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[split] Old Range Rovers and rusty Discos
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MVPeters



Joined: 28 Aug 2008
Posts: 822
Location: Northern MA, USA

PostPosted: Sat Dec 28, 2019 7:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

emmerson wrote:
The bl**dy Disco has now developed the dreaded leaky sunroofs! Anyone know of a simple cure without taking the headlining out, pls?


If the design is anything like the BMW MINI, there are drain tubes attached to the sun-roof 'gutters'.
They fall off (& can be re-attached with a small zip-tie).
Water then drains, inside the car, directly onto the Body Control Module = $$$$.
Brilliant design.
Sells lots of BCMs.
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2002 MINI Cooper 'S'
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6286
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Sat Dec 28, 2019 7:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MVPeters wrote:
emmerson wrote:
The bl**dy Disco has now developed the dreaded leaky sunroofs! Anyone know of a simple cure without taking the headlining out, pls?


If the design is anything like the BMW MINI, there are drain tubes attached to the sun-roof 'gutters'.
They fall off (& can be re-attached with a small zip-tie).
Water then drains, inside the car, directly onto the Body Control Module = $$$$.
Brilliant design.
Sells lots of BCMs.


Sometimes it is the owner who is to blame. In my case I left the sun roof open and it rained. The control panel for windows, mirrors and sun roof are situated in the middle of the car FACING UP and lap up all the rainwater.

CLEVER!!! (neither me or the design!)
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emmerson



Joined: 30 Sep 2008
Posts: 1268
Location: South East Wales

PostPosted: Sun Dec 29, 2019 11:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ray White wrote:
emmerson wrote:
The bl**dy Disco has now developed the dreaded leaky sunroofs! Anyone know of a simple cure without taking the headlining out, pls?


Try cleaning out the drainage channels. I don't know if it will help but you might just find where it is leaking.

The P38 has developed a sagging headlining. There is a firm who do a replacement while you wait but it doesn't come cheap. Crying or Very sad


Nationwide Trim, Ray, about £350, I think. That's why I don't want to take mine out.
Ref the drainage channels, apparently there is a little plastic spout which breaks off. They aren't quite made of unobtainium, but are rare, and cost £45 per pair, but need the headlining out to fit.
I've found some super duper waterproof tape in my shed, in black, four inches wide which I think might be a cheap easy fix, as we don't use the sunroofs anyway. And the car is so high I won't be able to see it, either!
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petelang



Joined: 21 May 2009
Posts: 442
Location: Nottingham

PostPosted: Sun Dec 29, 2019 6:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's typical: cheap bit of plastic fails, causes unbelievable expensive repairs! It's so disappointing that quality vehicles suffer so much from this type of malady.
It's like the cheap nasty plastic door latch / lock components used in Jaguars that break leading to a costly and time consuming repair, where's my old Daimler have all metal parts 50 years old, still working fine.
But then they wouldn't be selling lots of spare parts I suppose and that's probably the driving influence.
Peter
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6286
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Sun Dec 29, 2019 9:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The P38 is littered with cheap plastic clips etc. that are fine when new but harden with age.

Result: they break. Crying or Very sad
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MVPeters



Joined: 28 Aug 2008
Posts: 822
Location: Northern MA, USA

PostPosted: Sun Dec 29, 2019 11:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ray

This might be a worthwhile investment:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124PCS-FOR-BMW-MINI-COOPER-R50-R52-R53-WHEEL-ARCH-TRIM-CLIPS-SIDE-DOOR-CLIPS/303179684851?hash=item4696eadbf3%3Ag%3AfyIAAOSwtl5c-NdD&fbclid=IwAR04HXfVw_HR93nYx9-C9u92oRGJdxjiHJo8zc3X9QvO53vIMF8WaIZ2Bzo
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2002 MINI Cooper 'S'
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6286
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Sun Dec 29, 2019 11:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's a good source. Thanks Mike.

I have a little collection of clips accumulated over time but you know how it is...when you want something it's either the wrong size; wrong colour; incomplete etc.

I have many small, powerful magnets. I wonder if they will hold up my roof lining ... or is there masses of insulating material behind it??
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MVPeters



Joined: 28 Aug 2008
Posts: 822
Location: Northern MA, USA

PostPosted: Mon Dec 30, 2019 8:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ray White wrote:
...... t's either the wrong size; wrong colour; incomplete etc

That's the collection I have!

Typically, soft headliners are a layer of foam, glued to the roof & a layer of fabric glued to that.
The sun on the roof degrades the foam to dust - you can get it off with a stiff brush.
But I had some success with an old Buick with a saggy headliner. I used an aerosol photo adhesive with a long thin nozzle. Pin-holes about 6" apart got it sort of glued back a section at a time. Then I went back & filled-in between.
It ended up a bit 'quilted', but no more sagging.
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emmerson



Joined: 30 Sep 2008
Posts: 1268
Location: South East Wales

PostPosted: Mon Dec 30, 2019 7:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did one on my first RR with a staple gun!
Herself said the quilted look was like a tart's boudoir. I asked how she knew what a tart's boudoir looked like.

That's when the fight started.
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emmerson



Joined: 30 Sep 2008
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Location: South East Wales

PostPosted: Mon Mar 09, 2020 6:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just to keep this thread alive, I'd like to report that my boring,but rather nice 1998 Discovery has just driven through its MOT, straight off the road, with no advisories.
And the tester asked for first refusal if ever I sell it.
I can't claim any credit for it; I've had it a year now, and aside from the minor LPG troubles, I've done nowt to it.
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6286
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Tue Mar 10, 2020 9:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It has been three months now and I still haven't fixed the silly "bonnet open" message and accompanying "bleep bleep bloody bleep". Partly the weather and partly my MG rebuild project.


Now, there is a problem with the central locking. The doors lock with the key but the fob doesn't. I have replaced the battery but no joy.

The key fob has to be the P38's worst Achilles heel. There is so much dependent on it that if it really goes bad you can't even start the car. There is so much faffing around with entering codes via the door key etc. that I get fed up and walk away. I know I don't have the right attitude towards technology but there it is.
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emmerson



Joined: 30 Sep 2008
Posts: 1268
Location: South East Wales

PostPosted: Tue Mar 10, 2020 11:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ray White wrote:
It has been three months now and I still haven't fixed the silly "bonnet open" message and accompanying "bleep bleep bloody bleep". Partly the weather and partly my MG rebuild project.


Now, there is a problem with the central locking. The doors lock with the key but the fob doesn't. I have replaced the battery but no joy.

The key fob has to be the P38's worst Achilles heel. There is so much dependent on it that if it really goes bad you can't even start the car. There is so much faffing around with entering codes via the door key etc. that I get fed up and walk away. I know I don't have the right attitude towards technology but there it is.


Ray, that is precisely why I've never had a P38. Imo, when they brought out the model, the technology had not been fully proven, and it was left to the dealers to sort all the problems, without the required software, which appeared to be developed after the event.
A lovely car, but too frightening for me! Good luck with sorting it.
Just a thought, on my first Classic RR, a 1987 model, when the central locking went haywire, I simply disconnected all the locks and locked it manually, like we used to do. Will that work on yours, or is it to complex for that?
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6286
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Tue Mar 10, 2020 12:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

emmerson wrote:
Ray White wrote:
It has been three months now and I still haven't fixed the silly "bonnet open" message and accompanying "bleep bleep bloody bleep". Partly the weather and partly my MG rebuild project.


Now, there is a problem with the central locking. The doors lock with the key but the fob doesn't. I have replaced the battery but no joy.

The key fob has to be the P38's worst Achilles heel. There is so much dependent on it that if it really goes bad you can't even start the car. There is so much faffing around with entering codes via the door key etc. that I get fed up and walk away. I know I don't have the right attitude towards technology but there it is.


Ray, that is precisely why I've never had a P38. Imo, when they brought out the model, the technology had not been fully proven, and it was left to the dealers to sort all the problems, without the required software, which appeared to be developed after the event.
A lovely car, but too frightening for me! Good luck with sorting it.
Just a thought, on my first Classic RR, a 1987 model, when the central locking went haywire, I simply disconnected all the locks and locked it manually, like we used to do. Will that work on yours, or is it to complex for that?


The problem is not just with the technology. It is me. The various Land Rover forums have all the answers so you either have a specialist fix the problem or you find a way of doing it yourself.

I am woefully short of patience when it comes to patching up anything modern. I just want it to work like a Lexus but in the real world things just don't.

At the moment, I can lock the car manually so that is why I haven't bothered with it. What happens, though, is that little things add up over time and if you don't keep on top of them the car deteriorates to a mess.
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MVPeters



Joined: 28 Aug 2008
Posts: 822
Location: Northern MA, USA

PostPosted: Tue Mar 10, 2020 12:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ray
For all the BMW-based cars there is a quick 'pairing' process to be done after a key-fob battery change. It's in the handbook or one of the LR forums. I think you need to do both keys at the same time if you have 2 fobs. It only takes a couple of minutes.
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6286
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Tue Mar 10, 2020 12:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MVPeters wrote:
Ray
For all the BMW-based cars there is a quick 'pairing' process to be done after a key-fob battery change. It's in the handbook or one of the LR forums. I think you need to do both keys at the same time if you have 2 fobs. It only takes a couple of minutes.


Thanks. I have done it a few times over the years...or should I say my wife has.

IT seems it is a problem with the central locking. Probably a connector somewhere.
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