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What did you do to your car today?
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emmerson



Joined: 30 Sep 2008
Posts: 1261
Location: South East Wales

PostPosted: Wed Jan 08, 2020 12:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quot
e="MikeEdwards"]Have you got a bigger photo? Smile[/quote]

Yeah, I had to go next door to see it all!
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MikeEdwards



Joined: 25 May 2011
Posts: 1952
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Wed Jan 08, 2020 7:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fitted a relay board to my Firenza for the headlights. I made this ages ago and have been getting around to it, and now the lights seem a little brighter, and all four come on with main beams. And I cut a bit more of the door pillar out of the restoration project - I was hoping to get the repair patch shaped and primed, but ran out of time.
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Rootes75



Joined: 30 Apr 2013
Posts: 2955
Location: The Somerset Levels

PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2020 2:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

We have sold our Karrier Bantam so this morning was spent sorting out all the spares we have for her. Lots of stuff packed away on the shelves we had forgotten about.
_________________
1937 Ford 7w
1937 Hillman 80
1946 ERF C.I.5
1947 Hillman Minx
1955 Hillman Minx Mk8
1950 Commer R541
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MikeEdwards



Joined: 25 May 2011
Posts: 1952
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2020 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Swapped the spark plugs in the modern today, a bit time-consuming because of all the stuff on top of them. They've done about 13000 miles, which is perhaps on the high side for the standard plugs, so I'll see if it makes any difference to how it runs.

While I had the cover off, I've also patched one of the engine breather pipes. It's a short pipe, quite a convoluted shape, not available aftermarket (the photos all look very different to mine) and 40-odd at the main dealer, and it's got a little hole in it. So I cut a sheet of rubber to fit, and super-glued it in place. I also replaced the original mixture of single-use clips and a quick-release clip with some normal worm-drive clips.
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alastairq



Joined: 14 Oct 2016
Posts: 1395
Location: East Yorkshire

PostPosted: Thu Jan 23, 2020 5:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yesterday, I hosed the Mustang down, found that rather unsuccessful, so ended up pressure washing it, with auto soap to boot.

The reason?
Took it out for a drive yesterday....just to rub the rust off the brakes, and work the suspension a bit. Gave the 6-pot engine a bit of a blast as well....

Round hereabouts we don't have much in the way of motorways or dual carriageways....some resonable A & B roads [can't tell the difference uip here]....and back roads which are used to get from A to B more easily....

It was a fine sunny day, I had all the windows wound down, breeze though the lugoyles, etc...

I realised I would have to rinse some road dirt off..I accepted that..it's wintertime [9 months of the year here]....and we have more tractors than 'ooooligans.

But, on the way back...using a 'wahaayback road''...found the local farmer had suffered an issue with the slurry tanker....and had left the entire road surface coated in slurry for about half a mile!!
That's, pig slurry!
Plenty of signs up warning of skiddy surfaces, mud, etc...but, it was one of those roads that, once on it, on it you stayed [bit like a motorway after a prang?]

I popped into my local town to buy a hose nozzle from Mole Valley....whilst there, a warehouseman came out, started taking photos of the Mustang... did ask if it was ok by me when I came out....I commented on the slurry trap out yonder....he commented that, he wondered where the pong was coming from...but had been gracious enough to blame the farmers' 4x4s parked up alongside mine.
arrived home, out with hose, on with new nozzle...well, it shifted some of the blather...but I still ended p getting the pressure washer out...
An hour & a half's drive, and an hour hosing it off!
still upside is, the slurry I'd hosed off disappeared down the hill of my village's main street....all ready for this morning's crop of leisure cyclists!!

DArned greasy stuff, this pig slurry? I did wonder what the farmer fed his pigs on?
I also note, despite having elbow out the window [I don't entertain aircon...or muzak], no slurry was attached to my clothing.....says a lot for Ford's knowledge of airflows, even back in the 1960's.
_________________
Dellow Mk2, 1951 built, reg 1952.
Ford Mustang coupe, 1967, 6 cylinder auto.
Fiat 126 BIS
Cannon special [1996 registered. Built in 1950's]
----------------------------------------------
Ford Pop chassis, Ashley 1172 bodyshell, in pieces.
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 3648
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Thu Jan 23, 2020 6:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Today I spent a fair chunk of time trying to correct what passes for service in this Country.

The 3/16" armoured brake pipe kit (that set me back 95) fitted fine until I came to the bit that goes from the master cylinder to the flexible hose. Unfortunately, it was about six inches too long. I could have put a couple of 'S' bends into it but I didn't think it would look very nice.

No response from the bay seller of course so I decided to cut the pipe to size and flare a new end on it. The old brake flange kit I have is totally worn out with broken and missing bits so I ordered a new one.

As if to add insult to injury the MG club spares dept sent me the wrong flexible hoses. These stainless steel braided pipes cost 75 for a set of three; two at the front and one at the back.

The front hoses were too short and the rear one too long. My neighbour (who is also rebuilding a TC) laughed at the flexible pipe "all hanging out the back" Embarassed

The club is not at fault but will send me another set.

In another mistake - this time my fault - I realised after it was too late that I had filled the diff with EP90. The correct grade is EP 140. I have some so I will change it this evening.
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alastairq



Joined: 14 Oct 2016
Posts: 1395
Location: East Yorkshire

PostPosted: Thu Jan 23, 2020 6:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I realised after it was too late that I had filled the diff with EP90. The correct grade is EP 140. I have some so I will change it this evening.


Might be worth checking...if the EP90 & EP 140 are summer and not-summer oils?
{I don't mention the word 'winter' out loud, in case I have to hose more pigsh@@@ off?}
_________________
Dellow Mk2, 1951 built, reg 1952.
Ford Mustang coupe, 1967, 6 cylinder auto.
Fiat 126 BIS
Cannon special [1996 registered. Built in 1950's]
----------------------------------------------
Ford Pop chassis, Ashley 1172 bodyshell, in pieces.
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 3648
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Thu Jan 23, 2020 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

alastairq wrote:
Quote:
I realised after it was too late that I had filled the diff with EP90. The correct grade is EP 140. I have some so I will change it this evening.


Might be worth checking...if the EP90 & EP 140 are summer and not-summer oils?
{I don't mention the word 'winter' out loud, in case I have to hose more pigsh@@@ off?}


Unfortunately, no. I simply picked up EP 80/90 because it is the usual grade for hypoid back axles. The TC is spiral bevel and should have EP 140.
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MikeEdwards



Joined: 25 May 2011
Posts: 1952
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Thu Jan 23, 2020 7:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Replaced the rear third of the bottom of the door on my Audi coupe project. It's quite rusty, to the extent that it's pushed the bottom of the door out far enough to scrape on the door step when opening and closing the door. I'm doing it in sections so the door retains shape when I cut bits out. I cut the rear third out last week, made the repair section, but I'd run out of weld-through primer, and that didn't arrive until yesterday. I've now started removing the front third, and will do the centre last.
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 3648
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Fri Jan 24, 2020 11:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a look at the rocker assembly and concluded that although the condition was not too bad, some parts would need to be replaced.

The rocker arms themselves were only slightly worn and just need refacing on the fine grinding wheel so I will just replace the adjusting screws and push rods as there are flats on the ball seatings.

A new rocker shaft has also been ordered as it would seem to have worn more than the bronze bushes.

Not a cheap day.
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Rick
Site Admin


Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 21314
Location: North-west UK

PostPosted: Fri Jan 24, 2020 11:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ray White wrote:
I had a look at the rocker assembly and concluded that although the condition was not too bad, some parts would need to be replaced.

The rocker arms themselves were only slightly worn and just need refacing on the fine grinding wheel so I will just replace the adjusting screws and push rods as there are flats on the ball seatings.

A new rocker shaft has also been ordered as it would seem to have worn more than the bronze bushes.

Not a cheap day.


This is definitely a comprehensive overhaul!

RJ
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Rick (OCC Admin)
Various 1920s-1960s - Austin, Morris, Commer, Dodge etc.
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 3648
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Sat Jan 25, 2020 12:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="Rick"]
Ray White wrote:
I had a look at the rocker assembly and concluded that although the condition was not too bad, some parts would need to be replaced.......


This is definitely a comprehensive overhaul!

RJ


Yes Rick. I'm really enjoying the build. The MG is like a giant Meccano set. Just the way cars ought to be put together - complete with designs that date back to the early days.

Did you know MG chassis cross tubes are brazed like a bicycle frame?

I try not to worry about the cost because if the car turns out to be as I hope and expect then I shall not be parting with it until I am too much of an old crock to drive.
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alastairq



Joined: 14 Oct 2016
Posts: 1395
Location: East Yorkshire

PostPosted: Sat Jan 25, 2020 10:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Did you know MG chassis cross tubes are brazed like a bicycle frame?


The chassis of my Cannon [trials machine] is also bronze welded [by Cannon himself]
Indeed many racing or sporting chassis were bronze welded or brazed.....The braze was, I believe, considered to be more pliable [resistant to cracking] than a weld...plus, the heat stresses welding introduced to chassis members was reduced, since brazing or bronze welding required less heat.

Of course, show brazing to the DVSA or MoT inspector, and they go white at the gills.....seems there is no convincing some folk of the comparable strengths?

Ford Pop chassis were riveted....for reasons of flexibility....no good having members designed to flex, if the joints are hard & rigid?
_________________
Dellow Mk2, 1951 built, reg 1952.
Ford Mustang coupe, 1967, 6 cylinder auto.
Fiat 126 BIS
Cannon special [1996 registered. Built in 1950's]
----------------------------------------------
Ford Pop chassis, Ashley 1172 bodyshell, in pieces.
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Rootes75



Joined: 30 Apr 2013
Posts: 2955
Location: The Somerset Levels

PostPosted: Sat Jan 25, 2020 1:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just had our Karrier Bantam picked up on a lowloaded to head off to her new home.
Nice to free up the space in our shed, I will be moving our Hillman 80 into the space from her current housing in our garage.
_________________
1937 Ford 7w
1937 Hillman 80
1946 ERF C.I.5
1947 Hillman Minx
1955 Hillman Minx Mk8
1950 Commer R541
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 3648
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Sat Jan 25, 2020 2:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have been adding spring washers under the BSF half nuts that hold on the brake drums. I thought it odd that there were none at all but the Octagon car club spares dept have confirmed that they are needed and shipped me 24 of same.

One problem I have noticed is how quickly the cast iron rusts. Is there a way of preserving the "new" look on these hybrid "alfin" type drums?

I have considered paint. I have also thought about clear lacquer. Even a coating of machine oil but I have no idea which is the best. The aluminium fins will also tarnish but they are more easily buffed up.

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