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[split] Old Range Rovers and rusty Discos
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emmerson



Joined: 30 Sep 2008
Posts: 1261
Location: South East Wales

PostPosted: Tue Mar 10, 2020 6:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It will be a little bit of plastic which has gone brittle over the years, will cost 49p and will require 16 hours at 85 per hour to fix!
It is a Range Rover, after all Very Happy
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 3656
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Tue Mar 10, 2020 7:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

emmerson wrote:
It will be a little bit of plastic which has gone brittle over the years, will cost 49p and will require 16 hours at 85 per hour to fix!
It is a Range Rover, after all Very Happy


Funny you should say that. THE worst job on a Range Rover - by a long shot - is replacing the "O" rings on the heater matrix pipes. They leak after a while and require the entire dash assembly be removed to get to them.

The "O" rings are but a few pence but the amount of labour (not to mention things breaking just because they can) is at least a day's work for a trained mechanic. Probably the best part of a week doing it yourself for a first time.

I haven't needed to do this yet but have read many tales of woe from those who have. I have also read from someone who can do the job quickly but it involves sacrificing a fair bit of interior plastic....
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 3656
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2020 12:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is nothing wrong with the central locking. There was just not enough left in the battery to operate them.

Do cars still have a ballast resistor?
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emmerson



Joined: 30 Sep 2008
Posts: 1261
Location: South East Wales

PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2020 6:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ray White wrote:
There is nothing wrong with the central locking. There was just not enough left in the battery to operate them.

Do cars still have a ballast resistor?


Huge sigh of relief from your wallet?
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 3656
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2020 8:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, it was a relief but as I can't drive anywhere it was somewhat pyrrhyc.

I had a shock last night. For some reason the Range Rover interior has become covered in mould. It's quite disgusting and I am not sure what the best thing is to treat it with.
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Peter_L



Joined: 10 Apr 2008
Posts: 2444
Location: New Brunswick. Canada.

PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2020 9:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ray White wrote:
Yes, it was a relief but as I can't drive anywhere it was somewhat pyrrhyc.

I had a shock last night. For some reason the Range Rover interior has become covered in mould. It's quite disgusting and I am not sure what the best thing is to treat it with.


Hi Ray. Until I moved to Canada mould was not something I found a major problem, but here, mould in houses has spawned (pun) 100's of YT and FB sites which refer to the issue.

In the garage, in the winter, the vehicles sit with all doors open. There is also a 36" fan that blows across the floor and helps dry out the underside. For cleansing, such as washing machines, dishwashers and bathrooms that don't get daily use, then White Vinegar.... Don't even think about bleach, I know it may suddenly remove black mould, but it has some weird relationship with the mould molecules and they will hold hands and come back... big time.

White vinegar on a cloth will clean plastic and glass. If your vehicle is in a garage. leave its door open and if possible put a fan in there. Mould does not like moving air. Hope this helps.
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emmerson



Joined: 30 Sep 2008
Posts: 1261
Location: South East Wales

PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2020 10:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ray, have you checked the foam underlay under the front carpets? If this gets damp, and it surely will, it holds water forever. I lifted the carpet on the flat floor and removed the whole soggy mess, then put a dehumidifier in for a couple of weeks.
Before putting the carpets back down I slathered the floor with thick Waxoyl.
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 3656
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2020 10:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

emmerson wrote:
Ray, have you checked the foam underlay under the front carpets? If this gets damp, and it surely will, it holds water forever. I lifted the carpet on the flat floor and removed the whole soggy mess, then put a dehumidifier in for a couple of weeks.
Before putting the carpets back down I slathered the floor with thick Waxoyl.


Yes. It is dry. If it gets damp it is sometimes from the heater matrix which as I mentioned earlier is a nightmare job. If damp gets into the BECM it's also bad news.
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52classic



Joined: 02 Oct 2008
Posts: 487
Location: Cardiff.

PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2020 7:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can't believe it is almost 18 months since I introduced my P38 to you guys.
A few weeks ago I'd have said 'No news is good news.' We just ate the miles and collected MOTs, no problems at all (by Land Rover standards, that is.)

Then, M4, outing to see our new, and first, Granddaughter. - 'Beep beep.' EAS FAULT. Restricted to 35MPH. No fun at all, driving on the bump stops is it?

So the fault finding began, first stop was the Gurus on LandyZone. Great, at least I had a fault tracing strategy. Son bought a diagnostic gadget on 'bay. Checked the pump, apparently the wisdom is that if, putting a finger over the blue pipe, you can actually stop the air flow, then the pump is FUBAR. Times must be hard because I made an offer on 'bay for an OE new one for not much more than a repair kit.

Easy install, EAS now performing well, a reminder of how good the system is when blessed with new kit!
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 3656
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2020 7:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Often the EAS fails because the dryer silicate has not been replaced. It gets degraded to a powder and then finds it's way into the valve block.

Incidentally, if you do renew the granules make a note of how much is in the canister. Too much and it can build up enough pressure to blow the top off.!
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52classic



Joined: 02 Oct 2008
Posts: 487
Location: Cardiff.

PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2020 9:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's a new one on me Ray. Makes sense though.
Where is the canister? Is that the little cylinder acting as an air filter?

One quirk of this job was that after fitting the new pump all was well except that the car would make a theatrical 'curtsey' when the engine was started.
When I first got the car, the rear bags were leaking so I replaced the self levelling relay with a simpler one which de-activated self level with ign OFF.
Temporary measure but I had forgotten.

Replacing the OE one fixed the problem although it was a neat party trick while it lasted.
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 3656
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2020 10:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The canister is towards the front of the engine bay. It has a screw on top. When replacing my valve block and pump (you could rebuild them if you have the patience; I have done it but I just can't be bothered these days.) I forgot how much was in the canister so I just emptied the packet into it.

The granules are supplied for many different cars. Some require more than others. In my case I was still in my drive when I heard a bang. The lid had blown off and the upward force had made a small dent in the underside of the bonnet! The canister itself had broken away from it's plastic bracket and spewed it's contents all over the engine bay. What a mess!!

I have also replaced the fancy relay because it was causing a regular flat battery.
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52classic



Joined: 02 Oct 2008
Posts: 487
Location: Cardiff.

PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2020 6:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The canister idea is interesting, Ray. I've seen it loads of times but never aware of what it did! good opportunity for some research when we get some better days 'isolating.'

The recommendation to change the OE relay came from an American RR site.
As you say, the self levelling action will quickly kill the battery. I changed it a couple of years ago when the rear bags were suspect but didn't see the point of changing back once I replaced the bags.

This time, the new pump caused this 'curtsey' at every start up. Going back to the OE relay sorted it out. So far, even parked up for several days as we are,
there is no air loss. So good news, I can move on to the next bit of tinkering!
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 3656
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2020 9:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is a little filter at the end of the valve block which often gets overlooked. Mine was clogged with degraded desicant.
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