassuring me that he should be able to fix (ie. repair) it. It is not usual (or at least it never used to be) to have the starter motor or solenoid protected by a fuse so when I discovered that a 40 amp fuse had blown alarm bells started ringing.

The P38 is a complex vehicle strewn with computers and other rubbish so I am out of my depth when it comes to fixing the electronics. Give me an old classic car any day!

Update: 23/1/18. The auto electrician phoned to say the starter motor is O.K. The fuse that blew is one shared by both the EAS and the starter. I will take another compressor over to him so he can pressurise the suspension system and find the leak that caused the compressor to burn out. I have only recently rebuilt the EAS with a rebuilt pump, valve block and dryer etc. Everything had been going fine for the past few months but now it has let me down again. Who ever thought it was a good idea to put the starter motor in the same circuit as the EAS? Seems like madness to me.

I may bypass the electronic lift set up altogether. I have four Schrader valves that I can attach the air bags to and they can be pumped up independently.

Update 25/1/18 Collected the Dodge from Coach builders, I Wilkinson & Sons of Derby. They are among the best in the business and usually specialise in Aston Martin, Rolls Royce, etc. but have worked their magic on my Dodge Brothers tourer. The finish and attention to detail is superb. I took the opportunity of asking for any surplus paint which I am sure will come in handy.

I have been having a few issues with the ignition switch recently and it played up again on the trip home. I may go all "modern" and fit a relay etc but I am no expert with electrical stuff so you guys may have to advise me on that!

The P38 saga continues. I collected the Range Rover from the auto electrician when he quoted £250 just for another pump.!! I have now replaced the burned out compressor with one I had previously rebuilt. Problem solved... or is it?. The car sank down overnight so there must be a leak somewhere. I tried to locate it by spraying soapy water onto the various unions but found nothing. The air bags are replacements so I have my doubts that one is leaking but with the special relay installed that tries to keep the car level at all times it won't show by going down in one corner so I shall be spraying soapy water on anything that might leak. The risk is that this pump will also over heat trying to keep up with the leak and burn out as well. Shocked

Ray, I don't know much about p38s, as I've kept well away from them, and stick with my LSE, which is almost as bad! (It was the mule for the P38, as you probably know) However, one thing I do know is that on the LSE there is a hole in the engine mounting which is right in line with the top starter bolt. A couple of extensions and your socket will drop right on the bolt. May be worth a look on yours.
Also on the LSE, I had (still have) an air leak which drops the car to the stops overnight, and it takes ages to rise again if left for more than a couple of days. Muttering about being unable to find the leak, my dearly beloved said that she used to look for punctures by putting the offending part in a bucket of water...........................
Rolling Eyes
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 3958
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Mon Jan 29, 2018 12:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello Emmerson. Perhaps I should take your wife's advise. I live quite near to the river Derwent and there have been times when I have been tempted!

The air suspension should not take more than 2 minutes to inflate from empty. If it does, it sounds like you could benefit from a new compressor. Alternatively, you can get rebuild kits quite cheaply and I found it easy enough to do.

If you have not replaced the desiccate in your dryer it may well be advantageous as it tends to degrade to powder over time and eventually finds it's way into the valve block. Again, it can be rebuilt but with a great number of fiddly 'O' rings to handle it is probably better to purchase a rebuilt unit if you need it.

On the starter, the difficulty is mostly with having to remove the exhaust heat shield. Bolts tend to snap off etc.and I think the steering column also needs to come out. Fortunately, the starter is O.K. and I hope it stays that way... Wink
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badhuis



Joined: 20 Aug 2008
Posts: 1177
Location: Netherlands

PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2018 8:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Saturday I tried to bleed the 420 - there was still some air in the system. Nobody around so I fitted the Eezybleed. Well that proved to be a mistake. The pressure made it clear there was a tiny crack at the bottom of the brake fluid container where the hose is attached. Of course I did not notice this so quite a lot of fluid was split all over the inner wing etc. AARRGGG. The container was only a few years old when I replaced both containers by new ones as one was leaking. Luckily I still had the good old one. Studying both examples, new and old, and it is clear the new is made of thinner plastic and the point where the hose attach to is less sturdy. OK all cleaned up, another container installed and there we go again. Only this time there is a leak between the container and the lid. Another big mess....
I cleaned it and gave up, preferring to wait for a helper to press the pedal. These plastic containers are not made for any pressure.

Sunday it was lovely weather, sun and no cloud in sight, so my son and I went for half an hour drive in the TR4 (top down of course) to an open air kart circuit where we did two heats of karting (rent karts). A bit annoying to see he is now faster than me. At home again I realized I had forgotten my gloves so had to drive back again. A good day.
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