Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[Ray White]

I have been trying to establish the authenticity of my engine. Some research has been necessary.

As previously stated; the brass maker's plate (on the battery box) clearly states the engine number as XPAG 10685 and this matches the octagonal brass plate which is rivetted to the engine casting. This can be seen in the photos. Unfortunately, there have been instances of these plates being forged and passed off as originals.

My concern, however, has been that the casting numbers seem not to be even close. The number on the block for example is 24,146 and this is close to the stamping on the 'MG' dip stick which reads XPAG engine number 24,164. (I had thought that perhaps these last two digits should be transposed) and the number on the head reads 22, 952.

I have found in the past that casting numbers (as opposed to stampings) are not always useful... and the dip stick could have come from anywhere.!

Fortunately, another owner searching for evidence turned up something really interesting. These engine blocks were cast at the Wellingborough Ironworks along with numerous components for Nuffield Tractors. Courtesy of Nuffield and Leyland Tractor Club and their historian, John, we now have a 1953 Austin/Morris standard for casting the date coding on XPAG/XPEG blocks and heads.

It explains that the casting next to the dip stick depicts firstly, the day of the month; followed by an alphabetical identification of the month; followed by the year - numbered as a year of the decade.



So, for my engine, it is the 23rd October, 1949; which ties up nicely.
Although the engine number given by MG cannot be exactly tied to this casting, there is every chance that it is original.

[Ray White]

The battery box top needs some attention. The condition is poor and there has been some trauma in the past which has been repaired. It had all been nicely painted over by the previous owner.!

My idea is to invert the top as the underside is much better. To do this, however, required the removal of the catches which are rivetted and refit to the other side. I will need to drill some more holes and fill the other ones. Fortunately I have some 1/8" brass rivets that will suffice.

[Ray White]

The battery box lid is now painted and fitted.






My attention has turned to the fuel tank.
Someone in the distant past saw fit to cut it open. It would appear that this was sometimes done with competition cars so that a smaller tank could be installed inside the original.



This afternoon I filled the tank with water to assess it's capacity. It holds 11 gallons; it should hold 13 1/2 gallons. I can't see me doing anything about it as 11 galls. is not too bad and it won't be seen. Shame though.

[ukdave2002]

Are you going to keep the ornate tank fixing kit

Dave

[Ray White]

[Vulgalour]

That was a clever solution with the battery box lid, is it like a shoe box lid, or more of a flat sheet?

[Ray White]

[Ray White]

There are still so many small jobs to do that the delay with the new body tub is not necessarily a bad thing. One such task was painting the steering column draught excluder parts and assemble them to the rubber bellows. I was about to put the thing in upside down but my observant wife reminded me that the toe board is at an angle and the excluder was shaped to only take the steering column one way. The excluder is now correctly fitted to the toe board.


Unfortunately, I am unable to fit the steering column and connect the drag link until the body tub is fitted. There is a column support bracket that attaches to the scuttle and. the scuttle forms the front of the body tub.

[Peter_L]

Remember Ray... HTMBO... Can often be correct..

[Peter_L]

Ray... Going back to the battery box. An excellent structure. Does the interior have a non-conductive surface?. I have always had that buttock clenching feelings when I see batteries inside steel enclosures...

[Ray White]

[Ray White]

[Ray White]

As part of my intention that this TC will handle as well as possible given the limitations of the pre Was design, I have fitted a Panhard Rod.

These are designed and made by MG Guru Roger Furneaux to a high standard with adjustable rose jointed ends. By installing the rod between the leaf springs, as I have, the front axle is securely located. Having restored the springs, replaced the track rod ends and with a VW steering box conversion (yet to be fitted as explained above), the tendency for the car to hop and wander should be largely eliminated.

None of this stuff comes cheap but if the finished car is more stable I think it is worth the expense.


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[alastairq]

Very good idea...nice and neat, but, as you say, not cheap.
I'd have raided a scrap Fiesta for one of those rods....but then..that's just me?

Are you intending to do likewise with the rear axle as well? [If it doesn't already have one?]

My Dellow is panhard rodded front & rear as standard....with the front axle rod pivoting off the central spring mount.[Gives better articulation for rough surfaces....and less of a levering effect.]
_________________
Dellow Mk2, 1951 built, reg 1952.
Fiat 126 BIS
Cannon special [1996 registered. Built in 1950's]
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Ford Pop chassis, Ashley 1172 bodyshell, in pieces.

[Ray White]

The rod comes with two brackets - different each side - designd to fit the TC suspension. I couldn't make up a Panhard Rod and fixings to this standard for the £90 it cost me.

The rear axle has not come in for much criticism from other TC users other than the suspension is rather unforgiving so, no, I am not fitting a rod at the back.

On these cars the chassis passes underneath the axle - and the springs, which are new, are almost flat. I have replaced all the shackle pins and bushes and the shock absorbers are fully overhauled.