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Where am I going wrong?
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6304
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2020 6:23 pm    Post subject: Where am I going wrong? Reply with quote

I have fitted the new starter motor to the engine. It is an inertia type with one large terminal and a smaller one. It came with a linking "trigger" wire between the two terminals.

I have 13 volts from the battery (which is presently standing on the floor next to the chassis). The starter is supposed to be positive earth to suit the car.

I have a switch mounted on the bulkhead. It is Morris Minor type with two terminals and a spring loaded push/pull rod for use with a cable.

I don't know if I am doing something wrong but I have an insulated battery cable from the negative terminal of the battery to one terminal on the switch and another insulated cable from the other terminal to the starter terminal.

I have an earth cable from the starter mounting point to the battery positive terminal.

When I push the rod on the switch nothing happens.

What am I doing wrong, please?
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ukdave2002



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4104
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2020 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Ray

From memory I think you have installed a WOS or similar high torque stater?, are you wiring it as an inertia or pre-engaged starter? If inertia you need to link the trigger to the main feed. Assuming the link is there what you have done looks correct.

Dave
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6304
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2020 7:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ukdave2002 wrote:
Hi Ray

From memory I think you have installed a WOS or similar high torque stater?, are you wiring it as an inertia or pre-engaged starter? If inertia you need to link the trigger to the main feed. Assuming the link is there what you have done looks correct.

Dave


Yes Dave. It is a high torque starter motor. The fitting instructions say for an inertia starter they have provided a trigger wire from the main terminal to the small terminal.

One thing I am not sure about is that although the starter itself has a good earth ....whether the switch also needs to have a good earth?

I have bolted the switch to the bulkhead but the cable is not connected yet.

Both the starter and the switch are new. I am not sure what my next move should be.?
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6304
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2020 9:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a reading of 12 volts across the terminals of the switch when at rest.

I have 12v between the switch input terminal and the battery earth. but no reading between the switch output terminal and earth.

There is no reading between the starter terminal and +earth but there is 12v between the starter terminal and the - battery terminal.

Any ideas?
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MVPeters



Joined: 28 Aug 2008
Posts: 822
Location: Northern MA, USA

PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2020 4:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It all looks good to me, Ray.

If the motor armature sticks out at the back, can you turn it with your fingers or a small spanner?

I think I'd use jumper cables to connect directly from the battery to the starter motor terminal. You should get some reaction from the motor, even if it's sparks or smoke!
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Mike - MVPeters at comcast.net
2002 MINI Cooper 'S'
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ukdave2002



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4104
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2020 9:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ray White wrote:
I have a reading of 12 volts across the terminals of the switch when at rest.
If this is the switch terminals , then its correct, if its the terminals on the starter its wrong if you have wired it as an inertia starter.

I have 12v between the switch input terminal and the battery earth. but no reading between the switch output terminal and earth.
If the switch is not activated this is correct, if the switch is activated then it looks as if the switch is faulty.

There is no reading between the starter terminal and +earth but there is 12v between the starter terminal and the - battery terminal.
Correct assuming the stater switch is not activated.

Any ideas?
I'd go with Mike's suggestion and put a direct battery feed to the main starter motor terminal, if it comes to life then either the starter switch is faulty or the link wire is faulty If nothing happens then either the link is faulty or or the solenoid built in to the starter is faulty (these starters have a built in solenoid so that they can be used as a pre-engaged stater) or the armature/ brushes have a problem. If you put a direct feed to the link terminal (with the link removed) you should hear the solenoid click.

Dave
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6304
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2020 12:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Suspecting the starter motor, this morning I took it to Richard Nelson our local Auto electrician. He tested the motor and switch on his equipment and it failed. A dead short apparently.

Richard was well acquainted with 'Powerlite' and informed me that he had previously fallen out with them in a big way. There have, apparently, been quite a few failures of starters etc. and it was suggested that I could return it.

I could have exchanged the unit for a replacement but fearing a less than reliable outcome I enquired about a repair.

Richard Nelson said he had all the parts in stock and could carry out an effective repair but until he had stripped it down he couldn't say how much it would be. The switch may also have suffered some damage.

I left the starter and switch with him; confident in the knowledge that he had done excellent work for me before; ie. rebuilding the Dodge Brothers starter.

What is it about me and duff starters???
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Peter_L



Joined: 10 Apr 2008
Posts: 2680
Location: New Brunswick. Canada.

PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2020 11:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have only once seen a "Dead Short" on the actual starter motor. It doesn't need any test equipment, the smoke, sparks and smell will speak for themselves.
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ukdave2002



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4104
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2020 2:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I doubt it was a dead short for the reasons Peter gave; there would have been a lot more clues!, if it was then I'd expect the stater switch contacts to now be welded together Sad
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6304
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Fri Aug 07, 2020 6:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ukdave2002 wrote:
I doubt it was a dead short for the reasons Peter gave; there would have been a lot more clues!, if it was then I'd expect the stater switch contacts to now be welded together Sad


The starter contacts have now been repaired but on refitting the new switch it seems to have failed in the same way as the first one did.

If I take wires directly from a battery to the terminals I am getting a reading of 12 volts from both of them. I would have thought that there should only be a reading from one of them unless I depress the switch rod??
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Peter_L



Joined: 10 Apr 2008
Posts: 2680
Location: New Brunswick. Canada.

PostPosted: Fri Aug 07, 2020 6:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ray. I seriously think the time has come to get the starter motor on the bench. Check that it works, that the solenoid is throwing out the pinion. If it not trying to turn the engine you can do a quick test with some smaller cable.

The switch should be open circuit when at rest. If it is not, then the contacts are welded together. Open it up, it is likely scrap anyway.

There should be no conductivity between either terminal and the metal casing or the actuator.

The design of flywheel teeth are different for pure inertia starter pinions and the later solenoid actuated starter pinions, it is to do with the fact that in pure inertia the starter pinion has not got the solenoid assisted spring return.
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6304
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Fri Aug 07, 2020 8:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Peter_L wrote:
Ray. I seriously think the time has come to get the starter motor on the bench. Check that it works, that the solenoid is throwing out the pinion. If it not trying to turn the engine you can do a quick test with some smaller cable.

The switch should be open circuit when at rest. If it is not, then the contacts are welded together. Open it up, it is likely scrap anyway.

There should be no conductivity between either terminal and the metal casing or the actuator.

The design of flywheel teeth are different for pure inertia starter pinions and the later solenoid actuated starter pinions, it is to do with the fact that in pure inertia the starter pinion has not got the solenoid assisted spring return.


Peter. As you will remember there was a fault with this new starter motor. I chose to have it repaired by a qualified auto electrician rather than simply send it back in exchange for another motor which might well prove equally unreliable.

There was also a fault with the cable pull switch - which I have replaced.

The problem persisted so today I went back to the auto electrician who tested the starter using the correct equipment. It proved, in my presence, to be working properly.

At that time he also checked the replacement switch (photo) and also found it to be working O.K.

However, on fitting the switch to the bulkhead the nut again seemed to turn the threaded tube and from that moment the terminals both read 12 volts at rest. I think there is some way in which these reproduction cable pull switches become short circuited when fitting.

I will not open it up to find the problem because I can return both switches to Octagon Club confident that they will issue a full refund.

I am also unhappy with the battery which although initially shows 12.7 volts drops to 4.5 volts when using a proper battery tester. It needs to read 9 volts under load to be fit for purpose. This battery will be replaced with a new one if charging cannot sufficiently improve it.

I have no doubt that this high torque starter is correct for the MG TC as it is a popular choice in preference to the original Lucas starter which is both less reliable and has virtually inaccessible bolts.

It is smaller and can therefore be exchanged without having to remove the exhaust manifold (and in my case the supercharger and the steering column). It also draws much less current and gives the battery an easier life.
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Peter_L



Joined: 10 Apr 2008
Posts: 2680
Location: New Brunswick. Canada.

PostPosted: Fri Aug 07, 2020 8:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the info...
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Churchill Johnson



Joined: 11 Jan 2011
Posts: 359
Location: Rayleigh Essex

PostPosted: Fri Aug 07, 2020 10:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If your battery drops that much it's a bin job, again decent battery with jump leads would temp fix that, as for switch take leads off from it then hold them together yes will be sparks if batt ok that will soon show if motor will turn over..
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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 6304
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Fri Aug 07, 2020 11:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Churchill Johnson wrote:
If your battery drops that much it's a bin job, again decent battery with jump leads would temp fix that, as for switch take leads off from it then hold them together yes will be sparks if batt ok that will soon show if motor will turn over..


I suspected it was no good. So far I have had a faulty starter motor (now o.k.) two duff cable pull switches and a knackered battery.

...I just keep smiling and saying things like "worse things happen at sea". !
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