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MG TC
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Do you like or dislike the new dashboard ?
Yes I do like the new dashboard
100%
 100%  [ 7 ]
No I do not like the new dashboard
0%
 0%  [ 0 ]
Total Votes : 7

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Keith D



Joined: 16 Oct 2008
Posts: 1127
Location: Upper Swan, Western Australia

PostPosted: Sun Jun 09, 2019 2:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ray,

I have a delightful picture in my head of one Ray White happily crawling over, under and in that glorious MG, on a fabulous voyage of discovery.

In many ways I am sure that you are enjoying finding the imperfections, knowing that you will fix the car properly, and knowing that it is your efforts that will take it back to perfection.

Enjoy!!!

Keith
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alastairq



Joined: 14 Oct 2016
Posts: 1950
Location: East Yorkshire

PostPosted: Sun Jun 09, 2019 8:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.google.com/maps/place/Woollamia+NSW+2540,+Australia/@-34.9863467,150.3639498,11.25z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x6b14886e336b6191:0x40609b49043d980!8m2!3d-35.0139225!4d150.6343154

As an aside, I thought I'd put in a link to the MG's Australian past.....
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6284
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2019 2:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Things have moved on apace. I have been in touch with the previous owner in Woollamia NSW - a certain Allan Gallard - and he is getting in touch with Les Johnson who had the TC before him. The Johnson's had owned TC 10030 for fifty years so there is a possibility of photos especially as Les apparently inherited the car from his brother, Don...who had raced it!!!!

I now have some more photos of the car in it's dismantled state and it really was not for the faint hearted! The car was originally blue and there is still the original finish on the toe board but I have no plans to change it from the present 'radiant' red.

There is also the last registration sticker in the windscreen which shows the original number as BGZ773. How good is that!!!

I have yet to establish who the first owner was. I now know from records it was not originally in NSW or Victoria so the search goes on.
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6284
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2019 11:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have spent whatever time I can spare on dismantling the TC. With the seats, floor and trim removed it is obvious that the "new wood" the previous owner had talked about is worse than useless so I have commissioned Andrew Denton, an MG body expert, to build me a new Ash frame. He is a time served old school pattern maker and really knows his stuff. His price was also thankfully reasonable. To save time the frame will be delivered fully panelled in primer...

One of the first things that has to be done is to remove the slab tank. When I undid the drain plug, nothing came out. After digging about with a piece of thick wire, the petrol did eventually come out. What a stink!!! The petrol was so stale it came out brown with the consistency of sump oil!
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6284
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2019 12:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now the body has been removed I can get on with restoring the chassis. I am a bit concerned that the n/s chassis rail seems to be slightly bent downwards at the back. Whether this will affect the car's handling/steering I don't know but I envisage a slight problem when it comes to fitting the new body.



Some bright spark has welded the handbrake cross tube (two cables) in the wrong position. I am not quite sure how best to correct it?

gas finder find your nearest gas stations
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Posts: 7113
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2019 1:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In your photo Ray it looks like the section beyond the rear spring / cross member is slightly bent inwards rather than downwards.

Peter
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badhuis



Joined: 20 Aug 2008
Posts: 1390
Location: Netherlands

PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2019 2:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ray White wrote:
Some bright spark has welded the handbrake cross tube (two cables) in the wrong position. I am not quite sure how best to correct it?


Cut loose and weld to the correct position. Or is that too simple.
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6284
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2019 2:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

peter scott wrote:
In your photo Ray it looks like the section beyond the rear spring / cross member is slightly bent inwards rather than downwards.

Peter


No, fortunately it is just the photo. Both rails seem straight enough.




Also, there seems to be a slight natural dip under the axle so it is probably correct.

There is some damage to the o/s outrigger and the n/s one seems to have been repaired at some time.
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6284
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2019 3:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

badhuis wrote:
Ray White wrote:
Some bright spark has welded the handbrake cross tube (two cables) in the wrong position. I am not quite sure how best to correct it?


Cut loose and weld to the correct position. Or is that too simple.




I think it depends on how far the weld has penetrated. If it has gone into the outer collar too far I will have to remove the rivets from the
chassis both sides and extract the cross tube. I may have to do this anyway as I don't like the amount of play in the bearings. As you can see when the tube rotates it pulls on the cable which has already gone way past it's optimum leverage point and is at the very end of it's adjustment.

Then again, it's only a hand brake so as long as it works I am probably being too precious.
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6284
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Wed Jul 10, 2019 3:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have checked the bottom end of the engine and found a complete absence of split pins. The p.o. must have thought bruising the threads a cheaper option. Rolling Eyes

The crank has supposedly been reground but
on removing the big end caps I have discovered not so much worn journals as poorly ground ones.

Plastigauge readings reveal between 0.002" and 0.0025" which for any pressure fed engine is excessive. Or at least I think it is.

What would you guys say?
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6284
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Fri Jul 12, 2019 8:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The engine and gearbox came out without drama and I shall be separating them shortly.

The crank is to be sent off for a regrind. Fortunately, the + 0.020" bores are perfectly serviceable so I shan't do any more than replace the piston rings.
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6284
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Sun Jul 14, 2019 12:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Things are sometimes not what you think. Looking at the handbrake cross tube it dawned on me that the adjuster didn't look right. It wasn't. Helpful Henry had cobbled it together with an off cut of copper tubing and a nut with an incorrect thread forced onto the end. With a bit of thought he could have done something similar to my solution. A shorter spacer and a wing nut will now allow me to correctly adjust the cables.

The handle is a bit wobbly and could do with new bushes but that's not a priority just now.

Before:


After:

citibank bank locations near me
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6284
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Sun Jul 14, 2019 8:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="Ray White"]

The addition of a spring to the "fly off" handbrake will help.

where can i find e85 gas near me
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6284
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Sun Oct 13, 2019 1:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The engine has returned from MG guru Peter Edney. The block has been chemically cleaned so I hope it has been well rinsed. The rebore has enlarged to + 0.060" and fitted with quality pistons. One cylinder had been fitted with a liner so this had to be replaced. I suspect this had something to do with the big jump in bore size.

The reground crankshaft has been machined to take special oil seals - so hopefully no more leaks!

The work entailed facing both head and block and fitting new core plugs. Both the crank and rods were crack tested and balanced before being fitted to the new shell bearings. The flywheel has been slightly balanced and the assembly balanced again.

The cylinder head has had a 'unleaded' conversion with new TF valves, springs and bronze guides. It had already been "ported" so should require no further work. I have bought an upgraded water pump which has 6 bronze impellers. I still need to get a new thermostat.

h

Note the painted chassis!
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6284
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Thu Dec 19, 2019 3:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bit of a grump, really, although I had some idea of what I was letting myself in for. We probably all find fault with the things previous owners have done but in this case it was deliberate deception. The new red paint had been done just this year and as is obvious from the photos had been applied directly over rust.

I am awaiting a new body tub which is being built by Andrew Denton of MG Ash Frames in Yorkshire. The new body will need painting (which I am prepared for) but the scuttle, wings, petrol tank and valance will probably be found to be just as bad as this bulkhead.

Ah well. Sad

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