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Penman
Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4756 Location: Swindon, Wilts.
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Posted: Sun Apr 25, 2021 10:27 pm Post subject: |
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Hi
5 inch or 7 and a half? _________________ Bristols should always come in pairs.
Any 2 from:-
Straight 6
V8 V10 |
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Peter_L
Joined: 10 Apr 2008 Posts: 2680 Location: New Brunswick. Canada.
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Posted: Sun Apr 25, 2021 11:01 pm Post subject: |
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Marvellous ! both the Models and their Carrier. |
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Miken
Joined: 24 Dec 2012 Posts: 544
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Posted: Mon Apr 26, 2021 6:45 am Post subject: |
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Penman wrote: | Hi
5 inch or 7 and a half? |
They are 5" gauge. I did build a 7 1 /4" gauge once but it was too big and There is no track nearby. These 2 are heavy enough and are a good 2 man lift. Ive also built 6" to the foot scale traction engine which I registered and used to drive on the road but I sold that to buy the Austin. I built the green loco about 28 years ago. I must have driven it hundreds of miles and pulled thousands of passengers around Hove Park Railway over this time. |
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Miken
Joined: 24 Dec 2012 Posts: 544
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Posted: Sun May 30, 2021 9:18 pm Post subject: |
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At last the weather has warmed up and dried up. I have decided to repair the 2 remaining rusty areas on my truck on both sides of the windscreen.
I attacked the right hand side with my angle grinder and this is what i found. Its horrible.
Im not a fabricator and I dont really know the best way to tackle this job, but ive always been of the opinion that if you dont know how to do something the right way, then do it the wrong way and learn from your mistakes.
I found the first problem is knowing when to stop grinding!
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Farmer John
Joined: 18 Feb 2010 Posts: 181 Location: Manawatu NZ
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Posted: Mon May 31, 2021 3:56 am Post subject: A40 |
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Hi Mike I would like to make a suggestion or two to help with the body repair.
When replacing outer skin parts always prepare the replacement patch, whether hand formed or cut from a donor, before finally cutting out the rusty part. Use any sharp tool to discover the extent of the affected area leaving the shape unchanged and form the replacement or cut the donor part with plenty of overlap, using curves and no corners.
The important thing is to get this part ready before digging into the subframe. It is absolutely essential (to me anyway) that the various skins be "picked" apart by drilling spot welds, cutting fusion welds or removing whatever fasteners are present in each layer. Even if the piece comes out looking like a piece of frilly lace it will help you so much to form the replacement.
Use cardboard cut to the LHS curve to check your panel for accuracy, but I have an idea that you will know by the "feel" of a patch on top of a panel when it is right.
Gosh I am jumping around a bit! Once the outer patch is prepared it gets easier as the next layers are rarely complicated compound shapes, mostly pieces to be bent in the vice. They are important for strength but do not have to look pretty. If a part looks daunting think about making it in two or three pieces.
The cab corner you did turned out fine, I think you can do this OK.
Look forward to seeing your progress.
John |
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Farmer John
Joined: 18 Feb 2010 Posts: 181 Location: Manawatu NZ
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Posted: Mon May 31, 2021 4:33 am Post subject: A40 |
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Mike, I have been studying your pictures closely and I think that if you make the "u" channel in pieces short enough that the curve is minimal, that should work OK. I am presuming that the gutter flange slips between the channel and the roof flange. How are these three pieces fixed together? From the picture there does not seem to be a lot of shape in the roof area that needs replacing so that is good. |
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Miken
Joined: 24 Dec 2012 Posts: 544
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Posted: Mon May 31, 2021 5:58 am Post subject: |
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John you are correct in your assumption of the construction. The vertical door aperture folds inward horizontally along the top. The roof panel comes down then bends back horizontally and the gutter strip is sandwiched between. The 3 layers are spot welded through. I can't do this as there is no way for me to gain access. I plan on repairing the roof and door aperture from the outside. Then making and attaching the gutter afterwards.
The best part about this job is that it's at a nice convenient height to work at. |
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Farmer John
Joined: 18 Feb 2010 Posts: 181 Location: Manawatu NZ
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Posted: Mon May 31, 2021 10:14 am Post subject: A40 |
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Miken you and I might not have a spot welder but would you consider using a panel adhesive? That would make refitting the components dead simple with the added advantage of being totally watertight, strong, and very simple to clamp together. It is a legitimate repair method.
John |
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Miken
Joined: 24 Dec 2012 Posts: 544
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Posted: Mon May 31, 2021 8:34 pm Post subject: |
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I made and started to fit a repair panel today. It took flipping ages to make!
Its starts out as a sort of "Z" section that has to curve about all over the place to fit the door aperture.
Unconventionally I decided to make it from 1.5mm thick steel which is way thicker than normally used in car bodywork. Im glad I did because it allowed me to turn up the amps and apply a nice deep weld with my tig without it distorting. I could then lay into it with the grinder without fear of going through the metal. Being so thick, Its a really rigid little assembly.
I cut out all the old rusty metal and the last picture shows it in place and just held with a few small tack welds.
Ive now fully welded it and the door still closes, which is a good result.
Next job is to extend the frilly edges of the roof down to meet it.
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Peter_L
Joined: 10 Apr 2008 Posts: 2680 Location: New Brunswick. Canada.
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Posted: Mon May 31, 2021 10:01 pm Post subject: |
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Excellent work Miken,, I noticed your double threaded clamp in your photo, it took me back a good 50+ years when in 19 something-and-frozen-to-death, one would spend hours in metalwork/engineering class making the said items. Beautifully filed, absolutely square and carefully knurled grips that were then gently smoothed with emery paper.. Maybe, in a box, I may still have mine.... |
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Miken
Joined: 24 Dec 2012 Posts: 544
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Posted: Tue Jun 01, 2021 8:28 pm Post subject: |
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Today I made and tacked into place the roof and windscreen surround repair.
Just run out of argon so work has stopped temporarily.
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Miken
Joined: 24 Dec 2012 Posts: 544
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Posted: Wed Jun 09, 2021 9:38 pm Post subject: |
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This went better than I was expecting. I fully welded the various patches in. After sanding the welds flush I lead filled where there was a bit of distortion and undulation.
I fabricated the new gutter section and reinstated it.
I chased the rust down a bit further than I expected and ended up repairing this bit as well.
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petelang
Joined: 21 May 2009 Posts: 443 Location: Nottingham
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Posted: Thu Jun 10, 2021 11:07 am Post subject: |
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Lovely job. Wish I had the skills to do that sort of repair. If you feel like volunteering, I could keep you in work for a few months?
Peter _________________ Daimler Fifteen 1934
Armstrong Siddeley 15 Long 1933
Daimler V8 250 1969 |
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Miken
Joined: 24 Dec 2012 Posts: 544
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Posted: Thu Jun 10, 2021 10:24 pm Post subject: |
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petelang wrote: | If you feel like volunteering, I could keep you in work for a few months?
Peter |
Oooh! Tempting offer. But no thanks.
I've got to do the same on the other side next. |
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Bitumen Boy
Joined: 26 Jan 2012 Posts: 1735 Location: Above the snow line in old Monmouthshire
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Posted: Fri Jun 11, 2021 2:17 am Post subject: |
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That's looking really good. Nice work |
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