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Austin A40 Devon pickup
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Rick
Site Admin


Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 21781
Location: UK

PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2020 8:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good stuff, no old vehicle is complete without an ammo box IMO Smile

RJ
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Rick (OCC Admin)
Various 1920s-1960s - Austin, Morris, Commer, Dodge etc.
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Miken



Joined: 24 Dec 2012
Posts: 386

PostPosted: Tue Sep 22, 2020 7:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I made some tools to assist with static timing the engine.
These engines have no timiing marks to strobe time them and its not possible to even see the crankshaft pulley without removing either the radiator or the dynamo.
I made a close fitting bush to fit the hole in the bumper and the starting handle. I didnt need a complete timing disc so just made a sector from aluminium and engraved the relevant angles.
The manual says set to 7 or 10 degrees btdc.
The TDC gauge attaches to 2 of the cylinder head nuts using 2 strong magnets.
A bit of masking tape on the bumper and its simple.




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MVPeters



Joined: 28 Aug 2008
Posts: 756
Location: Northern MA, USA

PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2020 1:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's a slightly simpler method if the timing marks are invisible or missing, as long as you can see the crankshaft pulley.
Set the rotor to the #1 plug position on TDC - mark the pulley with chalk - start the engine & point a timing light at the pulley - note where the mark corresponds with the block,
turn the engine off & mark the block.
You now have an approximation of where TDC is - adjust the timing for best running from there.
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2002 Mini Cooper 'S'
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Keith D



Joined: 16 Oct 2008
Posts: 1020
Location: Upper Swan, Western Australia

PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2020 2:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Miken.

Remove the small egg shaped plate on the top of the clutch bell housing (inside the car) and the timing mark is clearly visible on the rear of the flywheel. It is either No 1 or 4 on TDC. You can decide which one with by valve positions.

Regarding your 'wallowing' when heavily loaded. In Australia in 1950, the roads were not as good as they are today and the A40 was notorious for it's bouncing, especially at the front. A local after market company offered a pair of telescopic shockies with the required fittings that bolted straight onto the A40. My car has these and it completely revises the handling. PM me with an email address and I can send you details etc of the metalwork that can easily be made. These mods are not visible unless you get under the car.

Keith
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1926 Chrysler 60 tourer
1932 Austin Seven RN long wheelbase box sedan
1950 Austin A40 tourer
1999 BMW Z3
Its weird being the same age as old people.
You are either part of the problem or part of the solution
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Miken



Joined: 24 Dec 2012
Posts: 386

PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2020 7:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Keith D wrote:
Miken.

Remove the small egg shaped plate on the top of the clutch bell housing (inside the car) and the timing mark is clearly visible on the rear of the flywheel. It is either No 1 or 4 on TDC. You can decide which one with by valve positions.

Regarding your 'wallowing' when heavily loaded. In Australia in 1950, the roads were not as good as they are today and the A40 was notorious for it's bouncing, especially at the front. A local after market company offered a pair of telescopic shockies with the required fittings that bolted straight onto the A40. My car has these and it completely revises the handling. PM me with an email address and I can send you details etc of the metalwork that can easily be made. These mods are not visible unless you get under the car.

Keith

Hello keith. By 1954, it seems Austin had dispensed with the inspection plate on the clutch housing. Although the 1/4 marks are still stamped on my flywheel, I have no way to see them without removing the gearbox.
My original Austin manual for this year describes setting the timing by marking the degrees on the bumper and attaching a wire pointer to the starting handlle.
I have sent you a PM. Thanks, Mike.
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Vulgalour



Joined: 08 May 2018
Posts: 306
Location: Kent

PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2020 10:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's a wonderful thing, and great to see it still earning its keep.
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Miken



Joined: 24 Dec 2012
Posts: 386

PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2020 11:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Went down to Bosham yesterday and collected this. Its a Wolseley 1500 B-series engine all complete. Its a popular mod to fit this type of engine to these veheicles. It looks very similar to the A40 engine. Dont know when or if I will fit it but it was resonably priced and a nice drive.
A couple of guys clearing out the parents garage. They remember learning to drive in this car and later Dad driving the Wolseley into the garage and removing the useful bits before the car was scrapped in the 1970's. They still had the speedo with 39000 miles on it.

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Miken



Joined: 24 Dec 2012
Posts: 386

PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2020 8:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Today I went on a bit of an adventure (for me). A 181 mile round trip (acording to the odometer on the sat nav) in the truck to pick up some 16" wheels. A good run at a constant 50-55 mph round the M25 to Kent. Amazingly there were no breakdowns or roadwork to hold me up and I drove at more or less a constant speed all the way there and back.
More importantly; I didnt break down either!
Averaged 39.35 mpg.
My 17" Avon tyres currently fitted have an outside diameter of 29" and there is not much choice among the tyres available for this size wheel.
By fitting Somerset 16" wheels, the Avon tyres go down to 26.6" O/D.
A useful reduction in diameter which I hope will stop the rubbing on bends and bumps.
This will also make the overall gearing for the Somerset diff correct as it is a bit over-geared at the moment and sometimes struggles on steep hills.





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Ray White



Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 4211
Location: Derby

PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2020 8:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I imagine if you fit that 1500 B series engine to the pick up it will be even more of a joy to drive. I think the A40 had particularly leisurely acceleration and although you don't want to go all that fast, I would imagine the improvement in performance would put a smile on your face.

Many years ago I had an Austin Cambridge with a 1500 engine and it was much more usable than the A40 with the same body. My Father in Law fitted a 1500 engine to his A40 and it made all the difference.

(If you DID want to go quickly you could always fit the twin carb set up like the Riley One Point Five.!!! Shocked )
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Penman



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4335
Location: Lancashire

PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2020 9:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi
That O/D difference will result in about 1/12 (8%) less circumference. dropping your indicated speed per revolution so if you sat nav has a speed indicator you might find it useful to note the new speeds in relation to the indicated ones on the speedo,
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Miken



Joined: 24 Dec 2012
Posts: 386

PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2020 6:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Penman wrote:
Hi
That O/D difference will result in about 1/12 (8%) less circumference. dropping your indicated speed per revolution so if you sat nav has a speed indicator you might find it useful to note the new speeds in relation to the indicated ones on the speedo,


My Speedo is reading slow,which is why I rely on the satnav speed indicator. This will improve when I change the tyres/wheels.
I also picked up a scrap Somerset Speedo yesterday from which I can use the odometer component to fit to my Devon Speedo it if still turns out to be slightly out.
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Miken



Joined: 24 Dec 2012
Posts: 386

PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2020 9:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just looked at the log i keep for my car for the last few weeks and I see that I've recorded 587 miles on the Speedo against 667 on the satnav. A quick sum shows that the smaller diameter tyres should bring the 2 figures a lot closer.
I'm assuming that the modern technology is near enough spot on for both speed and miles driven.
Is this correct?
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Miken



Joined: 24 Dec 2012
Posts: 386

PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2020 8:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am very pleased with todays work. Its made a dramatic improvement.
The background noise in the cab of my truck has become increasingly intolerable. I found out that it was missing the rubber buffers that support the rear of the bonnet and allow it to vibrate and drum badly.
There should be 2 side buffers and 4 along the top of the scuttle.
The 2 side items are a simple rectangle of rubber with a metal clamping plate. The rubber is free to slide in and out on slots to obtain the required fit.
The 4 top buffers are not available but i was given an old fossilised original item that I based these new ones on.
I fabricated the bases from bits of stainless steel sawn and filed to shape. the blocks were cut from a bit of 10mm thick rubber purchased from ebay. Cut to size with a Stanley knife.
This has resulted in a much quieter and pleasant driving experience. Should have done this weeks ago.








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Keith D



Joined: 16 Oct 2008
Posts: 1020
Location: Upper Swan, Western Australia

PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2020 2:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Miken,

The anti rattle bits are actually available in Oz.

http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/Austin%201948-52%20A40.htm

Regards - Keith
_________________
1926 Chrysler 60 tourer
1932 Austin Seven RN long wheelbase box sedan
1950 Austin A40 tourer
1999 BMW Z3
Its weird being the same age as old people.
You are either part of the problem or part of the solution
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Miken



Joined: 24 Dec 2012
Posts: 386

PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2020 6:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's interesting Keith,
Although I prefer my version as they cost virtually nuppence.
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