classic car forum header
Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.
 FAQFAQ   SearchSearch   MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups 
 ProfileProfile   Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages   Log inLog in 
Register     Posting Photographs     Privacy     F/book OCC Facebook     OCC on Patreon

S.U.fuel pump
Goto page Previous  1, 2
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration. Forum Index -> Electrical Restoration
Author Message
alastairq



Joined: 14 Oct 2016
Posts: 1950
Location: East Yorkshire

PostPosted: Sun May 10, 2020 8:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ray White wrote:

Maybe not quite what I had in mind but along similar lines I had considered a discretely located back up pump; not particularly for manical failure but rather as a stand by in the event of a vapour lock. On a warm day there may be higher than desirable under bonnet temperatures resulting from the supercharger and particularly the extractor manifold.
?


In respect of ''vapour lock?'' Adding a 2nd pump to an existing electric pump may not be the answer. [Adding an electric pump to support a mechanical pump, is another thing altogether]....

I may be 'preaching to the converted' here, but I can recommend a triple read of the book below...especially as it is put together by a MG TC enthusiast.

https://www.veloce.co.uk/store/Classic-Engines-Modern-Fuel-The-Problems-the-Solutions-p151478624

In it, the issues of 'hot restarting' [aka vapour lock] are scientifically investigated......and the results of tests are quite illuminating. For example, piping hot exhaust manifolds may not be the major heat source which is boiling the fuel in traffic??

Since you are departing from original by blowing, I'd suggest buying a box full of computer fans,and fitting those in suitable places, to draw cool air into the engine bay...or remove hot air ? They can be quite discreet!!

I might be tempted to alter the fuel supply system to a continuous flow type? IE, making a circuit by adding a return fuel line [of smaller bore..or with a restrictor]....so that fuel within the engine bay is constantly moving...which it doesn't do much of when idling? For the cost of a brass Tee, and a roll of extra rubber fuel pipe off ebay?
_________________
Dellow Mk2, 1951 built, reg 1952.
Fiat 126 BIS
Cannon special [1996 registered. Built in 1950's]
----------------------------------------------
Ford Pop chassis, Ashley 1172 bodyshell, in pieces.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Posts: 7117
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Sun May 10, 2020 9:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wrapping the fuel pipes in insulating material gives good protection from vapourisation.

Peter
_________________
http://www.nostalgiatech.co.uk
1939 SS Jaguar 2 1/2 litre saloon
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
alastairq



Joined: 14 Oct 2016
Posts: 1950
Location: East Yorkshire

PostPosted: Sun May 10, 2020 2:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So does re-routing them...
_________________
Dellow Mk2, 1951 built, reg 1952.
Fiat 126 BIS
Cannon special [1996 registered. Built in 1950's]
----------------------------------------------
Ford Pop chassis, Ashley 1172 bodyshell, in pieces.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6303
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2020 12:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have not read the book but I have followed Paul Ireland's regular features on this subject published in the on line magazine "Totally T Type 2" ... and very informative they are too!

This MG project is a voyage of discovery for me; venturing into what may or not be possible in terms of modifications that work. One such change is an electric fan to replace the inefficient original. I am hoping that with a clean radiator and cylinder block; new thermostat and new 6 blade water pump, further cooling will not be necessary. I always take a keen interest in how other T type owners fare and it would seem that over heating is not usually an issue if sensible precautions are taken.

Some say the more tiresome issue is one of the engine not running hot enough!
I shall have to see what mine is like when I eventually get it finished.

Today I had an email from the Morris Register spares service to say that my SU fuel pump kit is on it's way. Fortunately, the Octagon Club are also operating their spares service and I received another costly delivery this morning.

Another job on the "to do" list is replacing the copper fuel line. I am probably going to replace all the old 5/16" compression fittings with new ones but I thought 8mm olives would give a better fit on the pipe (also 8mm).

Working out how best to get from the pump to the 1 3/4" SU carburettor with a glass filter in between has been a challenge. Another issue has been deciding what air filter to get. I was horrified at the cost of A&N stuff. The best one to suit the HS6 carb is 56 - 9096 and for an MG would be over £100 from Moss. I have found the exact same thing being sold for a Nissan 240 c for £63 so have gone for that!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
alastairq



Joined: 14 Oct 2016
Posts: 1950
Location: East Yorkshire

PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2020 10:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The original fan? Surely , MG would have tested their engines with that fan and not found it wanting?
Mind, I am aware that engine temps have risen with using today's petrol.....

I have a couple of spare plastic fans for the Dellow sidevalve engine....., marked 'Stanpart', so presumed they were Trumpet Spitfire items?

The Dellow has a humongous radiator...so cooling isn't an issue....but I do think, an engine-driven fan to be more reliable than an electric fan, which doesn't have a two wire connection to one's dashboard...[and a massively huge warning light for temperature?] ....the savings in BHP surely are minimal....I'd never ever notice the difference between 55 bhp, and 57 bhp? In fact, in today's driving conditions [even with covid].....I probably never ever use more than around 25 of whatever bhp my engines make...?

One thing I would advocate making, is an effective fan shroud.

Why supercharge?

WHy did you not consider going to XPEG-spec [1500cc] instead?
_________________
Dellow Mk2, 1951 built, reg 1952.
Fiat 126 BIS
Cannon special [1996 registered. Built in 1950's]
----------------------------------------------
Ford Pop chassis, Ashley 1172 bodyshell, in pieces.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6303
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2020 6:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some people choose to modify their vehicles simply because they get bored with the standard set up while others think it looks "cool".

Almost every change I am making ( to what was a derelict car) has been thought through so that it not only has a practical purpose but can be returned to stock if desired.

The choice of an electric fan is linked to the choice of a supercharger. In standard trim, the TC looks great but has a woeful performance. I want my TC to go as well as it looks and that means improving the performance. TC 10030 has it's original engine and I felt it would be a step too far to replace it simply to get more power so I have chosen to make the most of what I have. The engine has been rebuilt by a renowned MG expert to a high spec with a supercharger and 1 3/4" SU in mind. It has been bored out +60 and has bigger (TF) valves with bronze guides. I also have a fast road cam. and everything is balanced.

As mentioned elsewhere I am fitting an exhaust vacuum crankcase pressure ventilation system which will help to prevent oil leaks and add H.P. at the same time.

An electric fan has many benefits over the standard metal fan as fitted by the MG factory. I am sure if they had fitted the TC with a blower they would have needed to improve the cooling system but cheap lightweight electric fans were probably not available in 1949.

When combined with it's 5 speed gearbox conversion and improved diff - and all the other little tweaks, my TC should be able to show a clean pair of heels to any standard TF. (XPEG 1500).

An electric fan has superior cooling which can be thermostatically controlled - (although mine will have a manual override controlled from the driving seat). There is also the benefit of far less power loss, longer water pump life and improved fuel consumption. They are also safer.

Like you, I don't really trust 70 year old metal blades to rotate at speed safely.

One of the additional instruments I shall have will be a water temperature gauge. Personally, I consider it essential but one was never fitted by Abingdon.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration. Forum Index -> Electrical Restoration All times are GMT + 1 Hour
Goto page Previous  1, 2
Page 2 of 2

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
OCC Merch link
Forum T&C


php BB powered © php BB Grp.