Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[LadyThames]

Second post here, Hi all, I am just full of questions

I have a rather rusty brake fluid container but it does not leak could I get away with repainting it or should I replace it and if so with what, ie a new plastic one off ebay or try to find an original one in better nik?

Also has anyone got an easy way of undoing the seized screw on a glass bowled petrol filter in order to lower the bowel to clean?

I've tried wd40, as much force as I'm prepared too given the proximity of the glass bowl or should I follow the old rule of if it aint broke don't fix it and continue to marvel at the way any petrol at all manages to make it's way through the years of mouldy thick looking stuff living in the filter

[Uncle Joe]

Chances are you wont be able to paint the Master Cylinder anyway, there may possibly be ingrained brake fluid on the outside. Brake fluid is a really good paint stripper....

Rust on the outside is only aesthetic anyway, the important thing is how it is on the inside.

Try immmersing the pump for a few days, WD40, Diesel usually works...

Is it a hex. nut or a knurled nut you are trying to remove?

UJ

[LadyThames]

Hi UncleJoe

Heres a picture of the nut/screw? in question:



If unscrewed it lowers down the wire arms and releases the filter bowl.

[Uncle Joe]

I'm a bit reluctant to suggest this, but after really soaking it, try to move the nut GENTLY with a pair of pliers. But be careful!!!!!

Otherwise, see if you can find another complete ''bridge'' and snip the two wires....

UJ

[Penman]

Hi
Just a thought.
Please don't think I am taking the P**s
Looking at the picture, it is oriented upside down in relation to where you are and you have to screw it onto the metal stud and away from the glass.
you haven't been trying to turn it the wrong way have you.

The other possibility could be dissimilar metal causing more than usual corrosion have you manged to get a wire brush to the visible thread, because that is the bit you have to screw the nut onto?

[LadyThames]

No Love I don't think your taking the mick

But I have to say no I haven't been turning it the wrong way

I think its just not been turned in years, the petrol in the bowl is practically jellyfied I was just trying to be a good owner and do things 'by the book' but think I will leave it alone as so far everything is still working, if it ever blocks the flow completely I shall probably have to snip the wire to release rather than risk cracking the bowl, I just wondered if anyone else had ever had the same problem and resolved it.

Thanks for your suggestions and why is it always small things that are the most nigglely!

[Rick]

it'd be worth getting a spare one in, cleaning it up and having it ready to fit on, in case this one breaks when removing it. If you leave it full of cruddy stuff, you can guarantee that it'll cause a problemo at the most inconvenient time imaginable

Rick
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[UKdave2002]

Hi

You have got to clean it, as Rick says; if you don't you will get trouble in the future.

As has been pointed out you are turning "away" from the bowl so nut much chance of the glass breaking, a bigger risk I think is that because it only has a small thread it will shear flush with the nut as you turn the nut.

I think UJ's suggestion about snipping the frame it best; you may just have to snip it in one place, get the thing off, soak it in a penatrating oil for a few day's , if it still won't budge heat the thing up (red hot) it should budge then.

Then weld or braze the cut frame .


Dave

[UKdave2002]

Regarding painting the master cylinder, and ref to UJ’s comments that it may be impregnated with brake fluid, (which it almost certainly will be) if you really want to paint it this tip may help.

In the 80’s when I was a impoverish student running a car, I took it for an MOT, it failed on rear brake balance, the inspector was an old boy who took pity on me, he removed the brake drum from the “low” side, it was immediately obvious that the brake shoes were contaminated with brake fluid, he sorted me out with a slave cylinder seal set for £2 and told me to remove the contaminated shoes, boil them in water for 30 mins and then refit them (after having put the new seals in the slave cylinder), this I did, took it back for the free re-test which it passed.

He explained to me that it was an old trick, brake fluid is hydroscopic i.e. it absorbs water, boiling the contaminated shoes takes enough of the the brake fluid out of the shoe replaces it with water which evaporates, he qualified this repair by saying he would only do this on rear shoes (unless he was desperate!!).

If you want to paint your master cylinder, this may be an approach to remove the impregnated brake fluid, although as you will have to rebuild you master cylinder after boiling it, it s probably not worth the effort !!

Dave

[Rick]

If you find that you need any 400E parts, drop me a line as I was speaking to a fella that seems to have quite a stock of bits the other week

Rick
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[UKdave2002]

There is a fuel filter in eBay looks simiular;

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/austin-morris-zenith-fuel-filter_W0QQitemZ220135708391QQihZ012QQcategoryZ9903QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[LadyThames]

Did as suggested, got replacement off ebay and snipped the wire, now I have a spare bowl in case the other ever gets broken and a lovely clean fuel filter that I don't have to fret over

Thanks for the offer Rick if I can think of anything I may need I'll let you know.