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Do you like or dislike the new dashboard ? |
Yes I do like the new dashboard |
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100% |
[ 7 ] |
No I do not like the new dashboard |
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0% |
[ 0 ] |
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Total Votes : 7 |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6313 Location: Derby
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Posted: Mon Mar 30, 2020 12:31 am Post subject: |
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Not much progress this weekend.
The four cylinder head nuts that I removed and used for the engine hoist load leveller needed torquing down again but I was unable to get a socket on two of them without removing the "hairclip" from the end of the rocker shaft. Then I realised that it was impossible to refit the clip against the spring pressure so the assembly had to be removed. Eventually I had the 4 head nuts torqued down and the rocker assembly replaced as before...
I then Replaced the sump plug with a new 'magnetic' version. The new copper crush washer supplied was a shade too small so I had to resort to one of my plain copper washers and some Wellseal - but it should be leak free.
I connected the new prop shaft with correct UNF bolts and nylocks that I had in store. The later style prop flange can sometimes foul the pinion but fortunately only one leg of the split pin needed removing. The flanges only just fitted together.! The prop shaft tunnel needs to be cut about to fit the new gearbox so that is a job I can tackle in readiness for the body tub and floor boards...when they arrive!
I then fitted the new speedo cable. It is held in place by a cir clip and is supposed to be a tricky job. I found it went together with no problems.
I also connected up the clutch. The pedal operates a chain (yes, a chain!) which had failed so I adapted it to fit. I will probably need to replace the assembly with a new one to be reliable but for now it works and I can get all five gears plus reverse.
I am not quite sure where to go from here. The bulkhead needs more work to get it ready for paint. Until that is fitted I can't mount the steering column. The radiator needs looking at before I can fit that and (understandably) the new body has been delayed.
I could fit the exhaust system but I need to decide if the original starter motor is to be used as it will need to be fitted before the exhaust. It is impossible to fit the starter without first removing the exhaust manifold and as the supercharger shares the same four stud fixings - and is a pig of a job - I have to fit the starter first.
The dilemma is that the starter motor needs a professional overhaul and that assumes I want to stay with the fitting issues. On the other hand a new £200 high torque starter motor is immediately available. It is also smaller, lighter and more reliable and can be fitted easily. I am tempted to buy one. |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6313 Location: Derby
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Posted: Mon Mar 30, 2020 7:50 pm Post subject: |
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Having fitted 4 new manifold studs I offered up the extractor manifold and supercharger...only to find that there is no way of clamping them to the head. The original clamps only work with the original cast iron exhaust manifold.
I also discovered that I can't fit the starter motor with the new manifold; it fouls the solenoid.
I also found that manifold fouls the steering drop arm.
In all a crap day in the garage.
Last edited by Ray White on Sat Apr 25, 2020 7:42 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Rick Site Admin
Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 22446 Location: UK
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peter scott
Joined: 18 Dec 2007 Posts: 7118 Location: Edinburgh
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Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2020 10:11 am Post subject: |
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Surely others who have used this exhaust system must have experienced the same problems as you have. I would contact the supplier and ask for advice.
Peter _________________ http://www.nostalgiatech.co.uk
1939 SS Jaguar 2 1/2 litre saloon |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6313 Location: Derby
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Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2020 10:14 am Post subject: |
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peter scott wrote: | Surely others who have used this exhaust system must have experienced the same problems as you have. I would contact the supplier and ask for advice.
Peter |
Hi Peter. I tried contacting Peter Edney yesterday and his recorded message said basically go away. He is not taking phone calls and blames the virus.
I will get round these problems somehow.
Last edited by Ray White on Tue Mar 31, 2020 10:43 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6313 Location: Derby
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Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2020 10:42 am Post subject: |
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Rick wrote: | Oh eck, some days you just have to shut the garage door and walk away for a bit. Hope you get it all sorted, having owned a couple of modified cars in the past I know what this feels like.
RJ |
That's good advice...As I can't fit the original starter motor I have ordered a new high torque motor which is sold as a direct replacement. It is smaller so should be fine.
I took another look this morning and found that the supercharger won't fit the manifold either!!!!
I have given this some consideration and think that if I slightly elongate the mounting bracket holes the steering column could move forward just enough (1/16") to give a working clearance for the drop arm. It can't go any further because to the engine mounting bracket.
The way I plan to mount the blower and exhaust manifolds is to remove some material from above the holes in the aluminium inlet manifold. This should allow me to fit a clamp made from steel strip. With four holes to accept the studs and nuts and some threaded bolt holes for the exhaust manifold I should be able to clamp everything together. I don't expect it to be plain sailing though.
As I mentioned the supercharger inlet manifold won't quite fit flush with the exhaust manifold but I should be able to relieve the stainless exhaust manifold sufficiently to allow it to go down onto the gasket.
The new starter, incidentally, will require a remote solenoid switch. I will need to mount it somewhere convenient and shorten the starter cable. As you know there are sometimes advantages with being able to shunt the engine over - so it should be win, win.! |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6313 Location: Derby
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Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2020 9:50 pm Post subject: |
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This morning I had a chat with Steve Baker who supplied the supercharger. He confirmed that if I want to use that particular style of exhaust extractor manifold, there will need be some fettling. In order for the flanges to sit anything like level I will need to remove material.
Offering up the supercharger and the manifold on the bench the problem - and the solution - became apparent. It also shows up some less than perfect machining!
To start with I will remove the raised outer edges of the manifold, this will allow the flanges to sit more level. If the difference is not too much I can pack it with extra gasket material. |
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ukdave2002
Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4104 Location: South Cheshire
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6313 Location: Derby
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Posted: Fri Apr 03, 2020 4:12 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for that, Dave. I have been trying to get the stainless exhaust manifold to sit level with the inlet manifold. It is taking a lot of work with the 4" angle grinder; applying paint to the area to find the high spots. Not really something you expect to be doing to a £600 manifold!! |
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MVPeters
Joined: 28 Aug 2008 Posts: 822 Location: Northern MA, USA
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Posted: Fri Apr 03, 2020 7:52 pm Post subject: |
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Ray White wrote: | Thanks for that, Dave. I have been trying to get the stainless exhaust manifold to sit level with the inlet manifold. It is taking a lot of work with the 4" angle grinder; applying paint to the area to find the high spots. Not really something you expect to be doing to a £600 manifold!! |
That looks like more than 'some fettling'!
Could a machine shop put it on a surface planer? Maybe both manifolds together? _________________ Mike - MVPeters at comcast.net
2002 MINI Cooper 'S' |
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Rick Site Admin
Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 22446 Location: UK
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Posted: Fri Apr 03, 2020 10:51 pm Post subject: |
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MVPeters wrote: | Ray White wrote: | Thanks for that, Dave. I have been trying to get the stainless exhaust manifold to sit level with the inlet manifold. It is taking a lot of work with the 4" angle grinder; applying paint to the area to find the high spots. Not really something you expect to be doing to a £600 manifold!! |
That looks like more than 'some fettling'!
Could a machine shop put it on a surface planer? Maybe both manifolds together? |
I wondered that too, I had little Dodge's exhaust manifold done as where it joins the block had burnt away slightly in places causing it to blow.
RJ _________________ Rick - Admin
Home:https://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk
Videos:https://www.youtube.com/user/oldclassiccarRJ/videos
OCC & classic car merchandise (Austin, Ford ++):
https://www.redbubble.com/people/OldClassicCar/shop |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6313 Location: Derby
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Posted: Sat Apr 04, 2020 8:02 pm Post subject: |
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That's more like it.
Shame the bolt holes don't line up though! |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6313 Location: Derby
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Posted: Wed Apr 08, 2020 2:57 pm Post subject: |
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Now the manifolds are bolted to the engine. I made a clamp from a length of 1" x 0.25" steel strip and shaped it so that the exhaust pipes can be used as additional clamping force.
This shows how the clamping bar sits into recesses on the supercharger. I am tempted to fit steel tubes over the 1/4" studs as belt and braces.
I may also add a couple of bolts to bear on the exposed ends of the exhaust manifold flange.
Last edited by Ray White on Wed Apr 08, 2020 9:09 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Bitumen Boy
Joined: 26 Jan 2012 Posts: 1735 Location: Above the snow line in old Monmouthshire
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Posted: Wed Apr 08, 2020 3:13 pm Post subject: |
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IMO a couple of fixings on the ends would be a good plan, if you have an idea of where to fit them. |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6313 Location: Derby
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Posted: Wed Apr 08, 2020 9:05 pm Post subject: |
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Bitumen Boy wrote: | IMO a couple of fixings on the ends would be a good plan, if you have an idea of where to fit them. |
Hi. Yes, there are a number of options.
I could thread a set screw through the bar so it's end bears on the manifold flange. I could fit tubes to improve the look of it.?
Another thought...If I simply made a hole in the clamping bar, I could use the head of a bolt against the manifold and a couple of nuts either side of the bar.?
Tightening would be by holding the head of the bolt with one spanner while adjusting the nuts with another. |
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